HELP! Verify fuel line connections on Strikemaster Solo auger.

Seemed like a simple job but now my auger won’t run.

I have a 3HP Strikemaster Laser Pro. It’s always ran great but for the last two seasons I’ve noticed gas leaking down the powerhead to the auger bit. Not a major leak but enough to make things wet. Figured it was probably due for new fuel lines (2010 model). Before installing new lines I did fire up the auger (with last years gas in it) and it started and ran like a top. I’ve always store it wet with some SeaFoam and never had any troubles starting it the next season.

I started by removing the tank to get better access to the lines. This was my first time doing this. I decided not to replace the main fuel line that comes out of the tank to the carb (part #7 in diagram) and just replace the small clear lines. Purchased new Tygon 3/16″ OD x 3/32″ ID and replaced the line that goes from the breather through the tank (and up to cap), from primer bulb to tank (return line I believe)? and line that goes from bottom of carb to primer. This was the line that I think was originally leaking as it came off very easy. This line was also very stiff and appeared to be a black rubber (not clear vinyl like other lines).

Get everything back together and added fuel to the tank (fresh 91 octane non-ethanol with Amsoil Sabre at 50:1…what I have always run). Before I even fire it up I notice gas is leaking somewhere. Figured I didn’t put a hose on right but they all look good. Remove air filter cover and filter. Looks like gas is coming from the carb inlet. It stops eventually and after I clean it up I proceed to starting it. Won’t fire up so I figure it’s flooded. Hold the throttle wide open and it eventually fires. Feather the throttle a bit and let it come down to idle and it stops. Start again and same thing (won’t idle). Idle screw is where I always have it but figured I would increase it. Eventually had it all the way in and it would still barely idle but would run higher RPMS fine. Called it quits for the night.

Tried again tonight with not much success. Got it to run for a little bit but then nothing after many pulls. Also started leaking out carb again but eventually stopped. One thing I thought I might have hooked up wrong was the lines to the primer bulb. There are two nipples on the bulb with one being longer then the other. I have the longer nipple hose going to the tank. I believe this is the return line? The shorter nipple goes to the connection on the bottom of the carb. If this is hooked up correctly then I believe it’s suppose to pull fuel through the carb then excess goes back to the tank? Correct me if I’m wrong. I have also checked the spark plug (looked good…very wet). Also checked it for spark and it was good.

I don’t know much about carburetors but is it possible there is something wrong with the float (stuck maybe)? Don’t know why that would just happen but maybe when I had the powerhead on the bench I laid it down incorrectly. I have pulled the plug out a few times and it’s always wet and there is fuel in the cylinder. I’m assuming it’s getting to much gas. Will let it sit again tonight and try again tomorrow.

Any other ideas?

Thanks

Attachments:

1. 

   solo_tank.jpg
   

2. 

   hoses.jpg
   

to verify that the carb is okay,pull the primer line off of it and plug it.
start the engine and see if it idles okay and revs up okay,if so,there is something wrong with either the primer bulb itself,( i get it that is new,but that means nothing in todays world ) or it is hooked up wrong.

if the engine still floods out at idle,then yes,there is something wrong with the carb.
those small carbs usually do not have floats,they are of the diaphram type,fairly simple to work on if you are brave enough to try it.

if you dont want to try it,and you dont have anyone near you,google jacks small engines,most times you can buy a new carb for under forty bucks.
I will look for other links for carbs for you and post them.
sheldon

or try, drockicecenter.com

I would start by making sure you have the lines on correctly. Then make sure that the air line in the fuel tank is fine. If all checks out carb time. a rebuild kit is about 15. I would pay the 80 for the complete carb myself.

It sounds to me like you have the primer lines backwards. I have never seen a return line on a primer.

Thank you everyone for the information. Update on my auger.

After verifying fuel line connections were correct I was still having issues with gas leaking out of the carb. Talked to Drock and they recommended a carb kit. I was a little hesitant about doing this myself since I never have. Found a few videos online going over the procedure and it didn’t look too bad. After installing the carb kit the motor starts better, idles fine, and doesn’t leak any fuel. The old diaphragm was quite stiff compared to the new. I’m guessing that was the problem. I also ordered the new style fuel tank vent (red in color vs original white with black rubber piece). I think there might have been problems with the original vent also.

So if anyone is having problems with their Solo I highly recommend putting a carb kit in it. It was pretty easy and only $13.00: http://www.drockicecenter.com/k20-wta-solo-carburetor-kit-walbro-carb-kit/

Thanks!