I’ve never fished with Thorne or TUC rods, so I can’t tell you what their actions or blanks are like. But of all the rods I build, I have found that there isn’t a perfect one-rod-fits-all for blades & spoons. I fish 1/4 through 1/2oz but often want the flexibility of changing over to lippless crank, jig rap, or spoon without needing to swap rods.
In my world, anything shorter than 30-32″ is worthless. The blank is a lever or machine, and the sensitivity and action of the blade is all dictated by how the blank carries the load. I look for a blank that will show just a slight load of the tip section – maybe the last 3″ or 4″ without showing any signs of loading the mid-section of the blank.
From there, if I’m lifting a blade just enough to have it vibrating, I should see the mid section just starting to have a load without bending into a distinct arc.
The “arc’ that the blank should have will be enough to distinctly show a relaxed position as soon as any load is removed – fish hitting a blade while falling.
One other factor you may find that you want a faster tip or softer tip is how much current your fishing in. When ice conditions are favorable, I try to get up to the Miss and run wing dams (flats behind them). The amount of current varies to each one, and has an affect on the feel from my rods.
In faster current, I like a faster tip, but a softer mid section. You maintain perfect feel of everything the blade is doing, but don’t have a broom stick for wrenching fish up. You also transfer more energy to the blade with less movement. Getting the blade to vibrate without jerking it up 3 feet. I see a lot of guys using too soft of a tip section and their rods almost look like they are bent into a “C” while jigging. These are the guys over-working their baits and I also see them missing a lot of fish.
Awesome Response Randy!
Quote:
I’ve never fished with Thorne or TUC rods, so I can’t tell you what their actions or blanks are like. But of all the rods I build, I have found that there isn’t a perfect one-rod-fits-all for blades & spoons. I fish 1/4 through 1/2oz but often want the flexibility of changing over to lippless crank, jig rap, or spoon without needing to swap rods.
In my world, anything shorter than 30-32″ is worthless. The blank is a lever or machine, and the sensitivity and action of the blade is all dictated by how the blank carries the load. I look for a blank that will show just a slight load of the tip section – maybe the last 3″ or 4″ without showing any signs of loading the mid-section of the blank.
From there, if I’m lifting a blade just enough to have it vibrating, I should see the mid section just starting to have a load without bending into a distinct arc.
The “arc’ that the blank should have will be enough to distinctly show a relaxed position as soon as any load is removed – fish hitting a blade while falling.
One other factor you may find that you want a faster tip or softer tip is how much current your fishing in. When ice conditions are favorable, I try to get up to the Miss and run wing dams (flats behind them). The amount of current varies to each one, and has an affect on the feel from my rods.
In faster current, I like a faster tip, but a softer mid section. You maintain perfect feel of everything the blade is doing, but don’t have a broom stick for wrenching fish up. You also transfer more energy to the blade with less movement. Getting the blade to vibrate without jerking it up 3 feet. I see a lot of guys using too soft of a tip section and their rods almost look like they are bent into a “C” while jigging. These are the guys over-working their baits and I also see them missing a lot of fish.
Right-on Randy, that’s a response from someone who knows what he’s talking about.
The only thing I could add is from the rods bottoms describes, I prefer the TUCR Power Precision and TB Med Heavy Walleye sweetheart. The problem with that med-heavy TB rod for that application is that it’s a broomstick. Fishes the blade well, and you have ultimate control over it, but it’s pretty darned heavy throughout the rest of the blank. Think Lake Trout or Pike rod and that’s what you’ve got. In a 36″ length I see it being a much better rod thought I’ve never fished it in that length.
As for the TUCR offerings, I’m a big fan of that power precision in either 32″ or 36″ and that’s what I’m using now. I’m testing a TUCR Quicktip minus 2 (2 inches chopped off the end) for blades and will let you know what I find out.
Good luck!
Joel
Joel, too bad not all rods are for sale with the Dean sales methodology. “here, take it and fish for the day and buy it when you come back” 
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Joel, too bad not all rods are for sale with the Dean sales methodology. “here, take it and fish for the day and buy it when you come back”
No doubt, talk about being able to dial it in. The try-it-before-you-buy-it deal would be awesome, and dangerous. I’d probably own 1 1/2 times the rods I own now!
Joel
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Joel, too bad not all rods are for sale with the Dean sales methodology. “here, take it and fish for the day and buy it when you come back”
I have done that for more than a few customers, and you know they never come back and hand the rod over.
Thanks Randy & Joel for your input. I’ve caught a ton of eyes using Thornebros. 32″ sweetheart walleye rods. I also have a couple of med.39″s of the same make. I might start using them when outside of the shanty. The 32’s work beautiful when I use 1/8 & 3/16 oz. size blades (vibe’s) with the med. rods. Randy I fish my blades as you discribed I was just curious if the stiffer rod might at times might be the ticket? Again thanks guys for your input.
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