Need Help with jigging for walleyes

As long as I’ve been ice fishing I’ve used the same technique. Put a jig or hook under a bobber and wait. This year I’ve decided to concentrate on jigging for walleyes, but haven’t had a single bite all year. What is the best way to jig for walleyes? Currently, I’m jigging the bait about 2-3 feet of the bottom and raising it up with some pretty aggressive movements followed by a pause. Am I doing this right? Any advice on this topic will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

If you have cable or DSL here is a video with IDO Pro Staffer Scott Steil showing how to do just what you’re asking about… how to turn walleye “lookers” into biters when jigging.

http://www.in-depthangling.com/forum/video/web_clips/steil_flasher1/steil_flasher1.html

Or just click on the video player below.

Now that is what I call service.

Very nice feature Mr. Holst!

If you can check out the video that James is talking about then do so.

It all depends on what time of the year you are talking about jigging for walleyes. You can vertical jig which it sounds like you have been doing. I do this when fishing in the winter months in water from 10 ft. to 30’+ deep. However I let my jig go all the way to the bottom and usually only jig it 2 to 4 inches off of the bottom letting it fall back to the bottom between lifts. Another key for vertical jigging is to use as light of a jig as possible and still be in control. A good jig weight to start at for vertical jigging in the Mississippi is 5/16 oz if you can find them. If you cannot feel the bottom then you need a heavier jig. Try the stand-up (Erie) jigs because they will hold the plastic up off of the bottom when the jig is on the bottom. The Erie jigs are much better for vertical jigging than are round head jigs. Some people call them shovel jigs. During the winter months walleye will not exert themselves any more than they have to so if you are holding your jig 3 feet off of the bottom they may not expend the energy to swim up to get it. The same holds true for saugers. You can also pitch jigs on wingdams and other underwater structure during the winter months. If you do this position your boat above the structure and pitch to the top of the structure working the jig ever so slowly down the face of said structure. Slow is the key here because once again the fish aren’t going to chase it very far. You will again want to use as light weight of a jig as possible for pitching. Round head jigs work the best for pitching. For saugers use a stinger hook with your plastics as they tend to bite short. For walleyes you shouldn’t need the stingers as they usually inhale the jigs. Good luck and don’t get discouraged. You’ll figure it out. Nothing beats time spent on the water.

Eyehunter

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If you can check out the video that James is talking about then do so.

It all depends on what time of the year you are talking about jigging for walleyes. You can vertical jig which it sounds like you have been doing. I do this when fishing in the winter months in water from 10 ft. to 30’+ deep. However I let my jig go all the way to the bottom and usually only jig it 2 to 4 inches off of the bottom letting it fall back to the bottom between lifts. Another key for vertical jigging is to use as light of a jig as possible and still be in control. A good jig weight to start at for vertical jigging in the Mississippi is 5/16 oz if you can find them. If you cannot feel the bottom then you need a heavier jig. Try the stand-up (Erie) jigs because they will hold the plastic up off of the bottom when the jig is on the bottom. The Erie jigs are much better for vertical jigging than are round head jigs. Some people call them shovel jigs. During the winter months walleye will not exert themselves any more than they have to so if you are holding your jig 3 feet off of the bottom they may not expend the energy to swim up to get it. The same holds true for saugers. You can also pitch jigs on wingdams and other underwater structure during the winter months. If you do this position your boat above the structure and pitch to the top of the structure working the jig ever so slowly down the face of said structure. Slow is the key here because once again the fish aren’t going to chase it very far. You will again want to use as light weight of a jig as possible for pitching. Round head jigs work the best for pitching. For saugers use a stinger hook with your plastics as they tend to bite short. For walleyes you shouldn’t need the stingers as they usually inhale the jigs. Good luck and don’t get discouraged. You’ll figure it out. Nothing beats time spent on the water.

Eyehunter

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I think he’s talking about ice fishing in lakes. Could be wrong. If he is then some of the info about pitching jigs and wing dams is going to be a little confusing.

