Here’s a few pics from what I like. You’ll get various opinions…so figure out what’s best for you.
I have all my 40-41″ noodles built exactly the same. 8″ handles. I like a thicker handle, so i don’t wrasp and sand them down as much as “standard”. I found leaving them a bit thicker they don’t flex or bend as much. long term I have much less cork cracking in the handle.
I built them to be extremely light. The more wraps you have, heavier guides, and more expoxy the less sensitivity you have.
I went with American Tackle BSFG Fly Guides – single foot. This is where a Ford Vs. Chevy argument usually kicks in. Previously, I had been using HTRLF Ring Lock Fly Guides from American tackle. Fantastic guides, but for me they were an over kill. Not only in price (avg over $5.00 each), but in performance. If I were building flyrods for chinooks, no question I would use the HTRLF Ring Lock for the abuse of 150 yrd runs. But since I never had a crappie or gill spool me out even 10 yrds yet, i found the performance of the stainles steel has been perfect for my ice needs. Also, the BSFG are lighter!
For tips, I went with Pacific Bay BFTL Fly Tops. These are an extra large loop and often associated with saltwater rods. I generally don’t care much for many of the Pacific Bay products, but these tips have held up for many years for me. I also prefer the larger loop when hole hopping and dealing with ice-up. They are a little more forgiving.
DO NOT USE SNAKE GUIDES – YOU WILL HATE THEM.
I’m not partial to any manufacture of thread. If your just starting, i suggest you start with size C. Size A is very fine and for some people will take a little learning curve with it. I have these wrapped with metallic which is about a size C.
Pro Kote is the finish I use. Looking back at rods i built in the 80’s still have a nice clear coat. Some of the other brands that I have used have yellowed over time. Regardless of any brand you use, buy the slowest setting epoxy. Fast set epoxies will dry stiff and be much more brittle. You want a very thin coat that just covers your wraps and extends a 1/16 to 1/8″ over onto the blank. Anything more is just adding weight where you don’t want it.
IF, you incorrectly mix your epoxy with not enough hardner and it stays tacky after 24 hours, no need to panic. Just mix a new batch with a little extra hardener and re-coat. I’ve had a few over the years that I had to do that on and it still finishes beautifully.
Mudhole.com has become a huge player in the web stores. Their prices are about par for most items. I find some things cheaper and more expensive elsewhere. But i also have a few local sources here too.
Shoot me a PM if you want a guide spacing to use as a starting point. I’m a huge fan of the Angle Method for guide spacing. However, I always tape my guides on, put a reel on, and play with it to maximize what I want them to achieve. In this case, I reduced guides and manipulated the action a little.
Welcome to the world of DIY!!! 
