Who do I believe?

My 6 yr. old Lazer Mag started acting up so I took it to a Tecumseh dealer and they put a carb. kit in it. They stressed that I run only high octane fuel and use an additive, which I’ve always done. Took it home and it ran like crap. Brought it back and they replaced one more part and took it home and again, it ran like crap. So I found that Northern Tool in Roch. was a Strike Master auth. repair shop. So I bring it there and all he did was pull the muffler off and he tells me that the cylinder scored and checks the compression and tells me it’s pretty much shot. He said this was caused by using 10% eth. gas [Which the owners manual recommends] and told me I should only use non oxygenated fuel only. The thing ran great up to that point, so I feel like I’m getting a run around.

Two issues –

Fuel –

1.) Only use non-ox gas all your motors – except your car.
2.) Use an additive like stabil or Sea Foam – always.

Today’s fuel runs hot, does not lubricate and will eat away at the plastic and rubber parts that it comes in contact with. Stay away from standard pump fuel and use NON-OXY exclusively!!!! You will save time and money in the long run.

Motor –

It is shot and your in need of a replacement. I would explain that to the small engine shop that didn’t know what they were doing. They should give you your money back. The scoring is a direct result of running lean and hot.

2 cents

Dog

I think that manufacturers use crappy materials for vital engine parts now and it doesn’t matter what you run in them…

I’ve been looking through craigs list for a 15 hp outboard for a little jon boat. I can’t believe how many outboards that I see on there that are less than 10 yrs old and have already had a powerhead rebuild. I also can’t believe how many 30-40-50 year old motors that are on there that haven’t been touched and run like a champ.

The best I think you can do is go non-ethanol gas and use a high quality oil, but who knows if that would have prevented any damage. Octane content is only required for a high compression motor, so use what ever octane your manual calls for. Ultimately though, I just think that if you buy something that is newer you just have to assume that there is a good chance you’ll be doing a rebuild on it at some point, and you chalk it up to the cost of doing business.

That has been a great motor, same one I have had for 7 years with out no troubles (I did do a carb kit 2 years ago)
You say it runs like crap, what is it doing not doing?

10% eth should run fine in there as long as you treat it and do not let it sit for more than a week or so. Certainly should not score the cyls. What oil mix were you running in it?

The ethanol is a bad idea. Ethanol will dissolve the brass needle and seat inside the carb and may also effect gaskets. Scoring is usually caused from debris entering the motor. Has the air filter been changed regularly and oiled if needed. If the compression indeed is too low that is the cause of the motor running poorly. It needs to be honed and re-ringed.

You might not have had a 10% mixture.
My small engine mechanic believes that the mix ratio at gas stations varies quite a bit.
He has tested gas in small engines and it can vary up to as much as 18% ethanol. Not a good thing for small engines.
I will not burn any ethanol mix in my outboards or lawn equipment.

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The ethanol is a bad idea. Ethanol will dissolve the brass needle and seat inside the carb and may also effect gaskets. Scoring is usually caused from debris entering the motor. Has the air filter been changed regularly and oiled if needed. If the compression indeed is too low that is the cause of the motor running poorly. It needs to be honed and re-ringed.

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Also – heat will cause a hot spot on the piston …and ultimately scoring.

Well you guy,s gave me the answers I was looking for. I know I won’t trust the first shop any more. Now were can I get a new power head? I wonder if a 4 stroke will adapt to it.

I bought a new Solo powerhead for my auger two years ago. I believe I got it from Red Rock or something like that??

Best bet buy a new ice auger and sell the bit.

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Fuel –

1.) Only use non-ox gas all your motors – except your car.
2.) Use an additive like stabil or Sea Foam – always.

Today’s fuel runs hot, does not lubricate and will eat away at the plastic and rubber parts that it comes in contact with. Stay away from standard pump fuel and use NON-OXY exclusively!!!! You will save time and money in the long run.

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X2. Except for our vehicle, if it stays in the garage it burns non-oxy and gets the sea-foam. That is universal for both 2 and 4 stroke engines at this house. That oxygenated fuel is meant for the auto industry, not small engines.

Try a new can of gas. Did you happen to add too much oil by any chance?

Happened to me. Ran terrible even after I did a carb kit. Tried new gas and ran like new.

How long is the non-oxy+seafoam mix good for. I’ve used Stabil for years with no problems, but I’d like to check this out.

Sorry I don’t buy the cause was oxygen related fuel issues scoring a cylinder wall. I do believe that a engine running lean will score a cylinder wall from carbon build up. apiece of dirt got thru the air filter, dirt got in one of the carb jets and leaned the engine out. But fuel itself will not score a cylinder wall.

I do know for a fact not using a good two stroke oil will stick rings and block exhaust ports in two stroke engine. Since I have started running straight synthetic 2 stroke oil I have never had issues of carbon build up.

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Ethanol will dissolve the brass needle and seat inside the carb…

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Ethanol dissolves brass, huh? That’s a new one!

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Best bet buy a new ice auger and sell the bit.

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I know a guy who is looking for a bit

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How long is the non-oxy+seafoam mix good for. I’ve used Stabil for years with no problems, but I’d like to check this out.

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I buy two 5 gallon cans each spring. One gets mixed for my 20 horse and this one also gets stabil along with the seafoam and oil. Any fuel left over from the fall is put in a seperate can. I replace the outboard fuel as needed along the way. The second can gets seafoam and nothing else. Using a 1 gallon can I add a little oil to the can and fill with the left-over outboard fuel to use all summer long in the weed eater, the leaf blower, etc. The second can of non ox is used in the snow blower, mowers and tiller. It depends on the year but some of this can sit around for quite a while. With last winter a bust for snow and mowing hardly needed for half of the summer, I am still using fuel left from last spring….actually bought about Jan. 1st last year. I give the cans a shake before filling anything but the gas delivers great power yet and the equipment the gas is used in starts right up and runs fine. There was a time or two I cheated and used this oxygenated junk and if the stuff stayed in the tank for more than a couple months the headsaches began.

Whenever we travel and I stop to fill the van, I look for the more expensive non-oxygenated fuel to fill with. Two things are immediately apparent in doing this. First the van has way more power and second the mileage jumps by about 12 to 15 percent even while pulling the boat or camper. Minnesota’s great gas sucks but luckily we can still use and get non-oxy for small engines.

This problem with ethanol rests on the manufacturer’s shoulders. This is crap. We have been hearing this issue for years and nothing seems to be done. In smaller towns, it is next to impossible to find Non-oxy fuel. These engines are generally used such a short time, shut down, frozen, then stored for months at a time. For the money, I expect a product to do what it was designed to do, without all the crap that goes with it. These things shouldn’t be as finicky as they are.

This is me apologizing and stepping down from my soapbox.