Strike Master starting question

It may just be me but it seems my Lazer Mag with the Tecumseh engine can be at times a bear to start. I have owned it for 6-7 years. I run Saber at 64-80:1 and run a notch higher hotter spark plug. I just hate it when I watch TV and James or Joel pulls the cord once and the thing just starts

Long story short I tried everything then one day in my frustration a buddy comes up and gives it a little throttle and while pulling and she pops. So now I finally give it throttle and pull and she will pop on the 5th or 6th pull when dead cold. She runs great and cuts great once started and warmed up a little.

I can live with my current arrangement but it is awkward to give it throttle and pull due to throttle position

Spoke with Strikemaster a few years ago asking if it should be adjusted and they said if it runs fine and cuts fine leave it alone as adjusting it could effect its running performance.

I love the power of 2 strokes but every time I see that Honda start on TV the first pull it just get me worked up

Do they really start that easy (the Honda when dead cold) and should my two stoke Tecumseh start easier? What has been your guys experience?

Thanks!!!
Bob

I believe my Dad has the same auger with the same issues he rarely even uses the thing and can barely start it…. it has a little personality i can normally get it to start on pull three and if I’m lucky she will stay running sometimes it will fizzle out and die but once she’s warm watch out that thing is sweet sounds a lot like your issues i wouldn’t bother to much with it if it cuts the ice and your not worried about it starting i’d say why not just deal with it even though seeing the one pull start is sometimes frustrating

I choke mine for a pull or 2. Turn the choke off and pull the throttle a time or 2 and it almost always starts on the next pull.

I thought I read in the manual of the new 2hp I got this year that you are suppose to give it a little throttle when pulling. If I am wrong, then I am just in the habit of doing that with the other augers I’ve used in the past.

Two thoughts… on mine, I have always choked it until it “pops” and then cut the choke to at most half open. Just seems to help with that need to get to the throttle right away.

Other thing I just did, and it is making a huge difference is a $14 rebuild kit from H2outfitters for the carb. Starts better, runs better. The little rubber portion of the flap valve was getting stiff, and a fresh one reminded me how should run.

The new Honda will start on the first pull throughout the day as more holes are drilled prior. The starting in the morning needs a little love to get going. Usually primed about 10 times or until bulb is full, then full choke 5-7 pulls you will get that “pop” that some guys referred too, (where it almost starts but dies right away)then move to 1/2 choke and usually starts next pull. I lay the auger down and will finish getting my gear ready for the day letting the auger warm up for a good 5 or so minutes prior to drilling my first hole. With proper warm up these augers drill fast!!!

I have troubles too, choke, pull, pull, pull…. Look at switch, turn switch on and then it seems to start better..

I have one also. It is the way it is. It seems like everybody says the same thing. Its a cold starter. All the little tricks to make them fire reminds me of all the little tricks to start my original nintendo video game system. Blow in it etc.

I just think about all those years poking holes with an 8 inch Mora HAND auger, and suddenly my Strike Master seems to run just fine.

Like others have mentioned, when it’s cold I choke it and give it a little throttle. Then I back the choke off half way and let it run for a few minutes to warm up.

Rootski

Love me old tecumseh 2hp auger. Going on 13 years now. Running it side by side with my neighbors new solo last winter it was very close to the same drilling speed. Would say with in a second or two per hole. Not enough difference for me to pull the plug on a new one. Throw in all the plastic, exposed wires, decompression button, prime bulb, ect on the solo motors the old tecumsah is just to simple of a motor to give up on.

After 13 years mine runs about the same way. 5 to 10 pulls to start the 1st time. Usually 1 to 3 pulls after that during the day unless it really cools down. Let it set for a minute to warm up or drill 1st holes haft choke. From there on out let it rip. Might be on 2nd or third plug in 13 years. Dont pay to close attention to fuel mixture and for some reason it just keeps going.

You got a 2hp or 3hp? Now those older 3hp I seem to remember are a hole nother animal. Pull the motor off, drain gas and oil, tie rope on and you got a good boat anchor.

