We’ll give it a shot this weekend. Sounds like the crappie improved. Its been a couple years sense we were there, the kids had a ball catching those but weren’t any over about 6″ from what I remember. Did catch a few nice bass that time too.
Was the lake full? Almost not enough to get the boat in when we were there last.
Not a bad weekend on the water. No crappie but had a 6, a 5, and a 3pounder bass fishing with plenty of little guys inbetween to keep things from getting boaring.
Or does everyone get that urge to start pressing some copper this time of the year? 
Loading for a Tikka T3 stainless .270WSM 
BOOM 
I’ve got a Tikka T3 Hunter in that same caliber! I think I read somewhere that you can get the wood stock with a stainless barrel now…??? I’d love to have one like that!
I’ve been looking at a few calibers to put beneath a new Burris XTR 416. Had gotten pretty hyped on the 7mm short mag, but was very hard to come by. My close second iwas the 270 WSM. Money is way too tight to go custom, so I looked at what I have been most pleased with. Howa has discontinued the WSM 270, as others did as well. Tikka dropped it from this years offering. I found two that were in stock at a local shop in the stainless T3 lite. Not a fan of the plastic stock and I have plans to replace it asap. I want a Boyd thumbhole, but they don’t make a drop in finished stock for the Tikkas. A blank thumbhole from Boyd is about $70.00 and I can have a buddy CNC it out. The other alternatives that I looked at in a thumbhole are WAY over priced.
I load a 270wsm for a buddy of mine with the exact same rifle. Shooting Barnes TSX 130’s over RL19 is producing 3240fps at the muz and about 1/4 MOA at the bench. Normally the Barnes bullets like that .030 – .070 jump to the lands. His is very touchy at .010 and the bullet tip just barely goes into his magazine.
Waiting to get my FAT torque wrench driver back so I can put this thing together. Bummer when you borrow your tools out and forget who has them. anyone have an inch/pound torque set that I can use for a day??
Quote:
Normally the Barnes bullets like that .030 – .070 jump to the lands. His is very touchy at .010 and the bullet tip just barely goes into his magazine.
LOL…. You just lost me! Please educate my limited capacities! 
I know where there’s a Tikka T3 Camo synthetic/stainless in .270wsm. I’d love to get my hands on it but it’s just not a justifiable priority. I was thinking if I got it that I could just switch the stocks. I think the camo stock would look better with the blued barrel and the stainless on a wood stock would be sweet!
So, .270wsm is disappearing? The performance can’t be much different than the 7mmWSM. Is it? I mean, a .280 is a 7mm diameter and .280/.270 win use the same shell design. In like, turning the .270 into a magnum round would have to make it very close ballistically speaking, I would think anyway. I haven’t looked anything up……
Personally, I LOVE shooting this rifle! I have mine dialed in on 130gr. Remington Core-Lokts and at 100yds, I’m satisfied with the results.
Your right on track with the ballistics!
I took a picture in a gross attempt in not need to type so much 
In a nut shell, this is why every firearm likes a different bullet, load, ect.
Excluding the load (charge or powder, primer, brass) Every bullet chambers different in all rifles. The chanmber is bored for the shell , tapered for the neck, and the bullet enters the “barrel” at the Lands The first part of the bullet to touch the lands is the OGIVE. Because all bullets are different, the Ogive is in a different location or Distance off the Lands When the charge is ignited and the pressure blows, depending how much distance to the lands, bypass may occure. Some bullets like the “Jump” (longer distance to the lands) and others like it tight (almost touching).
In drawing 1, I aggsagerated the distance off the lands with factory ammo. In pic 2, I used a comparator to mark the Ogive on each bullet. My Browning Abolt .270 loves the bullets tight. For years I could never get a factory load to pattern well. When I measured how far the factory bullets were sitting off the lands, I was amazed on how far.
Unfortunately, there is no perfect boring on the chamber and all rifles vary in depth. That is why it is critical to shoot different loads (both bullet weight and speed) to see what performs the best with your particular rifle
You’re too kind to go through that much trouble for me! I really DO appreciate it though! I actually understand what you were saying now and have a greater understanding of “finding your load” than I did before! The only problem I have now is second guessing any firearm I have now that’s not quite “there” on the targets. Is there a way to measure the chamber against the fit of your bullet to determine it’s relationship to the ogive or distance off the lands? Most of my guns shoot factory ammo (of some offering) quite well but I do have a couple that are less than stellar and I’m curious to know if there’s any way to determine which way I might need to go to make it come together? Like, if it’s a “jump” already and needs to be tightened up some or just the opposite?
Thanks again for the lesson! 
I use the Hornady Comparitor system
I stumbled on this video and didn’t watch the entire thing. But from a quick scan, it looks like he did a good informative job on what/how
YOUTUBE – Hornady Comparitor Most of my guns shoot factory ammo (of some offering) quite well but I do have a couple that are less than stellar and I’m curious to know if there’s any way to determine which way I might need to go to make it come together?
That is the specific reason why I got into reloading!
Ohhh rub it in! 
I’m already feeling the impulses to get started. Downside? I have LOTS already. I swear, on some calibers, I have enough to last me until I’m dead! 
So I’m also cringing at the idea of investing in reloading equipment. Might be easier to sell the “ok” ones and replace them with similar offerings.
Thanks again for all your time/input! Really appreciate it! 
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