OK Here you go guys, I have been making Tip Downs for years and this is the latest and greatest. Lots of people using the PVC ones but personally I like the wooden ones much better. The poles sit closer to the ice so the wind affects the line less, they are cheap to make from scrap lumber. We use oak so that they last a long time. Here are the instructions and a link to pics on Photobucket. If you have any questions feel free to email me at [email protected] or call me at 715-379-2376
http://s947.photobucket.com/albums/ad317/cmherrmann/Tip%20downs/
Tips:
1. Clean the holes regularly when it is cold enough to freeze them shut.
2. When you clean the holes either lift the line up about a foot real slow and then back down or tip the pole into the down position slowly and back up. This will quite often be just enough movement to trigger a fish to bite. I catch 50% of my fish right after cleaning the holes and doing this. If it is warm enough that the holes do not freeze still go around every 10 minutes or so and move the minnow.
3. When setting the depth hook a depth weight on the line and lower it to the bottom, when it is on the bottom and the pole tip is roughly even with the ice this is the correct depth to put the pin in the reel. Reel up the line and remove the depth weight, hook on a minnow and lower it back down. When the pole is in the stand this should keep the minnow about 1.5 to 2 feet off the bottom.
4. When a fish starts tipping the pole down get there as quickly as possible, once the pole hits the bottom they will spit the minnow if they feel too much resistance. Lift the pole off the stand and put the rod tip right down to the water. This is where it is difficult to figure out when to set the hook. If I get there before it gets tipped all the way down I will lift the pole and put the tip down to the water and wait a couple of seconds and then lift the pole real slow. If you get to pole after it is all way down lift the pole right away and feel for the fish by lifting real slow. You will feel the fish as you lift, now set the hook but do not give it a big jerk use more of a little jerk or just a nice lift. If you set it too hard it will rip the Crappies mouth. Once you set the hook lightly set the pole down and hand line the fish in. If it is a big Crappie get down on your knees and slip one hand under the fish and lift it out of the water with the line and your free hand. Once the weight of a big Crappie comes out of the water it will rip the hook out of it’s mouth. When you get to the pole and lifting there is nothing there set it back in the stand, a lot of times the fish will bite again right away. Also check your minnows every once in a while sometimes they will get off or get stolen. After using the tip downs for a while you will be able to tell if the minnow is still on the line or not just by lifting it and feeling the weight.
5. Try to keep fresh lively minnows on, if a minnow has been on for a long time without a bite it might need to be replaced or maybe move that tip down to a new hole. Sometimes moving a tip down 5 or 10 feet will make a big difference.
6. If it is windy you may need to face the tip down into the wind so that it has to tip toward the wind or you could get false tips. Tip downs will generally out fish jigging 4 or more to 1. If you have any questions feel free to email or call me, if there is fishable ice and it’s a weekend I will be on the ice so feel free to call.
[email protected]
715-379-2376 Cell
Charlie Herrmann
One of the key things that we found was where to screw the top brace that is just below the pole. This brace actually holds the pole at the desired angle according to it’s height on the upright, we found about 1″ from the top worked for us. You can also tilt the upright at any angle to fine tune how easy the rod will tip down. You want it to tip down with very little resistance. Sometimes if it is windy you will need to pack ice shavings or snow on the base and point the pole into the wind or you will be chasing false tipdowns. We also glued our braces once we figured out the best placement, they are as solid as a rock. Almost forgot, you need to cut grooves in the top of the upright for the pole to rest in, I use aluminum ties for chain link fence for the rod that goes through the fish pole handle. Drill a hole in the handle of the pole so that the aluminum rod fits snug in it. The aluminum is easy to bend if needed for fine adjustments.
All that is needed is the listed below. We used scrap wood, so it only cost us about $1.00 for the nuts, bolts, and glue for each one, the jig pole is the most expensive part which you can buy from sportsmansguide.com or most sporting goods shops for $9.00
2 – 1″ square by 18″ long pieces of hardwood This will make up the base
2 – 1″ square by 16″ long pieces of hardwood This will make up the upright portion
3 – 5 1/2″ by 2″ by 1/4″ thick pieces of pressed board used to hold the base and the upright together, 2 go on the base and one on the upright.
2 – 2 1/4 ” by 3/16 carriage bolts and 2 – 3/16 wing nuts, these are used to bolt the base and upright together, Wing nuts go on the inside to make them more compact.
12 – small wood screws to screw the pressed board to the base and uprights.
1 – piece of 4-5 ft. nylon string to tie the pole to the base so the pole doesn’t get pulled down the hole by a Walleye or Northern.
1 – 4″ piece of aluminum chain link fence tie for the rod that goes through the handle.