Auger question

I had my strikemaster 2.5 hp solo bind up and get stuck at the bottom of the hole today and had to use a chisel to get it out. The second and third picture show what I found after chiseling it out. I don’t know if the weld broke and that is what caused it to bind and get stuck or if it broke because of it getting stuck. Now the question is do I have it rewelded and run with my now bent shaft or is it possible to have it straightened somewhere? Anyone know the price for a new 8″ lazer bit? I’m glad it didn’t get my wrist worse then it did when it stuck.

Ouch…looks like your going to need a new bottom half.

That is what I get for thinking I haven’t broke much gear this year.

Do you think you could just cut part of the flyt off. I would cut it just past the last good weld.

Is the auger shaft actually bent? Or is the damage just that vane that broke the weld and came from the central shaft?

If the shaft is bent, I’d say it has to be replaced or straightened as I’d think running out of true is going to cause it to bind as it moves down the hole.

If it’s just that vane is broken away, I’d be tempted to get the angle grinder out, cut away the bad piece, reshape the end with a grinding wheel, and keep using it.

Grouse

put it on e-bay

As far as the shaft being bent I am not positive. It feels bent while drilling but you can not see a wobble while spinning it in the air.

It could just be off balance from the hunk of metal hanging off the shaft. I’d cut it like already suggested. Cut it off and grind it down. If you know anybody that works in a metal shop it would be a 5 minute fix.

To answer your question, lazer bits are typically around the $150 mark if you can find an 8″, they are usually sold out this time of year.

Quote:

---

As far as the shaft being bent I am not positive. It feels bent while drilling but you can not see a wobble while spinning it in the air.

---

Check and make sure the screw that holds the auger bit on is tight. If its loose it can make the auger wabble while drilling.
Wallster ><((((>

Drock had them listed on his site. Was thinking about getting a 6″ for my auger.

Bad weekend for augers. Sounds like the neighbor stripped out the gears on his. Motor runs but auger will not spin.

Quote:

---

Drock had them listed on his site. Was thinking about getting a 6″ for my auger.

Bad weekend for augers. Sounds like the neighbor stripped out the gears on his. Motor runs but auger will not spin.

---

Amazon had 5, 6, 7, and 10″ lazer bits last time I looked. Might be out of 6 now though. I might have to get a 6″ next year, using way too much gas drilling 8″ holes for panfish on days I have to drill 40+ holes.

Bad weekend for sure, I thought I blew up my eskimo on sat. Got done drilling a hole and just happened to look under the powerhead and saw a big bead of oil. After further inspection I realized that it was carbonized had come from the exhaust screw (loose) when I had the auger inside the night before to thaw.

Quote:

---

Drock had them listed on his site. Was thinking about getting a 6″ for my auger.

Bad weekend for augers. Sounds like the neighbor stripped out the gears on his. Motor runs but auger will not spin.

---

clutch or key, unless its those crappy plastic (oops I mean nylon) gears then it could be the gear.

I was told one time if you are drilling though several feet of ice that you should blow the shaving out of the hole. Then finish drilling the rest of the way. The shaving will actual pack hard at the top of the hole. That may of cause your problem. Maybe!!

Looks like you need an extention for one thing. I would say you probably did that chipping it out and the reason it got stuck is because you got part way through the bottom when the auger bottomed out on the top of the ice.

I would try as others said make sure the bolt is tight and cut off the flight with an angle grinder and test it out, just make sure you stop before you get that close to the ice or get an extention.

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Drock had them listed on his site. Was thinking about getting a 6″ for my auger.

Kevin I don’t think it would be worth the effort going to 6″. The mpg vs the auger cost wouldn’t compute.

You are probably right. But right now I’m having to carry extra gas with me because I can only fill the auger 2/3 full or it will leak in the SUV, and I can only get about 40 holes through 18″ with 2/3 tank. That mako is a gas hog.

I can add my Strikemaster Solo to the list of @#$*& up augers from the weekend. Mine is also starting fine but it won’t spin and it sounds like something is broke off in the fly wheel, making a big clunking noise. I don’t get it. I baby the damn thing and I still have issues after only three years. Keep it in the basement, put it in the back seat of my truck when driving on the ice. Are those hard plastic cases that go over the shaft and the blade worth it?
I see Farm and Fleet is an authorized repair center in La Crosse for Strikemaster. Any feedback from guys that have used them?

New drills are not that expensive, probably getting cheaper as we speak because most small places don’t want to hold them over the summer.

Quote:

---

New drills are not that expensive, probably getting cheaper as we speak because most small places don’t want to hold them over the summer.

---

They are cheaper then I thought but I have been unable to track down a 8″ yet. I found a 7″ for 119$.

would definitley try cutting vane and making sure bolt tight before buying new one. not going to make anything worse on it.

Drock got the neighbors fixed up in a couple of days. Sounds like he stripped a gear on it or something and it was a pretty easy fix.