Enclosed Trailer Info / Recommendations Wanted

Hey all,

I’m considering the purchase of a 23′ – 26′ enclosed aluminum trailer with V-nose and I’m looking for recommendations on manufacturer and features that trailer owners consider “must-haves.”

Axle ratings, number of axles, rock guard, door location and type are all considerations.

It seems like every town big enough to have a stop light has an outfit making trailers so there’s a lot of potential sources. Anyone willing to share their experiences with aluminum enclosed trailers, good or bad, will be appreciated.

If money isn’t a issue or better yet get them as a sponsor, Featherlite trailers. I completely understand wanting the longer trailer but consider where you will be pulling in at, If it has a steep incline you could drag or get hung up with the back end. You can go with a box that has the tires and axles completely under the floor of the box. This would give you more inside cubic footage and tail end clearance. But it will make it a higher climb to get equipment loaded.

I am not sure if they offer frames of Aluminum or not but my old boss has 3 Haulmark enclosed trailers and they have been great. I still have his first 12′ from 98′. She has is pretty beat up from construction use but is still performing well.

If I was going to buy a new trailer I would buy a featherlite, or a triton trailer. Either way they are both quality built trailers. I had a triton that was trouble free for 8 years. Just replaced the tires once, and repacked wheel bearings a few times.

Long time lurker but decided to register on this one. James check out Aluma trailers all aluminum and 5 year warranty. I own the 6.5 by 14ft and good not be happier, good luck in your search

Thanks for the recommendations guys. I’m off to check them out online. One thing’s for sure with trailers… they all look basically the same on the outside but the devil will be in the details. I’m willing to pay extra for a reliable trailer that will last a long time.

Must Have: Fueling Access Doors, Multiple In floor tie loops, spare tire mount and tire inside, led lights in/out. Lots of nice trailers out there, always had tritons myself, but never a v-nose.

Electric brakes

All of my enclosed trailers have been predominately for construction. With that, I have racked up 1000’s of miles. Because of my use, they are more “disposable” trailers. Keep in mind that the half dozen big name trailer makers will hype the petty features and build them as cheap as they can. Its a TOUGH market yet and they are very competitive in cost/manufacturing.
I’m guessing your looking at the ATV’s/sleds/snowmobile and gear. You’ll see a significant jump in cost from crap to quality. If I were to buy another new trailer that I expected to last the beatings, here are a few things I would spec out:
1. For that length, dual axels rated for min 150% of gross weight and payload.
2. Entire under carriage to be an Epoxy based Powder coat paint
3. All Aluminum sub-floor –
4. I would need to look up the names of the tie down tracks, similar to 3/4″ deep uni-strut with counter sunk stainless mounting hardware to the frame. The tie downs I have seen for these go in and a 1/4 turn to lock. My cabinet maker has them in his 20′ trailer and are the slickest thing for securing anything of any size/shape…

5. Wish List item, though this gets a bit pricy. Definitely an after market thing to do. Add the Battery rack, power inverter, and solar panels. Saw this in a tournament equipment trailer and was impressed with how much they could operate off of 6 marine batteries!
6. torsion axles. Knowing the miles from home your traveling, a tandem axle trailer can go on three wheels for a while. Alternative is DOA – roadside. They also travel a LOT smoother with lighter loads.
7. Oil Vs Grease on the hub bearings. I wouldn’t jump into the added cost for oiled hub bearings. Stay with grease. You gain about an additional 2500 rpm bearing life rating with oil, but you’ll never go over the 7000 rpms grease rating driving at reasonable highway speeds (under 80 MPH) A typical 225/75D15 at 80 mph will be turning just under 1000 RPMS.
8. Opinions vary on brakes. I prefer electric control. I would look at controller options that they have available. You’ll want to adjust it on a trailer that size for different loads

Well, thats all I can think of at the moment. Unless your going 5th wheel. Then you have some cool living quarter options to consider Too bad you didn’t start this process back in the summer time. With all your trip WI, I could have taken you over to Aztlan motorcycle racing track. You would get to see hundreds of trailers rigged out in so many different configurations. Good Luck

James –

I have looked at Featherlite, Haulmark and have also been impressed with Stealth Trailers.

I think Randy has covered much of what you are looking for – I would make sure that you have enough load capacity and a controller for the brakes – with how big / all the stuff you are going to want to haul.

Clearance might be an issue for you, too – if you are taking it “one the ice”

Scott

Aluma trailers…at least their sled trailers are very good, I have been running an aluma sled trailer for 10+ years, it is getting close to needind the wood deck replaced but other than that the trailer has been great.

Just over a year ago I bought a Royal Cargo 6×12 V front for hunting stuff. I have put a bunch of miles on it in 14 months, it pulls really nice and has some high grade compressed floor with a long warranty. I bought it at M&G Trailer Sales in Ramsey and I have been really happy with it.

Lots of good info. For me, the most important question is who is hooking up and pulling this trailer. For some reason when others use / pull my trailers they have issue’s. Be sure you have quality safety chains, good wiring to the plug, locking coupler, LED lights.

Another thing to remember………..with your truck if you get to big you become a D.O.T. target.

I would also look into Rance aluminum trailers…buddy hauls all his vintage sleds in his.