I haven’t been using the Sufix 832 Advanced lead core line on my rigs. Been using the Tough Line Micro-lead on my walleye rods and have been very happy with that so far.
On my salmon rods, I’ve been running the old Sufix lead core. A few years back they had a sale on the regular Sufix lead core and I bought a bunch. Still using it on my salmon rods.
If you are going to run the Advanced 832 or the Tough line Micro-lead lead core, you will need to put a swivel between the lead core and the backer line to prevent line twist. Line twist will kill both of these line prematurely.
The simplest knot I’ve found for tying advanced lead cores to a swivel is to simply double over the line and then tie and overhand knot. Your doing this to create a loop in the end of your line. Once you have that loop, run it thru the swivel, pull the swivel thru the loop and pull tight. Very simple and you do not have to remove the lead from the sheath to tie it which is great because pulling a small section of lead out from the advanced lead cores is almost impossible.
If you run the older style lead core lines, then you can get away with tying an Albright knot from the backer to the lead core.
As for running a section of mono between the power pro backer and the lead core, I’ve been getting away from that as much as possible. I still have a few lead core setups that are not switched over yet but thats going to change soon.
The setup I’m changing over to has my 50# braid tied directly to the lead core or copper using and albright knot. The reason why is less chance for failure within the system due to more knots than necessary. One other advantage is the knot between the braid & lead core is smaller and moves thru your line guides and reel guide easier.
As for knots, I always tie an Albright when tying backers & leaders to lead core or copper. IMHO this is exactly where the albright works best. Lines of dissimilar diameters are what the albright knot was designed for. (as stated above, I don’t use advanced lead cores for salmon fishing, only walleye rigs for now)
It’s not really necessary, but if you want a little extra secure feeling from the fear of knot failure, add a drop of super glue to the knot.
If you switch your planer boards to the Offshore OR-18 snap, then you can snap directly to the braid without damaging the line. I use Church Tackle walleye boards with the OR-18 snaps. Unfortunately, they don’t come that way.
If you go this route, then you will also want to switch out the spring loaded pin at the back of the board. They come with a plastic pin and the braid will cut thru that plastic in no time, making it dang near impossible to pull the pin. Blood Run tackle company sells sst replacement pins. (or if you know a good machinist, they’re really easy to make. I make my own)
Or just stay with the 5-6′ section of mono between the backer braid and the lead core. More knots but less money spent replacing the pin and line release snap.
As for the 18# Sufix Advanced lead core, I wouldn’t be to concerned about its strength. As long as you can keep line twist from damaging the line, it should be plenty strong.
The Tuff Line Micro Lead is stronger in my opinion, (especially after line twist has damaged the line) but Tuff Line does not sink at the faster rate so no matter what, when it comes to lead core lines, your always giving up something to get something.
One final note concerning braid and the OR-18 release. To prevent line slippage, run the braid behind the stainless steel pin, then pinch the line together both in front & behind the pin, now spin the board 3-5 times before snapping the release to the braid. If you do not do this, the braid will eventually slip inside the release and cut a groove into the plastic. Not good!
Once you get the hang of this, snapping on a board is still fast and easy.
Most if not all of this info can be found on the Blood Run Tackle website.
Art Green was the guy who clued me into these tips and the Blood Run site:
Blood Run Tackle Fishing Tips
