What comes first – the scope or the rifle?

  • Randy Wieland
    Lebanon. WI
    Posts: 13623
    #205015

    I’ve been banking my event compensation for awhile and decided to get the scopes I’ve been wanting. Burris Extreme Tactical 6-24-50 B.-Mildot

    one will complete my outfitting on predator rifles (22-250 Howa). That’s where the question comes into play. What to put it on? I’m set for a primary caliber in .270 Been thinking hard about doing a .338 or a 7mm ultra mag build. As impracticable as it sounds, I’ve always wanted one custom for the pleasure of it. Then, Mr. Good Judgement steps in and I think about a long range back-up to have like a 7mm mag or a 25-06. I’ve never put the scope fore the gun before

    kooty
    Keymaster
    1 hour 15 mins to the Pond
    Posts: 18101
    #122244

    I’ve never either, even though a guy should. It seems you have the small end of the calibers dialed in. I’d probably lean towards the 7mm and up. However, a guy hates to have such a nice setup sitting around not geting a lot of use. Being a multiple gun owner is tough. Congrats on the new piece of equipment.

    neusch303
    Posts: 539
    #122247

    As a guy who owns a .338 Win Mag and a 8MM Rem Mag I can tell you they are very specific guns for very specific applications (BIG game). Plus they are not my goto weapons for long range (beyond 400 yards [maybe 500 yards]).

    You have a .270 already. Perhaps a .300 Ultra Mag if you want a long range yet impractical weapon.

    neusch303
    Posts: 539
    #122248

    The 25-06 is a great caliber and I have always held a soft spot for it. However if you look at the ballistics it is rather close to the .270. See my quote below from a previous post I made.

    In fact majority of calibers are ballistically close to each other. I honestly think having three rifles can pretty much cover a guy.

    #1. Something in a .223/22-250/.243

    #2. Something in a .270/.280/7MM

    #3. Something in a .325 WSM/8MM Mag/.338 Win Mag

    Of course that is not nearly as much fun as having 10 rifles (or more).

    Looking at these ballistics. This is why I always laugh when I see or hear of a guy carrying a .300 Mag to shoot a 100# deer at 50 yards (maybe 100 yards). A lot of guys just don’t understand ballistics and think bigger and faster will equal more knock down power when in fact it may equal less.

    Quote:


    So the choices get tougher. I narrowed it down to the .280 and the .243. Looking at the Nosler Partition 140gr (3000 ft/sec) and the Barnes TSX 100gr (3100 ft/sec) they are basically the same trajectory out to 500 yards (with in 2.5″ of each other). At 500 yards the .280 delivers 1120 ft/lbs of energy while the .243 delivers 800 ft/lbs of energy. Both are more than enough for a big wolf. Decisions decisions.


    kooty
    Keymaster
    1 hour 15 mins to the Pond
    Posts: 18101
    #122249

    Sorry to congest this thread, but I’d like to learn more about the Burris line. I’m not looking to break the bank so I’m comparing the Fullfield II vs. the Redfield and Vortex. I’m researching in the 4-12×40 magnification class or in the Burris case 4.5-14×42. I’m looking to spend at or under $300.00.

    What is the difference between the Fullfield II vs the E1? It looks like about $75.00 price wise. It looks to me like the 1″ tube vs 30mm and the reticles look different. What else am I missing?

    So many good optics out there now days compared to 20 years ago.

    Randy Wieland
    Lebanon. WI
    Posts: 13623
    #122256

    Kooty, the short answer is E1! Everything that Prostaffers have asked for in changes to the Fullfield, was delivered in the E1 line up.
    For cosmetic changes, there are two things that I didn’t care for in the Fulfield, and in now on the E1. 1. On the Fullfield, when turning the variable ring, the entire rear portion of the housing turned. So if you had a flip cover; it would rotate The E1 has the variable dial independent of the rear housing/optic and it remains stationary. 2. The Fullfield has a fine diamond cut on the turret and variable ring. For my hands, difficult to grip in wet and cold conditions. Typically I wear cotton or fine knit gloves once its below 20 degrees and they would slip when adjusting the variable. The E1 has a much better design in the ring and so much easier to grab.

    Onto the more important things:
    *The fullfield II is a 1″ tube – The E1 is available in 30mm and 25.4mm(1″)
    * The E1 had the Ballistic Plex etched into the glass the same way as the much higher end scopes. Other manufactures in the $400 and less range will usually use thin wire.

    * The internal lenses are on average about 25% larger than most competitors. The double wall system that Burris uses allows them to use a much larger internal optics. (this is what I would like to have a cross section of for illustration) Many manufactures won’t publish what their internal optic sizes are. For Burris, Fullfield II 25.4 mm = 13.8mm lens / In a 30mm tube = 15.4mm lens Just like any man that has bought his wife a quality rock for her ring, the better the stone, the greater the clarity and sparkle!

    * The E1 has the windage as part of the Ballist plex, the standard Fullfields did not
    * The E1 has illuminated Ballistic Plex option with a variable powered intensity. ( I love this in my XTR that I use at night)
    * All Burris optics are (internal and External) are coated with HiLume and you have over 99% light transmition *** This is a huge difference with many other manufactures. They coat exterior sides only to help their light transmission loss.

    * All Burris scopes are metal to metal locking and double springs for windage and elevation. This is a huge comparison when looking at magnum rounds and the everyday rigors of hunting. Riding on ATVs, getting banged around…superior resistance to failure.

    * Most manufacture use a (1) quality O-ring in the seal of their scope tube – Burris uses a method called Quad Seal the essentially doubles the seal.
    * Nearly all manufactures have Nitrogen filled scopes now. The difference is the grade and how its used. Burris only uses the highest laboratory grade and purges the tubes with nitrogen multiple times before sealing. Nitrogen naturally absorbs any moisture. By purging the tubes multiple times before sealing, your taking any residual moisture out first before the seal.

    * Burris scopes are WATER PROOF – not just water resistant

    * Testing – Burris tests EVERY scope before it is packaged and sent on its way. Most manufactures spot test or random quality tests with the 1 out of XX method. For Burris, this includes submersing in Hot water, vacuum tested, shock and recoil tested.

    Sorry to cut this a bit short on the differences, but I’m tight on time with a few appointments. Shoot me a PM with any more details you want.

    OH , BTW Burris has a $50.00 rebate going on with the E1 scopes. That brings them down to near the same price point as the Fullfield II.

    kooty
    Keymaster
    1 hour 15 mins to the Pond
    Posts: 18101
    #122257

    What will I see as a difference between the 30MM vs. 25MM tubes?

    Thanks!

    Randy Wieland
    Lebanon. WI
    Posts: 13623
    #122258

    A lot of light in low light conditions. Just like a funnel. It pours in, but is restricted to the narrowest opening.

    That is also where you see the cost difference between the 1″ & 30mm. The inner optics are larger in a 30. No doubt there are some great 1″ tube scopes. But once you use a 30mm in crappy or low light conditions, you’ll never go back to 1″

    Love this pic of their tube strength!

    tom_gursky
    Michigan's Upper Peninsula(Iron Mountain)
    Posts: 4751
    #122336

    I sure agree on the 30MM tube…

    This is my current “long range” choice…
    A Remington LSS in .280 Rem, with Luepold 4.5X14X44 LR (30MM)…I am an avid reloader and the .280 has a tad of an advantage over the .270…especially if you desire heavier bullet weights.
    I killed a nice Antelope at 305yds with a similar set up a few years back…140gr Nosler Accubond. Then I used a Browning Stainless Stalker in .280 with a Zeiss Conquest 3.5X10X44


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