E-collar

  • Eric Rehberg
    Eau Claire, WI
    Posts: 3071
    #720622

    I know on my 99 there was a recall on the ABS sensor. You may want to check into that first. Im guessing its just a bad contact or sensor.

    My .02

    rembrant
    Waterloo,Iowa
    Posts: 168
    #720623

    I’m pretty sure its a wheel speed sensor on a front wheel…which one? Will need a scan tool to find out. What happens is that at slower speeds one of the front wheel speed sensor reads 0 mph while the other reads…lets say 7mph The one reading zero is making the ebcm(brake module) think that one front tire is locked up. Make sure you check for a loose wheel bearing also.. unlikely causing the problem but have seen a few that where very loose. Good luck

    dandorn
    M.I.N.N.E.S.O.T.A.
    Posts: 3207
    #720624

    This happened to me on my Suburban. It was corrosion on
    on the front wheel speed sensors. It coincidentally happened after the dealer did a front brake job.

    There was a bulletin or maybe even a recall regarding this
    problem.

    Dan

    rembrant
    Waterloo,Iowa
    Posts: 168
    #720627

    Yep there is a recall on this but its from 99-2002 models. The corrosion is caused by lack of sealing..rust building under the flat surface of the sensor and forcing it up increasing the air gap and causing the sensor to drop out at slow speeds. You could try and clean the flat surface of the hubs(both) where the sensor goes,make sure to use grease when reinstalling.

    trumar
    Rochester, Mn
    Posts: 5967
    #720630

    Here is what my Alldata says about the problem and what to do about it .This should help you out

    This bulletin is being revised to provide additional warranty information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-05-25-007B (Section 05 – Brakes).

    Condition

    Some customers may comment on ABS activation at low speeds, usually below 8 km/h (5 mph). Upon investigation, the technician will find no DTCs set.

    Cause

    The cause of this condition may be an increased air gap between the wheel speed sensor and the hub reluctor ring due to rust and debris built up on the sensor mounting surface.

    Correction

    Measure AC voltage and clean the wheel speed sensor mounting surfaces.

    1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in the General Information sub-section of the Service Manual.

    2. Disconnect both the front wheel speed sensor connectors at the frame and harness.

    3. Place a Digital Volt Meter (DVM) across the terminals of each wheel speed sensor connector.

    4. Rotate the wheel clockwise approximately one revolution per second. The minimum reading should be at least 350 ACmV’s. If the reading is less than 350 ACmV’s, remove the wheel speed sensor. Refer to the applicable Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement procedure in the ABS sub-section of the Service Manual.

    5. Plug the wheel speed sensor bore in order to prevent debris from falling into the hub during service.

    6. Clean the wheel speed sensor mounting surface using a wire brush, sand paper, emery cloth, scotch brite, or other suitable material. Be sure to thoroughly clean the wheel speed sensor surface. There should be no rust or corrosion.

    7. Check the sensor head to determine if it has been warped/distorted due to the corrosion build up or other causes. Check the mounting surface on the sensor head for flatness by placing it on the edge of a metal machinists scale or other suitable straight edge to measure the flatness. Check the sensor for flatness in multiple (minimum 3) positions/directions. If the sensor head is distorted, replace the sensor.

    8. Apply (spray) two thin coats of the specified rust penetrating lubricant (corrosion inhibitor) to the complete sensor mounting surface on the bearing hub. Allow to dry for 3-5 minutes between coats. Use ONLY Rust Penetrating Lubricant, P/N 89022217 (Canadian P/N 89022218).

    9. When the corrosion inhibitor is dry to the touch (about 10 minutes), apply a thin layer of bearing grease to the hub surface and sensor 0-ring prior to sensor installation. Use ONLY Wheel Bearing Lubricant, P/N 01051344 (Canadian P/N 993037).

    10. Install either the original sensor or a new one in the hub. Ensure that the sensor is seated flush against the hub. Refer to the applicable Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement procedure in the ABS sub-section of the Service Manual.

    11. Place the DVM across the sensor terminals and recheck the voltage while rotating the wheel. The voltage should now read at least 350 ACmV’s.

    rvvrrat
    The Sand Prairie
    Posts: 1840
    #720647

    Hey Trumar,

    I have 2001 Silverado that has the same problem. So is this a recall where I could take it to the dealer and they do the work under warranty or is this just a service bulletin on how to fix the problem? Sounds like you might have an in to some info about this and I’d appreciate any info!

    Pete

    gary_wellman
    South Metro
    Posts: 6057
    #720648

    holy crap!
    Talk about coincidence!!!!
    My 99 burb JUST started doing this once in a blue moon over the past week.
    Same as said above.

    I got the same question as Curmudgeon, my 99 is under “recall”?

    chappy
    Hastings, MN
    Posts: 4854
    #720662

    Quote:


    I have a 2004 Chevy crew 4×4. Problem is when I’m sometimes coming to a stop at slow speeds the ABS systems is engaging on dry pavement. Problem doesn’t happen all the time, was wondering if anyone has had this problem and what is the cure? thanks Eric


    Just had it fixed on my 99.Exact same problem. I had the front bearings replaced and it was fixed.Not saying it’s the bearings, But the sensor might be at fault.Have your Mechanic check the sensor and see what he say’s.In my case like I said,my bearings were bad,but sensor was fine.Changed bearings to the tune of $1000 and it was fixed.($1000 by a private mechanic.)He got the same parts a dealer can get and he saved me $350 per side! And no…..It wasn’t covered under warranty on mine.Good luck and if you want the name of my Mechanic…Let me know.

    puddlepounder
    Cove Bay Mille Lacs lake MN
    Posts: 1814
    #720666

    my 99 3/4 ton pick-up has been doing this for ever. tap the brakes when going slow and one of the front tires locks up. this only happends after the truck has been sitting all night long. i have owned this truck since it was new, and haven’t recieved any recall notice. has there ever been a recall notice issuedon this truck???

    chappy
    Hastings, MN
    Posts: 4854
    #720671

    Quote:


    my 99 3/4 ton pick-up has been doing this for ever. tap the brakes when going slow and one of the front tires locks up. this only happends after the truck has been sitting all night long. i have owned this truck since it was new, and haven’t recieved any recall notice. has there ever been a recall notice issuedon this truck???