You guys are forgetting the most important step. Depress the compression release button after each pull!!!!!!!

Here is my step by step starting procedure:
1: Make sure you have fuel in tank
2: Turn run switch on
3:push decompression button
4:Full Choke on
5 Add little throttle
6: Pull repeat 5 maybe 6 times till pop
7: turn choke mid way
8 pull she starts keep throttle on and move choke slowly to off
9 let her warm up a bit
10 stand back and let her rip some holes

PS mine is a 2 HP

I got a buddy with a much older Lazer Mag with the metal handles and I swear that thing starts 1-2 pulls has no de compression button and is beat to hell

So it sounds like mine is “normal” and the Hondas have some cold starting personality too

So I think I will just hang on to her for as long as she does the job. I just wish it was less awkward to add throttle while pulling the recoil cord. It is like they designed it so you should not have to do that.

By the way I really hate that decompression button sometimes if I pull fast enough between pulls I don’t need to push it. But you got to time it right
Thanks everyone I feel better that mine is normal. I just wish I could leave it running to warm it up a bit and do other things to prepare.

If I don’t keep my hand on the throttle she will stall

By the way I do run premium fuel and seafoam (2 oz to gallon) on all my small engines

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By the way I really hate that decompression button sometimes if I pull fast enough between pulls I don’t need to push it. But you got to time it right
Thanks everyone I feel better that mine is normal. I just wish I could leave it running to warm it up a bit and do other things to prepare.

If I don’t keep my hand on the throttle she will stall

By the way I do run premium fuel and seafoam (2 oz to gallon) on all my small engines

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I agree, naturally after pulling you want to pull again right away instead of pushing that buttton. Almost tore my arm off one time using my buddies and not pushing the decompression deal.

Mine starts fine but you have to choke it good. After the first start let the machine warm up 1 to 2 minutes.This works real good. As said on the power head of the auger(let it run warm up 1 to 2 mim.)If you want one that starts and goes right now. Get an electric. Jerry

This is my first year ever running a Strikemaster, it’s a 224 with the 2 hp Tecumseh motor. I’m running amsoil saber pro at around 80:1 and a little sea foam in it because the guy I bought it from this fall was excited to tell me there was still “good mixed gas” in it from last winter. Never the less, it started right up and ran fine.

I start it with full choke and full throttle and it starts in the first couple pulls every time (I’ve never used the yellow decompression button, isn’t that just to make it pull easier?). I’ll let it run for a few seconds and then start drilling at about quarter choke for the first couple holes until it’s warmed up. I could sit there and stare at it while it warms up, but I’d rather get a few holes punched. It’s not like the oil is injected so there shouldn’t be much to worry about running it cold with the choke.

My only complaint is the bog/hesitation when I hit the throttle. I’ve noticed it with mine and other strikemaster 2 hp Tecumseh’s that I’ve use… I hit the throttle to start drilling and it bogs down for a second (never kills, just bogs) then starts ripping ice. I would think it’s due to a dirty carb, but it happens in all the older strikemasters I’ve used. I suppose it really makes no difference in drilling, it’s just the only thing I can find to complain about with it.

Either way now I can say I’ve “owned” a Jiffy, Nils, and Strikemaster. All are great augers!

Nothing better than the old Tecemsehs ….I have an old old 3 hp…..prime that baby about 10 times and starts on the second pull every time, no matter how cold.

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The new Honda will start on the first pull throughout the day as more holes are drilled prior. The starting in the morning needs a little love to get going. Usually primed about 10 times or until bulb is full, then full choke 5-7 pulls you will get that “pop” that some guys referred too, (where it almost starts but dies right away)then move to 1/2 choke and usually starts next pull. I lay the auger down and will finish getting my gear ready for the day letting the auger warm up for a good 5 or so minutes prior to drilling my first hole. With proper warm up these augers drill fast!!!

