Time for a new truck??

Do they ask what the horsepower of the motor is?

Do they show different horsepower ranges?

All I see on there is one option, 80hp for this boat, which is what it has on it. I assume that’s the boat’s max rating too, not sure. So what if it says 80 on there, but you have a 6o on there? I’m lost on this one. Usually NADA is pretty easy to use, but this has got me a little confused. Maybe it means I should just offer the guy that number instead of what he wants!

NADA is worthless for boats/outboards

i tend to agree with that. i was offered about 2 grand more on a trade than stated on NADA.

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NADA is worthless for boats/outboards

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I think alot of people use NADA due to the fact that

it’s free.

Not too many people want to shell out $230.00 for the ABOS software. I know I’m not going to.

I think a majority of the boat dealers use the ABOS but I have talked to one recently that uses NADA.

I think if you call a dealership, credit union, or a bank

to find a used value you’ll be getting either ABOS or NADA information.

Remember that NADA lists a low and average retail. NADA also notes this…..”Note: Outboard Motors in exceptional condition can be worth a significantly higher value than the Average Retail Price shown.”

And……..”Note: Vessels in exceptional condition can be worth a significantly higher value than the Average Retail Price shown.”

I think NADA provides a good starting point for both the

seller and the buyer. Is it an exact science? No it isn’t. Do a lot of people use it? Yes!!

If you keep your equipment in like new condition you

can set your own price. Just try not to exceed the price

of a brand new one!

Ok guys. I’ve got a 2001 Chevy 1500HD with the 6.0L in it. It currently has 118,000 miles on it. It’s in the shop now cause the 4 wheel drive went out. I had my mechanic check out a leak in the front end as well. He tells me the idler wheels are getting fatigued and are not applying the appropriate pressure to the serpentine belts as well as the water pump is what is leaking. So I’m going to have him fix that along with the 4 wheel drive. We aren’t even sure why the 4 wheel went out. My “service 4 wheel drive” idiot light came on yesterday and the 4 wheel became non-functional.

1.5 years ago I had to replace the brake rotors on the truck, they were warped badly. Currently the fuel sending unit is giving me grief and I’ve just been too lazy to pull the box off and replace that. Also the fuel “pressure regulator” or something like that is faulty and allowing fuel to drain back into the tank and out of the injectors when the truck is shut off. Makes starting a little harder (not a big deal).

On top of all this, it’s too much truck for what I need anymore anyhow. I don’t have any big trailers anymore. I’d be hauling my boat (about 3000#) and/or my 2 place sled trailer with machines. The 1500HD gets poor mileage, as we all know.

Question #1. Guys who have these trucks. Now that I’m nearing 120k, is it going to start to nickel and dime me even more. I seem to remember older (late 90’s) Chevys were notorious for having to replace the head gasket, rear differential gasket, and a gasket on the tranny around 120k. My dad worked for the county and did this on all the county trucks right around 120K.

Question #2. If it’s time to move on, what do you guys like and dislike about your trucks. Obviously (from my previous posts) I’ll be looking at the Tundra. I’ve been curious about the ford with the 5.4L triton. I hate to even look at Dodge, but I’m open minded. So let’s hear it.

I’m still struggling with the idea. I HATE car payments. This truck has been paid off for some time now.

I have an 06 F150 with the 5.4. Love the truck. Hate the gas mileage.

1st, your Chevy is having one of two problems with the 4WD. The push button is bad($100) or the electric motor on the transfer case is out($500+). On our 99 we replaced both of those almost annually. GM never could figure out why they were burning out. Sucks, cuz the 4WD only got used about 150 miles a year. I’m of the mind set to dump vehicles when they start nickeling me.

As for new. Well, go test drive any of the big 3. They all ride like cars now and offer basically the same stuff. I personally would not buy a Tundra or any foreign pickup trying to be a full size.

The one option I really wish I had, a reverse camera. Test drove a pickup with it, didn’t think it was a big deal. Now I really regret not spending the additional $495.00.

Corey Waller at Hastings Ford is a great guy to deal with. Big G can get you setup with a Dodge. Both can be contacted here.

Have fun, I loved the shopping, hate the payments.

08 F150 Super Crew – 5.4L 16 mpg

I’m curious to know the same question’s….I have a 2003 1500hd and might think about getting rid of it here in the next year.

Yep Waller or Big G depending on your brand of choice!