Thanks James. I caught that he was talking about ice fishing after the fact. Maybe I’d better pay closer attention to what I think I’m reading. Cudos on the videos. I wish we could view them down here on the tube.

Eyehunter

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Thanks James. I caught that he was talking about ice fishing after the fact. Maybe I’d better pay closer attention to what I think I’m reading.
Eyehunter

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You shared good info. Someone will make good use of it.

And about those videos… time to get a high speed connection my good man! This site, and others, will be putting out more and more of our content in video format.

I always bounce my jig minnow, rapala, pimple, or whatever into the bottom when I am walleye ice fishing. Perch will hide down in the sand, especially right at sundown. Bouncing your lure into the bottom a little bit stirring up the bottom really works for walleye. Quite often if you lay your lure on the bottom for a few seconds there will be a walleye sucking on it when you go to lift it up. The first thing is ask around at bait shops and such for an active lake.

And about those videos… time to get a high speed connection my good man! This site, and others, will be putting out more and more of our content in video format.

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James,

We have high speed here in the office. However viewing fishing videos in the office is something that will have to wait until after hours.

Eyehunter

Understood!

What a great example of a great thread

The video rocked

I’d further like to add this thread Good Thread

Thanks for all of the info guys. The video was awesome!! I’m heading out this weekend and now feel a way more confident in jigging. This site is the best out there

I keep my jigging pretty simple for walleyes. I learned a lot by watching a flasher over time. Its very important to pay attention to what the fish want, and how they are reacting to what you are doing. The pause is just as important as the jigging many days. I have days where I cant hold still enough and I will set the rod down to watch the fish come up and strike. Other days the fish will keep chasing the jig around and could hit at any time. 95% of the time the fish will be under your jig and come up to attack your jig(what it appears like on the flasher). *Coming up* can be 6″, and it can be 5 feet depending on the mood of the fish that day.

I cant stress enough how important it is to have a couple different types of jigging spoons laying around, and switch up if the fish are showing up and wont bite. Some days it takes a heavier spoon to get that quicker drop and it will turn the fish on, other days the lighter, flutter type spoons will work better with the slower fall.

Keeping the jigging simple works best. Bounce the bait off the bottom once in a while, pull it up a foot and jig it 12″-18″ a few times.. let it pause, raise it a little and jig it again… pause, bounce it off the bottom. When I get a fish on the flasher, my jigging becomes more subtle, and I try to get the fish to come up to me, rather than drop down to it. When the fish starts to com up I pause the bait. If the fish comes up to it and doesnt hit it in a few seconds, I will jig it lightly once (just a few inches), then if it doesnt bite I will raise it slowly away, and jig slightly more agressivey if I make it a foot over the fish to try to get the fish to chase it further.

Its like a game of cat and mouse.

If you dont have a flasher, keep in mind constantly NOT to over jig your lure. A few pumps of the rod is all it takes, bounce the bait off the bottom once in a while, and be sure to pause frequently. Dont put the rod down and get burnt out on jigging. If a bait is stationary for too long, they fish will shy away from it most of the time unless it has a live minnow on it.

Any advice on Salmo Darters out there? Swivel-no swivel, etc., I paid $7.50 for that thing and want to catch at least one fish with it.

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Any advice on Salmo Darters out there? Swivel-no swivel, etc., I paid $7.50 for that thing and want to catch at least one fish with it.

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I use chubby darters but add a split ring to them and find it gives them a better wobble . I know they are pricey and here they cost me 10 bucks a pop plus tax but they treat me well and there is a reason I keep atleast ten in my tackle box at any one time . With the chubby I just do slow lifts and follow them back down on a tight line or hop them with a jiggle .

At times when the eyes are really finicky and just looking I take the belly hook off and add a 4-6 inch dropper and hook a minnow tail on and just slowly lift and drop maintaining a constant tightline . The glow and firetiger perch seem to be the hot ones for me and also testing different sizes .

TD