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Cal
If I understand you correctly once started the Honda will continue to idle with out the aid of holding the throttle?

I can accept this type of warm up before drilling holes. My two stoke Tecumseh requires you keep partial throttle thus waiting 2 plus minutes feels like an eternity especially the colder it gets and I must admit I am not the most patient person
Thanks
Bob

I never hold the throttle and you won’t have to on any of the newer strikemasters. Simply do what Cal has stated. Once she’s running, set her down and go setup some stuff. Come back 3 mins later, and off you go drilling. I have Lazer Pro if you’re wondering. Have used the Honda also

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The new Honda will start on the first pull throughout the day as more holes are drilled prior. The starting in the morning needs a little love to get going. Usually primed about 10 times or until bulb is full, then full choke 5-7 pulls you will get that “pop” that some guys referred too, (where it almost starts but dies right away)then move to 1/2 choke and usually starts next pull. I lay the auger down and will finish getting my gear ready for the day letting the auger warm up for a good 5 or so minutes prior to drilling my first hole. With proper warm up these augers drill fast!!!

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Cal

If I understand you correctly once started the Honda will continue to idle with out the aid of holding the throttle?

I can accept this type of warm up before drilling holes. My two stoke Tecumseh requires you keep partial throttle thus waiting 2 plus minutes feels like an eternity especially the colder it gets and I must admit I am not the most patient person

Thanks

Bob

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Yep I get it running and leave the auger on about 1/2 choke and it idles fine for a long time as long as it takes to get ready. Never having to hold the throttle to keep running.

Benelli,

I have an old 1987 strikemaster MagIII I’ll sell ya for $100! You’ve even used it once or twice so you know it works! Might even accept beer as partial payment…

Yes
You have a great easy starting engine made before emissions were ever considered none of that pollution control crap. If I took your power head and my lazer mag bit it would be the finest auger ever made

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Yes
You have a great easy starting engine made before emissions were ever considered none of that pollution control crap. If I took your power head and my lazer mag bit it would be the finest auger ever made

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They are made these days to run too lean.And it gets worse as it gets colder.If the carb has adjustable Hi/Low speed jets,I tweak them richer.Made a world of difference on my Solo and Husky chainsaw. to the EPA

Update
Well I invested is some new blades wow what a difference!!
My old blades were fine till last weekend when I started to notice some extra effort. As the day progressed it got significantly worse.

So I figured it was time to buy new blades. Brought her inside to warm up. I installed the new blades . Figured I would do a test start and she started in 1/2 a pull. Kinda caught me off guard. I guess room temp makes a big differnce.

I would like to keep the old blades and have them professionally sharpened or should I just buy another set for back up. Is there any one who can sharpen them to new??

PS I had a heck of a time finding new blades south of the metro. I called H20 outfitters and they mailed them out to me price was competitive shipping cost was low, and service great.

Unrelated I did order some VMC quick set hooks and Suffix fluorocarbon through Rapala prices were ok but shipping and handling costs were rather high. But I could not find any retailers in the south metro that had them in stock.

If I was a buyer for any of these products I would watch some fishing shows and stock some product. I also had a heck of a time buying blade baits and slender spoons. Ended up placing a free shipping order through B fishing/ Custom jigs and spins

Bob

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Yes
You have a great easy starting engine made before emissions were ever considered none of that pollution control crap. If I took your power head and my lazer mag bit it would be the finest auger ever made

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They are made these days to run too lean.And it gets worse as it gets colder.If the carb has adjustable Hi/Low speed jets,I tweak them richer.Made a world of difference on my Solo and Husky chainsaw. to the EPA

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MileMark
Is it easy to rejet? what type of mods? I agree these run too lean

I for got to mention that I got a good sparkplug in my Strikemaster, NGK, Don’t get mad. I wish someone in the USA would make a sparkplug as good as NGK, I have had a lot of experiance with this through the years. Polaris comes from the factory with NGK. Go to your small engine shops and see how many sell NGK. Jerry.