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The one option I really wish I had, a reverse camera. Test drove a pickup with it, didn’t think it was a big deal. Now I really regret not spending the additional $495.00.

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Kooty, you wanna drive mine! The money I saved over you it was free anyways!

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1st, your Chevy is having one of two problems with the 4WD. The push button is bad($100) or the electric motor on the transfer case is out($500+). On our 99 we replaced both of those almost annually. GM never could figure out why they were burning out. Sucks, cuz the 4WD only got used about 150 miles a year. I’m of the mind set to dump vehicles when they start nickeling me.

As for new. Well, go test drive any of the big 3. They all ride like cars now and offer basically the same stuff. I personally would not buy a Tundra or any foreign pickup trying to be a full size.

The one option I really wish I had, a reverse camera. Test drove a pickup with it, didn’t think it was a big deal. Now I really regret not spending the additional $495.00.

Corey Waller at Hastings Ford is a great guy to deal with. Big G can get you setup with a Dodge. Both can be contacted here.

Have fun, I loved the shopping, hate the payments.

08 F150 Super Crew – 5.4L 16 mpg

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Kooty, we tested the push button controls yesterday. Wasn’t that. Will be testing teh acuator today. Hopefully that’ll be it so we can fix it.

Check these out Kooty !!

Back-up Camera

My ’05 F150 has been a great truck, no issues (knock on wood) and I am up to 91,000 miles. Its traveled all over the country pulling a heavy 620 ranger with no issues at all. Gas milelage not great especially pulling the boat but its a truck, I didn’t expect it! I have had one Dodge in my life and it was the worst truck I have ever owned adn will never go back. Not trying to start the truck war here I have just had great luck with all of my Fords over the years.

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I have just had great luck with all of my Fords over the years

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x2 I have had a 97, 99, and now a 08 F-150! Never had a problem and my 99 had 230,000 miles without any problems outside of maintenance!

SINCE THE BEGINNING OF LAST WEEK WE HAVE PUT IN SIX OR SO ENCODER MOTORS ON THE GM PICKUPS.DEFINETLY THE MOST COMMON PROBLEM. SOMETIMES THE 4X4 SWITCH OR THE T/C MODULE WILL GO BAD BUT NOT NEARLY AS OFTEN. ALSO WE HAVE HAD A FEW OF THE TRANSFER CASES HAVE INTERNAL PROBLEMS. IM A GM GUY, (CALL ME WHAT YOU WANT!) BUT HAVE OWNED A COUPLE DODGES. ALL HAVE GOOD AND BAD THINGS ABOUT THEM. PERSONALLY I THINK FROM WHAT YOU ARE DESCRIBING A 2005 OR NEWER CHEV OR GMC 1/2 TON PICKUP WITH A 5.3 WOULD BE A PERFECT FIT. PLENTY OF TOWING POWER AND DECENT MILEAGE.RIGHT NOW YOU CAN GET SOME GREAT DEALS ON SLIGHTLY USED GMS WITH 40,000 OR LESS MILES. JUST MY .02 WORTH!

I had a Ford F-150 and then an Expedition, and now a Silverado. I like the new Dodge’s too, I might have even bought a Ram over the Chevy except the deals on the Chevy’s were obscene, and the Ram was new so no deals.

Last week I had to drive to a funeral and back on Tuesday and Weds during the blizzard. I drove my truck on the way up, and on the way back drove my dad’s 05 F-150. I will tell you one thing I REALLY liked about the Chevy over the Ford, the fact the Chevy had an “auto” 4WD setting, and stability control. The roads would range from completely dry to completely iced, and in the Ford I didn’t feel comfortable in 2wd on the icy spots and in 4WD High on the dry spots. Maybe it wouldn’t hurt the truck to run the Ford in 4WD high on the dry roads, but I have heard you can burn up the gears pretty fast doing that (someone would know better than me). The Chevy just plugged in in Auto and rolled.

The Chevy also rode MUCH better, but the new Fords probably up the ride too I assume.

From what I have noticed on about 15 different work vehicles is that most of the failuers occur between 80-120K. After that they would hit 250-300K with minimal repairs, just basic maintinance. I myself am done buying new, my next vehicle will be a couple years old and let someone else take the main depreciation hit.

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I myself am done buying new, my next vehicle will be a couple years old and let someone else take the main depreciation hit.

