“Summerizing” your Ice Equipement

The following are instructions straight out of the service manuals for storage of your ice equipment. On the electronics, where there are no manufacturer suggestions on storage, it is always a good idea to disconnect the battery, store in a dry cool (not cold) place, and recharge every couple of months. Comments and suggestions are welcome.

Flashers

Marcum LX-3, LX-3tc, LX-5

It is recommended that you disconnect the Digital Charging System from the battery during extended periods of non-use. The LCD display will draw a small amount of power needed to activate the display and may discharge the battery over long periods of non-use or storage.

Marcum LX2, LX1

To extend the battery life, it is preferable to recharge the battery after every use.

Vexilar

A battery should be stored, fully charged and disconnected, in a cool place. Charge it every month or two when in storage to make sure it maintains a full charge.

Cameras

Aquaview

Recharging is recommended after every use. When not in use, recharge every six months.

Store battery between 30 and 70 degrees F. Service life is shortened by temperatures above

85 degrees F and below 0 degrees F.

Charge battery according to proper procedures. Continuous overcharging or under-charging is detrimental.

Marcum 400 and up

Recharging the battery after every use is recommended. As a general rule of thumb,

charge the battery for twice the amount of time as it was used. The charger incorporates a Charge Alert feature to alert the user to when the battery reaches full capacity. This is accomplished when the green LED light shuts off on the face of the charger. The charger does not shut off automatically but will output a trickle charge indefinitely. It is recommended, however, that the charger be disconnected from the monitor when the Charge Alert green LED is no longer on. It’s recommended that you remove the battery door while charging to allow for increased air ventilation through out the battery compartment.

Marcum 250 and 350

Do not leave the charger on for longer periods than needed. Although the charger is low output, it can still damage the battery if left on for extended periods of time after charge cycle is complete.

Augers

Strikemaster:

2 HP

DRAIN FUEL INTO APPROVED CONTAINER OUTDOORS,

AWAY FROM OPEN FLAME. BE SURE ENGINE IS COOL.

DO NOT SMOKE.

B. Run engine until fuel tank is empty and engine stops

due to lack of fuel.

NOTE: If “Gasohol” has been used, complete above

instructions and then put 1/2 pint of gasoline

properly mixed with oil per FUEL MIX CHART on

Page 1 into fuel tank and repeat above

instructions.

NOTE: Tecumseh Gasoline Stabilizer is an acceptable

alternative in minimizing the formation of fuel

gum deposits during storage. Add stabilizer to

gasoline in fuel tank or storage container.

Always follow mix ration found on stabilizer

container. Run engine at least 10 minutes after

adding stabilizer to allow it to reach carburetor.

CYLINDER BORE:

A. Pull starter handle slowly until resistance is felt due to

compression pressure, then stop.

B. Release starter tension slowly to prevent engine from

reversing due to compression pressure. The position

will close both the intake and exhaust ports to prevent

corrosion of the piston and cylinder bore.

CLEAN ENGINE:

Remove any clippings, dirt, or chaff from exterior of engine

Strikelite

DISCHARGE FUEL (NO SMOKING)

In case the engine is not going to be used for more than one

month, discharge fuel thoroughly from fuel tank and

carburetor to prevent hard starting and/or poor engine

operation due to deteriorated fuel.

• Pour out the fuel in the tank from its filler neck.

• Push the primer pump of the carburetor until the fuel in it is

thoroughly discharged.

ENGINE OIL

Change crankcase oil before the start of every season.

• Change the engine oil with fresh oil.

• Remove the spark plug, pour about 2 cc (about 4 drops)

engine oil into the cylinder, slowly pull the starter handle of

the recoil starter 2 or 3 times, and tighten the spark plug.

CLEAN AND STORE

• Slowly pull the recoil starter handle until resistance is felt,

and leave it in that position.

• Clean the engine thoroughly with an oiled cloth, put the

cover on and store the engine indoors in well ventilated, low

humidity area.

3HP

NEVER STORE ENGINE WITH FUEL IN TANK INDOORS

OR IN ENCLOSED, POORLY VENTILATED AREAS,

WHERE FUEL FUMES MAY REACH AN OPEN FLAME,

SPARK OR PILOT LIGHT AS ON A FURNACE, WATER

HEATER, CLOTHES DRYER OR OTHER GAS APPLIANCE.

IF ENGINE IS TO BE UNUSED FOR 30 DAYS OR MORE,

PREPARE AS FOLLOWS:

DRAIN FUEL SYSTEM:

A. Remove all fuel from carburetor and fuel tank to

prevent gum deposits from forming on these parts

and causing possible malfunction of engine.

DRAIN FUEL INTO APPROVED CONTAINER

OUTDOORS, AWAY FROM OPEN FLAME. BE SURE

ENGINE IS COOL. DO NOT SMOKE.

B. Run engine until fuel tank is empty and engine stops

due to lack of fuel.

NOTE: If “Gasohol” has been used, complete above

instructions and then put 1/2 pint of gasoline

properly mixed with oil per FUEL MIX CHART on

Page 1 into fuel tank and repeat above

instructions.

