Submerged Gun

Is this the line that is highly visible? Clear underwater but can see it really well above the surface of the water.

Transition is the line that once the sun light hits it, it turns gold above water…but invisible under water. I bought about 20 spools of it last year at wal mart when they were marked down to 2.99 from 17.99- I used one box- I would rather use plain mono around here in Iowa…

I don’t use a lot of transition because I prefer regular Vanish. I know a few guys that use it on the ice and swear by it. Yes, it is the line that is visable out of water and invisible underwater. Vanish has less strech than most Flourocarbon lines, actually just the right amount of strech I should say

Luke – What didn’t you like about Transition. Being as you and I fish a lot of the same waters that’d help a lot.

Thanks,
Dave

I used it on my baitcaster in 14lb. It was the red color. THe line did transition from clear to red but I had to many break offs If you get a backlash and kink it anywhere it would break while casting out or it would break in the middle of the retrieve. IT also just broke while fighting a bass. I respooled with power pro and use fc leader now and havent had a single breakoff or problem. I would not recommend it at all.

Mwal

I like the transition line. I’ve been using it for about 4 years, 2 of those year I used it on everything. It is a little weak. I also use seagar an about 1/2 time now and it is much tougher, but harder to see. At the end of last year I spooled up some of the berkleys trilene green fourocarbon line. After a little more use I hope to get out of the vanish and into the trilene.

Jason

i was just gonna ask the same question saw it at walmart last night but decided just to go with the regular mono for my ice rods but thanks for the reviews don’t sound like i will be buying any

I did a little more research on it and I’m glad I made the purchase. There are a lot of mixed reviews but for what I spent on it it’s worth a try. I’ll give you all my feedback come May!

Dave

Xpressman00- For 2.99 you can’t go wrong. That is what I paid for the stuff I bought. But if I was paying full price then this would be my review: I didn’t like the way it casts off of a spinning reel. I can see where it would be better live bait rigging- or vertical jigging- I also didn’t like the strength of it. More and more, I like the stretch of plain mono lines for open water fishing.

I’d be hard pressed to use the Vanish Transition if it was free.

I’ve tried it a couple of times on spinning reels – way too much memory, stiff, tons of birdsnests and twists, and the knot strength is very sketchy. There was a post on here not too long ago with a review and comparison of fluorocarbon lines, the Vanish came in last in just about every category.

I’d much rather pay for good quality line than use this stuff at $2.99 a spool.

Waxy

I used it for about 4 outings and I thought it broke very easily on the hook sets. I went back to vanish in the same pound test no problems.

I have been using it for about 3 years on my crank bait rods and really have no complaints, I also use it on my tube rods when fishing smallies again with no problems. I have used other fluorocarbons and don’t see much difference I do like the visability.

Too much memory in my opinion, and tough to get a knot to hold at times…But the regular Vanish is an exellent line. How can they be so different??

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Too much memory in my opinion, and tough to get a knot to hold at times…But the regular Vanish is an exellent line. How can they be so different??

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There is a diffence, no doubt. I am not sure why transition is stiffer. It reminds me of the original Berkley Vanish that came out. I love the concept behind transition, I do wish it was as user friendly and regular Vanish line.

One thing you guys that fish bass should make sure you try is Crystal Fireline. I have been using it for 2 years on the ice in extremely clear water and under the ice walleye will hit on Crystal without using a flourocarbon leader. That really suprised me. The stuff is very tough obviously, but on my tip-up set ups it has made a huge difference.

On the Great Lakes I did add in a Flourocarbon leader and that seemed to really make a difference while pulling/casting cranks. I have always liked fireline but this Crystal has really impressed me over the last two years in clean water

I guess my biggest concern is the true transition of this line. I looked the the Flourocarbon post and it seemed the the pictures of VT seemed to be more visible underwater than any other.

I know that there are a lot of factors that go into the pics they posted and that it will differ lake to lake.

I guess since my main application will be ripping crankbaits and spinnerbaits. Does this really matter since the baits will be moving at a high rate of speed? I’ll will be using this line for bass and northern fishing. Do you think this discounted line purchase will cut the mustard or should it go back to Wally World?

I have used Vanish Transition in the past but have been using P-line for about a year now. The line worked but I believe I had more break offs with it compared to XL. I also never noticed a big difference in the amount of fish I caught compared to other people in the boat using XL.

Any of you ever submerge your duck gun before? Any advise on anything preventative after it happens? thanks

did you take a digger today in the swamp?

Slop, what gun? Anyways, does not really matter. A complete disassembly is in order. Then dry it completely-every spring, trigger group, etc.. Wipe it down with a microfiber or very absorbant towel. Put all the pieces in a small room and run a dehumidifier. Then wipe each individual piece a small cotton rag/patch soaked in alcohol-not for the wood. The put a thin coat of oil on everything and reassemble. Key is to dry all the parts completely, clean it competely, re-lube with oil or grease depending on what part/mechanism it is, and then reassemble. The furniture if wood will need a coat of saddle soap or linseed oil after it dries completely. Depending on what it is it might be best to get it to a competent gunsmith ASAP. And one that will make it his first priority. Submersion is usually bad. Good luck Man!

Unless you own a Benelli M-1…

Just kidding Slop The above advice is right on!

i own a m2 and that thing is never dry…

If it’s a auto, don’t forget about the spring in the stock

Bird hunting in the rain all day must be similar. I Completely disassemble, dry everything with towel,compressed air if you have it or just blow into the tight spaces, oil everything and leave apart over night. I use spray oil so I really blast the tight areas. That’s what I always do. If I was far away from a cleaning station I would even consideer shooting it a time or two to start the internal drying process.

done that a few times… .. but a good tear down and cleaning and oiled gun will be as good as new!

Don’t forget to remove your choke as well……..