Ice Castle Furnace Problem

I have a 2009 ice castle that has been giving me problems with the furnace this year. First the furnace would light but it wasn’t putting off much heat. I discovered that there was propane leaking from the hose outside. I replaced the hose and regulator and went to fire up the furnace. Boom, everything worked well, for about 10 mins. Now my furnace will not stay lit. I took off the cover to see if it’s lighting and it is. The igniter will go off and there will be a flame for about 5 seconds and then it shuts off. It does this repeatedly. A furnace newbie here so I’m looking for some tips on what is causing this please.

Could be air in the supply line since you recently replaced it. Do the other propane accessories work well (stove/oven if equipped)?

Could be the high limit switch opening up or the sail switch not staying closed from the force of the fan

The stovetop does work

Try cleaning the flame sensor with steel wool.

Don Carlisle wrote:

Try cleaning the flame sensor with steel wool.

or does it have an orface or whatever it’s called like a buddy heater???

I had that issue with the buddy heater. Took a Q tip, trimmed off the cotton stuff till it fit in the hole, dipped IT IN rubbing alcohol and wiped it out a few times and worked like a champ.

Does it have an inline filter? Check it.

Correct regulator?

I had a 2009 castle that i had furnace issues with after a couple seasons. Furnace would work then eventually middle of the night not light. Went through the whole furnace and foolishly ended up being the battery. Furnace blower, fish house lights, etc all worked but not enough juice to fire the gas valve. Switched to running 2 batteries in parallel and never had problem again. Something to check with a meter as your furnace goes through ignition process.

Is this a Attwood or a Suburban furnace? I have a Attwood in my 2013 that was not working right. A good cleaning of the burner and flame sensor and it works great now. Don’t leave oily fingerprints on the flame sensor. You probably will need a new gasket to seal it back up. Smokey hills has a very good you tube video on the suburban furnace. You can test the sail switch on both furnaces by unplugging the switch and putting a fuse in.

How about an update on what you found out?

3rdtryguy wrote:

How about an update on what you found out?

Waiting on a limit switch and some new gaskets to put back in the furnace. Sounds like many people have had issues with limit switches. Cleaning everything didn’t change anything, there’s also no inline filter and I already have it running paralleled with two batteries and have tried it with direct hook up to an outlet. Hopefully the limit switch is it since I have to disconnect a bunch of wires and screws just to get the furnace out so I can work on it. They did not make it accessible on my model.

This stuff happens a lot so it’s nice when people do searches they see what cured others problems. Thanks Fishking.

If the limit was bad it would not light at all. Use your volt meter and start by checking voltage .

Don Carlisle wrote:

If the limit was bad it would not light at all. Use your volt meter and start by checking voltage .

Not exactly. It could be opening before it is suppose to. But yes, start check things with a meter. There a pretty simple unit

Some limits have a manual reset if I recall correctly