NOTE: Tecumseh SMART STARTTM gasoline

preservative and stabilizers are an acceptable

alternative in minimizing the formation of fuel

gum deposits during storage. Add stabilizer to

gasoline in fuel tank or storage container. Run

engine at least 10 minutes after adding stabilizer

to allow it to reach the carburetor.

CYLINDER BORE:

A. Pull starter handle slowly until resistance is felt due

to compression pressure, then stop.

B. Release starter tension slowly to prevent engine from

reversing due to compression pressure. This position

will close both the intake and exhaust ports to

prevent corrosion of the piston and cylinder bore.

CLEAN ENGINE:

Remove any clippings, dirt, or chaff from exterior of

engine.

Jiffy

30 & 70 Series

1. Disconnect spark plug wire from spark plug and keep it away from spark plug.

2. Make sure all fuel is drained from fuel tank, fuel cap is screwed on tight, and screw vent on cap is tightly closed.

3. Always transport and store powerhead in an upright position and make sure powerhead and drill assembly are properly anchored to prevent damage.

4. Never store powerhead with fuel in tank indoors or in enclosed, poorly ventilated enclosures, where fuel fumes may reach an open flame, spark or pilot light as on a furnace, water heater, clothes dryer, etc.

Thanks for the leg-work

Great info and I’m sure it will be brought ttt more than once

Dave~
Are you trying to rush into summer?

oh come on, I think summerizing my LX3 is putting it on the bow of the boat, I feel naked fishing without it, we’ll see I have a new graph for the front, but I may end up with the lx3 up there again.

lol, not rushing into summer. Just thought I would put that out there for those with a need to know considering that, with or without my help, the ice season will soon be coming to a close.

And, Nick, I already have a spot picked out in my boat for my LX-5!

I left my lx-3 plugged in to the digital readout last year with a brand new battery..attempted to charge it at the begining of this year and no luck…it discharged the battery totally and was no longer able to take a charge…wont do that again…thanks for the info…where were you last year …Rat

lol… That digitial system is nice.. but it does drain the battery. Very slowly… but over the period of months, it does cause some problems. Sorry I wasn’t there for you RVRAT!

Thanks for reminders

Jim

><(((>

Thanks Dave- Very helpful information.

John

Dave~
I will be looking forward to your next instructions for how to winterize our boats lets say mid June…
Sorry I am just to wrapped up in this ice fishing yet to give it up..I can’t wait for open water but I have worked hard this winter on setting myself up with the right equipment and now we are on a downward spiral to the end of it..

Glenn… I don’t think you want to ask me about that.

Last fall.. My fiance’s son used the boat last. Didn’t pull the plug out and parked it in our backyard. When I went to take it to get winterized (it is an I/O and I am far from being a mechanic even to do this work)… the boat was filled with water from rain.. up to the floor. had to drain that for a day.. and then had to fly out to seattle and was stuck at work after that. We had an “unexpected” freeze… and I ended up having to bring it to Crystal Peirz (?sp) to check it out for cracks. They did not find any cracks and the frost plugs were pushed out a little ways. couldn’t check for water in the oil… so will have to do that in the spring. I think I will be winterizing that boat come August. And locking it up!

That is the best way of keeping it in good shape LOCK IT UP!!
I just landed another deal on another boat the other day. I lost one and gained one..
I am down to three boats for the upcoming year..
Last year had five at one time..
Don’t ask why, I see a deal and I move on them and then I get all confused on which boat to use..

Jiffy checklist looks light. Odd none of these recommend fogging. I can’t imagine not fogging. Especially when its so easy on such a small accessible motor. Personally I stabilize fuel, run it until stab fuel is being burned, drain tank then run engine dry. Fog. Coat all metal parts in oil or silicone. I have heard that carb gaskets can dry out without gas in carb but I have not personally seen it.

I am sure there are many other things you can do like fogging. The above recommendations are off of the user manuals and site instructions only. That is why I said questions and comments welcome

I just looked and my Jiffy Stealth operator manual does go into detail about fogging for storage. It’s actually a Tecumseh guide that came with the unit.

Thanks for the info. Obviously, there is no way I could have the “actual” manual that comes in the packaging. The information I was providing is off of the websites. Again, thanks for the info

This was my first serious year- what about portable storage? I have a Clam 5600.

My personal suggestion of a portable is to clean out as best as possible. Make sure it is dry. Then shrinkwrap it (or other plastic wrap). Keep it up off the floor to prevent mold and mice infection. Mice can climb too, so do your best to keep it in a place that would be least affected. If your canvas comes off, I would highly recommend removing it and bringing it indoors. That would be the best protection for the canvas. The suitcase and poles should be fine once stored safely away.

Post deleted by ecnook

I did NOT do anything with my power auger after last years season…and paid for it Nothing major, but my fuel line was plugged with a little bit of gunk. Once I got that cleaned, it purrs like a kitten.
As far as portables, I do as Dave mentioned above. When I had the Otter, I took the canvas off and stored it inside. For the Fish Traps, that option isn’t optimal since you screw the fabric to the sled. But, I keep the cover on and store it up off the floor. I am in an area right next to the woods full of mice, but they didn’t get my fabric

Any jiffy owners out there always store their powerhead in an upright, secured position???

U gotta be kidding me!! , wait a minute,