Recently, this faucet started acting up. I can turn it on and off, but if I tightly crank it to off, it behaves like it’s stripped out (i.e. I can’t crank it down, it’ll just keep turning).
Are these repairable or do I just have to replace it?
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You are better off replacing the whole thing, and spend the extra $12 or so and get the good anti siphon freeze proof assembly. I rebuilt mine, just out of luck the old guy who owned the Ace hardware locally had the guts, which is just a 16″ or so rod with rubber washers and threads at the end which screw into the tube assembly. Mine were fine but both wouldn’t shutoff, and come to find out lighting struck the neighbor kids bicycle out on the sidewalk and traveled through the ground and melted the washers in mine. The joint is about 16-20″ back from the outside wall, and is either sweated on or a threaded coupler is on that it screws into. If its above a finished ceiling its a huge pain. I cut my copper back into the laundry room and pulled the whole pipe outside, redid the faucet, and pushed it back in and soldered together,instead of destroying my ceiling.
Is the knob loose and spinning or the guts of the valve?
Is the knob loose and spinning or the guts of the valve?
It’s the guts.
Replacing is best option unless it’s difficult to access inside, repair should be an option, you will have to decide what is best for your situation.
The whole guts of that should come out easy. Unscrew the packing nut and the whole rod and packing rings that seals it off on the inside should come out. If it’s easy to replace I would get a whole new unit. The woodford valves have always been good to me. This is what the guts look like
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Before buying the repair kit pull the guts and make sure the threads on the body aren’t mangled. If so you’ll likely have to replace everything.
I pulled it apart. I’m just gonna replace. I hate plumbing, though. This’ll likely be a distaster with lots of swearing.
Accessible inside? Soldered? Threaded?
It’s accessible. It’s got one of those “shark bite” things on it now. 3/4″ copper.
Can remove and replace with a shark bite thing. I suggest the newer quarter turn style frost valve.
I just did this same thing. I also added a dedicated shutoff valve about a foot before the sillcock hole in my crawl space. Sharkbites make for quick easy work!
I pulled it apart. I’m just gonna replace. I hate plumbing, though. This’ll likely be a distaster with lots of swearing.
I’ve been down that road.
Can remove and replace with a shark bite thing. I suggest the newer quarter turn style frost valve.
I’ll have to see what Menard’s or HD has.
Been a very good lawn faucet season so far. Im guessing nobody winterize them last fall. I probably replace more froze and broke freeze proof lawn faucets than anything. Couple of replacement tips. Make sure there is a good accessible inside shut off for the lawn faucet and that shut off has a drain on it. If you put in a frost proof make sure it is well pitched in the right direction. Do not use sharkbite fittings. When they fail and flood your basement its known as being “sharkbit”.
Been a very good lawn faucet season so far. Im guessing nobody winterize them last fall. I probably replace more froze and broke freeze proof lawn faucets than anything. Couple of replacement tips. Make sure there is a good accessible inside shut off for the lawn faucet and that shut off has a drain on it. If you put in a frost proof make sure it is well pitched in the right direction. Do not use sharkbite fittings. When they fail and flood your basement its known as being “sharkbit”.
procedure to winterize? Sounds like you need some insulation in your wall around your fitting 
So @MikeW22, what’s a fair price to have a plumber replace one of these things?
if you decide to have a plumber do this, spend a bit more and have them plumb hot water faucet if you don’t already have one outside. Just a suggestion, I did it and don’t regret it one bit. I do alot of garden canning in my garage and well as other things. Sure is nice not to carry water from the house
So @MikeW22, what’s a fair price to have a plumber replace one of these things?
Price can vary a lot depending on what needs to be done and access to piping. Pretty common repair is replace lawn faucet and inside shut off for $550-$600.
Should ad that is our pricing. Ive heard pricing out there anywhere from $50 to $1500 for the same work.
To winterize ours we have shut off valves, its easy you shut off the valve inside then open the faucet out side until water is done dripping. Reverse procedure in the spring.
Pretty common repair is replace lawn faucet and inside shut off for $550-$600.
Ouch.
To winterize ours we have shut off valves, its easy you shut off the valve inside then open the faucet out side until water is done dripping. Reverse procedure in the spring.
We have frost free faucets. The valve is back in the house. Pipe drains clean after every use. No winterizing needed.
-J.
There is definitely still potential for frost free valves to freeze, depending on insulation installation and location, finished or un finished, heat source. All depends on the situation.
And they fail at some point then freeze up and break. I have a scrap pile full of frost proof lawn faucets that failed for one reason or another. Make sure there is a good inside shut off valve for them.
Make sure there is a good inside shut off valve for them.
Will do, Mike! Never have checked. 
-J.
Most are in the laundry room follow the pipes in
And they fail at some point then freeze up and break. I have a scrap pile full of frost proof lawn faucets that failed for one reason or another. Make sure there is a good inside shut off valve for them.
And, remove the hose in the winter to allow it to drain.
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