Strikemaster Lazer Mag help!

I had problems with my Lazer mag last week at Little Bay De Noc. The unit starts just fine but when I try to apply throttle it bogs down really bad. So bad I could not even drill with it. I changed the fuel and changed the plug but that did not help. Frustrating since my buddy I was fishing with had a Jiffy and was laughing at me! Question being, I have a Strikemaster “authorized repair shop” close to me but how can I be sure they know what they are doing? I really like the Lazer Mag and I don’t want more things to go wrong with it with someone who is not qualified. Should I just bite the bullet and ship it back to Strikemaster? Is there anything else I can try on my own to fix it? Anyone from Strikemaster around that can chime in?

What do you guys think? Thanks!

Steuben1

Typically small engine fixes are very simple and straightforward. Take it to the licensed repair center. I’m confident it will be something small and they’ll have you back on the ice in short order.

Check a couple of posts back. I think bending something in the carb. helps.

http://www.idofishing.com/forum/showflat.php/Number/1088869/fpart/1/strikemaster-lazer-mag-2hp-tecumseh If this works.

Sounds like a dirty carb. There is a round float bowl in the engine. They usually screw off. Spray the bowl with carb cleaner then use 4# mono to clean the jets. I would then run some seafoam through it.

It’s also rumored that by replacing the plug (CJ-6)with a hotter burning one (CJ-8), it’ll run better. Myself, the repair shop sounds the best option, that way you knw it should have been done right.

An run premium gas. 92 octane

Premium is fine but the non oxygenated is better. I run this in all of my small engines and notice a big difference. Just not all gas stations carry it. It is 91 octane.

Plugged jet

The diaphram is bad.Very common problem. Just put one in my auger yesterday. You may or may not have to adjust the metering tab like explained in the link above. About a 15 minute job if you know what you are doing.

A carb kit at Strikemaster is $20.

To replace the diaphram you need to remove the gas tank first which has 2 screws and a nut on top. Behind the cover the 2 screws were holding on there are 2 nuts to remove. You will see a chrome plate on the carb with 4 allen screws in it. No need to remove carb just slide it over enough to remove screws. Under that is the diaphram and gasket. Under those is the metering tab which may or may not need to be adjusted. Put in new diaphram and gasket and reasemble and try it. I have done enough of these where most of the time replacing all of the carb kit isnt nessisary.

I also should mention these are directions for the older Lazer Mag with a Techumsa motor. I havnt had to do one on my new auger yet but Im sure its similar.

Yes I should have noted that it has a Solo engine on it so I don’t know if that makes a difference with the link above. I am also in no big hurry because in Indiana our ice season is over and I doubt the Mrs. is gonna let me drive 8 hours north again to Little Bay De Noc to find ice for the 3rd time!

James, have you found out whether Little Bay or Big Bay yet? If you go to Little Bay I got some numbers where my group caught some 30’s and 31’s last week. Let me know. This 28″ was the best I could do last week.

Just went and looked at my Solo. Pretty much the same but you dont have to remove the gas tank. Turn black screw/tab by hand to the left and remove guard and filter. Next remove 2 nuts and allan screw to loosen carb. Now you should be able to see and access the same chrome cover that the diaphram is under.

These are very easy to do it yourself and will save you 80-100 bucks.Strikemaster quoted me 80 and not sure that included parts or not. I am going to check with a small engine shop and see if they sell the diaphram and gasket seperate as like I said most times you dont need the whole $20 kit.

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Just went and looked at my Solo. Pretty much the same but you dont have to remove the gas tank. Turn black screw/tab by hand to the left and remove guard and filter. Next remove 2 nuts and allan screw to loosen carb. Now you should be able to see and access the same chrome cover that the diaphram is under.

These are very easy to do it yourself and will save you 80-100 bucks.Strikemaster quoted me 80 and not sure that included parts or not. I am going to check with a small engine shop and see if they sell the diaphram and gasket seperate as like I said most times you dont need the whole $20 kit.

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Thank you! I will give it a shot this weekend. I’ve got 10 months to get it right! I did see the carb kit for the solo motor is $45! OUCH.

If you have a small engine place by you call them and ask them how much a kit is or if you can order/buy the diaphram and gasket seperately. I have a couple kits minus the diaphram and gasket now.Might be cheaper than Strikemaster wants.

If you look on Strikemasers website at the kits you can see what the diaphram looks like in the package. It has a round metal piece with 5 holes in it.Also requires a square gasket.

Well I took apart the carb last night and everything looks good! The diaphram is soft and pliable and does not show any problems at all. I believe the next move is the ignition switch. Will call Strikemaster today and see what they say. This auger has been pretty good to me and its just a month over two years old so I hope I can get her back running.

I had the same problem with my four stroke strikemaster, the auger must have fell over and cracked the plastic spacer between the carb and the motor. Easy fix but it messed up the fuel mixer so it wouldnt run right. You can check it by trying to wiggle the carb, if it’s loose that might be your problem.

Sometimes the breather tube can get clogged. Try running it with a loostened gas cap if you haven’t already.