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ONESTOUT, I totally agree with that statement. The $$$ saved and an extended warranty has served me well for years. My current 03 F150 w/5.4 does all I need it to It just turned 78K and has a lot left in it. Mileage hauling my rig is 13 to 14, and about 16 just cruising.but hey, it’s a truck. I know for a fact the newer ones get 18 to 20(cruising/not towing) depending on your driving styleGood luck and have fun shopping. BTW, I found my deal on carsoupand saved me a lot of time and gas Those 2 to 3 year old low mileage rigs are out there, but shop carefully if you go that way

Everything you’ve stated wrong, I’ve done to my ’97 Yukon that now has over 240,000 miles. I did sell it a few months back, not because I wanted to, but because my bro moved out of the country and gave me his 2004 at no cost. The Yuk is still running fine up north in Cook MN. I guess it depends on how good you are at doing basic wrench stuff, as I would not justify paying $100+ labor hours and did it myself. The biggest cost of your issues is labor, the rest is basic wrench work (air tools rock!). I apologize if this has been said above, but I saw this post on the other side today and just thought I’d give it go reply wise. Good luck! My 0.02, keep ‘er going.

And if you can live without the 4x, can’t you just pull the front drive shaft? Or is that an old school fix?

Definitely NOT time for a new truck. Any of the trucks mentioned,(Dodge, Ford, Chev etc.) properly taken care of will provide far more miles than what yours currently has. Obviously, there will be parts wear out. My last 4 trucks went 418,00 (was still running – junked because of excessive rust) 318,000 (still running), 260,000 (gave to my father in law – still runs like new) 284,000 (just talked to guy that bought it – running great) Also, while fuel pressure regulator does cause starting and running problems, if truck runs fine after starting, I would more likely suspect check valve on fuel pump. Even with encoder motor and other repairs, still cheaper than buying a new one.

Dad, isn’t it common for the fuel reg to go bad and have the fuel pump run excessively thus destroying the pump? I believe that is what happened to mine. Bad thing is, the reg is located under the upper intake manifold, crappy design for a $20 part that tends to fail!

Well, finally got my truck back. After weighing my options and talking with you guys, I’ve decided to keep it and shoot for 200K miles.

Turns out it was a faulty ground wire (corroded) in the 4X4 system. The water pump leak is fixed. Idler wheels have been replaced with new serpentine belts. So far, I’ve only had to repair and replace what I would call normal wear that tear parts. That and I have what I would consider to be an outstanding and honest mechanic here in Rochester. I’m going to roll the dice, maintain my truck, and hope for the best.

I really hate making payments. Assuming $400 a month payments and adding up the totals from maintenance. I’m still 21 months ahead financially since I’ve paid the truck off.

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I really hate making payments. Assuming $400 a month payments and adding up the totals from maintenance. I’m still 21 months ahead financially since I’ve paid the truck off.

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I agree with this logic. Once your vehicle is paid off, investing in some minor repairs can go a long ways. My SUV is a 2002 and I now have 265,000 miles on it. I keep thinking one of these days something major is going to break down but it doesn’t. I was hoping I wouldn’t have to buy new tires for it and it would break down so I could get a new SUV. Well it is still running strong, so this winter I ended up buying new tires for it after I got 60,000 miles on the last set. Now it’s a quest to see if I can get up to 300,000 miles on it. It just doesn’t make sense does it?

Not to highjack your post but last week the 4 wheel drive went out on my 2006 F-150. I turn the selector switch and nothing happens. I called the dealer and was told that since it has 46,000 miles on it I no longer have a warranty Are you kidding me? This is a 3 year old truck and your telling me that if it completely falls apart tommorow it is my problem! I could not be more irritated with this. The service guy told me I would have to bring it in and a diagnostic run on the 4 wheel drive for $100 and then they could tell me whats wrong. They suspect actuator, solenoid, vaccuum…blah,blah,blah. Whatever happened to lock hubs and manual engaged 4 wheel drive? I have owned five 4 wheel drive trucks – 3 with with manual engage, and 2 with push button/switch select engage. I never had a problem with my manual engage trucks however I have had nothing but problems with automatic 4 wheel drive systems i.e. won’t engage or disengage. I had a Toyota that the odometer quit working at 265,000 miles 3 years before I got it and never had a problem with it. 3 year old trucks should not be having this issue. I think I can fix this myself, but shouldn’t have to