How close to the weedtops?

Hello all,

As we approach the fall period, I am getting excited to try throwing more horizontal baits — spinnerbaits, cranks, jerkbaits, etc. I fish a lot of lakes with extensive weed flats where the weeds top out, I don’t know, 3-8 feet below the surface. In the past, I’ve had marginal success in these areas because (I think) I’ve been throwing the wrong baits.

Ideally, how close do you want the lure to be to the weedtops? My guess is *just* barely into some of the weeds (to get that reaction strike when you pull off a weed), but I don’t really have the cash to spend a billion bucks on crankbaits that run the *perfect* depth. In general, how close is “good enough”?

Also, what do you do about pike? Just deal with the eventual bite-offs? Has anyone tried some of the very thin titanium leaders to help with bite-offs? I was throwing a swimbait for a bit last night, caught two bass on it in quick order and then went through FOUR of them on pike. That gets expensive real quick…

I love fishing weed flats like that, especially if it’s cabbage. I agree with your guess in that you want to just barely get into the tops of those weeds. I like wide wobble, square bill cranks in those situations, but spinnerbaits and jerkbaits are certainly good too. Spinnerbaits work great for bass, but they work even better for pike so I tend not to cast them much because of that. Once you feel your lure hit and/or get caught on a weed, give it a quick rip to get it free and often times you’ll get a strike right then.

As for pike, it depends on what lures and line and equipment that you’re using. Personally speaking, for cranks I run a medium action baitcaster with 12lb mono and no leader. Since I like to run some bigger/fatter cranks, I don’t ever have problems with getting bit off by a pike. In fact, I can’t even think of the last time I’ve gotten bit off. But if you’re casting some smaller profile baits and on spinning gear, it wouldn’t hurt to use a leader.

The biggest tip I can give you when casting weeds like that with a crankbait or spinnerbait, is to do periodic 1 second long pauses. You will catch more fish on the pause vs on the straight retrieve.

First thing, and most important – is to only target the greenest weeds in the Fall. If they are light green, yellow or brown keep moving until you find the most lush green weeds because that’s where the fish bunch up late in the year.

I throw a 3/4 oz Chatterbait that will get down and can go into a lot of the weeds – not just above them. A Chatterbait will typically get farther in than a crankbait that has two treble hooks.

Keep reeling as you feel the weeds and even though the rod temporarily loads, if you keep reeling it will eventually pull free. That’s when many strikes occur. I find 3/8 and even 1/2 oz too light to do this effectively. 3/4 oz is not too heavy, although you will need a MH rod and possibly stronger line. Project Z is a really good Chatterbait for weed cover. You’ll have to experiment how far you can actually get into the thicker stuff, but it pays off.

As far as pike, get “Bob’s Crankbait Leader” from Wayzata Bait and Tackle. It’s a shorter leader that is less visible and doesn’t drag the lure down like a lot of longer leaders do. Most pike bite-offs happen just above the lure knot and this leader helps a lot. Doesn’t prevent all bite-offs but probably 90%.

Dealing with pike around here while you’re bass fishing is simply something that you have to tolerate. I’ve been doing it for almost 20 years. Can’t even count the quantity of lures lost from bite offs, not to mention how many hollow soft body frogs they’ve also ruined. Some dirtier waters will still be OK if you put a leader on (depending on the lure) but in clear water I think a leader can limit the number of bites you’ll get.

BTW, the pike are on a rampage right now. With these cooler temps, they’re snapping at just about everything that moves.

carmike wrote:

Also, what do you do about pike? Just deal with the eventual bite-offs?

Uni uni 20# flouro

FishBlood&RiverMud wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>carmike wrote:</div>
Also, what do you do about pike? Just deal with the eventual bite-offs?

Uni uni 20# flouro

This ^

FishBlood&RiverMud wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>carmike wrote:</div>
Also, what do you do about pike? Just deal with the eventual bite-offs?

Uni uni 20# flouro

Will Roseberg wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>FishBlood&RiverMud wrote:</div>

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>carmike wrote:</div>
Also, what do you do about pike? Just deal with the eventual bite-offs?

Uni uni 20# flouro

This ^

Agreed!!!

Mark

“BTW, the pike are on a rampage right now. With these cooler temps, they’re snapping at just about everything that moves.”

…even a 2.75 inch Ned

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I’m currently using #15 flouro leaders and they bite through it with ease. I have some 100 lb. + sitting around for muskies…maybe that will be enough.

carmike wrote:

I’m currently using #15 flouro leaders and they bite through it with ease. I have some 100 lb. + sitting around for muskies…maybe that will be enough.

Um. Ok?

carmike wrote:

I’m currently using #15 flouro leaders and they bite through it with ease. I have some 100 lb. + sitting around for muskies…maybe that will be enough.

That’s the alternative and for me was overkill. After trying 15 lb Co-polymer (that pike bit thru), Muskie leaders (that we’re too heavy/affected action), tied wire line (which was a pain to tie), etc… the best alternative for me were the small crankbait leaders at Wayzata Bait. Best to experiment and see what you like best.

I use 12 lb braid to 15 lb fluoro and as far as how deep into the weeds goes, if you are feeling your lure tick the weeds you aren’t going deep enough. I know I’m at the right depth if I’m feeling my lure ticking weeds and every now and then getting hung up in them. That’s when you rip it free and many times you will get a strike right after ripping it free. Frydog mentioned a key detail for this time of year as well. Green weeds!