    It was NOT on recall for my truck..Just a bulletin

    scenic tackle
    Bemidji, MN
    Posts: 727
    #720674

    A while ago my 2000 started out with the ABS engaging periodically. Then it got worse. Took it in and had it checked to find that the right side front wheel bearing was out. Wheel bearing was $161.00 and it takes about an hour-hour an a half to put them in.

    timdomaille
    Rochester Mn
    Posts: 1908
    #720767

    It is from dust in the rear brake drums. Have them cleaned and adjusted. Should not happen anymore. Our plow truck where I work is a 99 and does the same thing. Clean the rear brakes and it seems ok now.

    trumar
    Rochester, Mn
    Posts: 5967
    #720810

    It was a technical service bulletin, as far warrenty issue contact your local GM dealer and ask them if there is a recall on that year and model on that problem ,if you dont trust thier word call a few dealers

    I just looked at my Aldata and there may be a reacall on ABS speed sensor and or cleaning of them ,check it out to be sure tho

    abster71
    crawford county WI
    Posts: 817
    #720813

    thanks everyone for the info I contacted a freind and he said that it’s probably brake dust and start with cleaning hope that will due it have to replace rear disc and pads also terrible design 05’s they went back to rear drums from what I’ve seen they only last about a year and they rust up again Great Idea. NOT!!!!!!!!!!. One more thing too spend money on.

    kooty
    Keymaster
    1 hour 15 mins to the Pond
    Posts: 18101
    #131205

    Looks like a good collar to me. I always figured if my dog is more than a 1/2 mile from me, I’ve got more important things to work on than any e-collar can help correct.

    Pete Bauer
    Stillwater, MN
    Posts: 2599
    #131228

    Quote:


    Looks like a good collar to me. I always figured if my dog is more than a 1/2 mile from me, I’ve got more important things to work on than any e-collar can help correct.


    True, but also remember that they probably figure those distances on a nice flat field with line of sight.

    I use a SportDog brand E-Collar – have had very good luck with it. I started with a 1/2mile range one but later upgraded to the 1825 rated for 1mile.

    I also use my ecollar when we go for walks etc so the extra range is nice. My ‘1/2’ mile collar, wouldn’t make a beep at 150-200yards in thick cover. Something to consider when your dog takes off after a rabbit

    neusch303
    Posts: 539
    #131231

    I am using the SportDOG Wetland 400. I have been very happy with it.

    1/2 a mile is 880 yards. If your dog is that far away you have control issues. I haven’t had to test the range in my Wetland 400 yet. I run labs.

    My dad runs Weimaraners and he maintains a close contact as well. I don’t know any guys that can shoot pheasant past 50 yards and I darn sure don’t know guys who shoot grouse past 10-15 yards. If your dog is beyond 50 yards, they are out of range and not hunting for you. I would work on that first and then the range will not be important.

    I would agree. I use mine on walks more than I do hunting and it works great for that. Dad jokes that e-collars are “listening aids” for our dogs. It is amazing how much better our commands are recieved and interpretated when they have the collar on.

    johnee
    Posts: 731
    #131242

    I don’t own a dog, but I do know a couple of sales/marketing guys from the e-collar space. A couple of random additions:

    – The Game Fair in Anoka is a great place to look because all the big players are in one place. Lots of knowledge and you get to look at the full product lines in person. Also, there can be some very good deals there.

    – The “range” issue is something of a red herring. The bottom line is that e-collar transmitters are VHF transmitters and therefore work on principles that limit the practical range. 800 yards, 1 mile, etc, these are all theoretical ranges under certain conditions. Practical range in the field will almost always be less than the stated maximum.

    Grouse

    koldfront kraig
    Coon Rapids mn
    Posts: 1816
    #131245

    Quote:


    I am using the SportDOG Wetland 400. I have been very happy with it.

    1/2 a mile is 880 yards. If your dog is that far away you have control issues. I haven’t had to test the range in my Wetland 400 yet. I run labs.

    My dad runs Weimaraners and he maintains a close contact as well. I don’t know any guys that can shoot pheasant past 50 yards and I darn sure don’t know guys who shoot grouse past 10-15 yards. If your dog is beyond 50 yards, they are out of range and not hunting for you. I would work on that first and then the range will not be important.

    I would agree. I use mine on walks more than I do hunting and it works great for that. Dad jokes that e-collars are “listening aids” for our dogs. It is amazing how much better our commands are recieved and interpretated when they have the collar on.


    I’m not sure I agree with you about a dog being over 50 yards away “not hunting for you”.
    I used to think that way hunting over Labs. But after hunting over pointers in open country I can see a good pointer ranging further out works great. Provided the dog holds its point.

    neusch303
    Posts: 539
    #131260

    Quote:


    I’m not sure I agree with you about a dog being over 50 yards away “not hunting for you”.
    I used to think that way hunting over Labs. But after hunting over pointers in open country I can see a good pointer ranging further out works great. Provided the dog holds its point.


    I would concede that point. We don’t usually let even our pointers range beyond 50 yards. Maybe 60-70 yards at the most once in a while. I can see some trainers letting their pointers ranging further however.

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