I’ve never been a fan of braid for ice fishing except for my tipups. I find that it retains too much water and ices up a lot faster. Maybe the 832 will solve that, but I don’t have anything smaller than 80 lb on my muskie gear.
As for swivels, I almost always tie on a small SPRO swivel about a foot above my jig to eliminate line twist. I use a palomar knot from the main line to the swivel and I use a berkeley knot from the swivel to the leader.
I use a small Spro (size 10, I believe) swivel as well, esp with swimming jigs. Keeps the twists away.
Key thing to avoid is having too much leader that the swivel gets into the reel /spool when bring a fish up. I prefer not to have the swivel even reach the rod guides, but it happens occasionally when I don’t have a partner helping out.
When I do line to line, uni to uni http://www.netknots.com/html/double_uni_knot.html
I have been using a blood not to tie a flouro leader onto Suffix Elite Hi Vis 8lb while experimenting jigging for Pike. I started using a swivel first but, for some reason the extra line bouncing on the LX-5 was driving me nuts. I know guys…not a far drive!!!
I only use braid myself when buttoned up in the otter for the reason it holds water and freezes up tight.
I have added a site I use for learning knots. Hope that helps.
Good post Chris. I’m always interested in knowing what everyone prefers. I’m always learning something new through the great group of iceheads we have hanging around here 
Line to Line – Double uni. I have used Fireline Crystal on most all my panfish rods for several years now and really like it. Tried the swivel and did not like it. One more thing to see on the flasher and it tended to draw fish to it instead of the lure. By the way Chris how did deer season go for you up there?
This year I was thinking about experimenting using a very small snap swivel and snelled leader pre-tied on an assortment of ice flies for panfish. I was thinking about doing this to speed up switching colors and styles until I found what they wanted. Anyone see any issues with this?
I haven’t got a dozen ice rigs where I can just tie different things to them beforehand and then just experiment switching rods.
And since I need to be ready for all situations, I won’t use braid, although I’d like to. I have been using braid exclusively for tip up since I was a kid, but when I am tying a metal leader to the end, line visibility isn’t an issue.
I like the fewest connections possible between my lure and my line. I use Fireline Crystal often when ice fishing, this avoids the hassle of needing a knot to knot connection, or a swivel, and has the clarity of mono and benefits of braid. Seems that Fireline is more resistant to ice build up than most braids, too. 
Although water retention it is a common response when using braid in the winter I frankly have been using it for years. Now with this being said if it is extremely cold…….I’m somewhere WARM……”HELLO OTTER!!” Iced up line or eyelits are somethings I try avoid if possible. I find in deeper water my biggest obstacle is coil or memory when it comes to fishing line thus my intial question. Now if I’m fishing shallow water NO BIG DEAL. Still fishing 25+ feet of water “Slinky” fishing line is quite annoying unless your fishing a depth bomb…..with trebles.
Keep them coming guys!! Good Chatter on a critical component to catching. 
For panfish/light jigs, line to line. For ‘eyes or heavier lures, I like the smallest swivel I can get my hands on. Like the braids for jigging, but clear water I’m thinking I like the mono/flouro leader.
Pug, I like your idea. I’ve made up pre-tied tip-up lines before, but it might not hurt to have some pre-tied droppers w/swivels for fast switching; maybe combined w/a small quik-snap on the main line? Thinking of the tiny “u” shaped ones, can’t think of the name. Didn’t like them for hooking baits direct, but might be handy for snapping small swivels attached to a pre-tied leader. Any thoughts???
-Rev
I like the points about the snap showing up on the graph. I’d try and make my leaders long enough for good separation, but short enough to not hit the guides when reeling in a fish. And I’d use a micro snap, but then I have to ask myself, is it going to be any easier trying to hook the tiny snap? Maybe just dedicate 1 setup for when I want to scout a couple different flies/colors until I find a preference when they are finicky.
The ice better come soon. I think I am thinking to much.
The Albright knot is all I use for any braid to mono or fluorocarbon line. It’s very simple to tie and I have yet to have one break.
Blood Knot to flourocarbon is all i use for big
Eyes on LOW.
Swivels can catch on the ice and that is uncool.
Man i need to hook up with you for early ice eyes one of these years.
Pal!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Quote:
Blood Knot to flourocarbon is all i use for big
Eyes on LOW.
Swivels can catch on the ice and that is uncool.
Man i need to hook up with you for early ice eyes one of these years.
Pal!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Keep on practicing on those smaller “Hardwater” eyes over on LOTW; When your ready to step up to the big leagues we’ll get after the true “COLD GOLD” on Rainy Lake. First Ice is getting me JUST A TAD FIRED UP!!
Rainy Lake is the BIG fish Capital of the world!!
Still “Ruffling Feathers” 
What lb Flourocarbon do you prefer to use?
Quote:
The Albright knot is all I use for any braid to mono or fluorocarbon line. It’s very simple to tie and I have yet to have one break.
I have to look up that knot Corey
I use a not that I made myself, probably by mistake. I am going to be using the invisa swivel this year. Just going to try it out..all other swivels just don’t work…
Quote:
I use a not that I made myself, probably by mistake. I am going to be using the invisa swivel this year. Just going to try it out..all other swivels just don’t work…
Hey Luke,
I assume you reference not eliminating line spins rather than not being effective line connection systems when you say “Don’t work”. I’ll have to take a peek at that “Invisa Swivel”.
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