Friend of mine was hesitating on purchasing an 1198 because he said he wasnt sure how effective it would be in deep water – in particular depths around 100′. Does anyone know if there are limitations – or if there is a set-up that is more effective than others for deeper water. Thanks in advance.
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Friend of mine was hesitating on purchasing an 1198 because he said he wasnt sure how effective it would be in deep water – in particular depths around 100′. Does anyone know if there are limitations – or if there is a set-up that is more effective than others for deeper water. Thanks in advance.
I’ve used mine (997) in depths up to 350′ without issue. In fact I watched a Steelhead (on the 2D) come up from 140′ to 90′ and crush a spoon. It was pretty cool.
Check out this video. You’ll see it even works at high speed. (Click on the image)
With the smile on your face, I take it you like your boat!! 
what about in regards to keeping the boat over structure below – is it accurate in its detail? he was telling me that from what he read he would have to purchase a Garmin gps in order to truly know where – say a sunken boat/ship – was for sure. thanks again.
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what about in regards to keeping the boat over structure below – is it accurate in its detail? he was telling me that from what he read he would have to purchase a Garmin gps in order to truly know where – say a sunken boat/ship – was for sure. thanks again.
I’m not sure I fully understand your question. With side imaging and down imaging I’m able to find and sit on top of structure.
I have noticed the Navonics mapping software to be a little off. However the Lake Master mapping software is pretty accurate depending on the body of water/high def maps.
The 1198 does have it’s own GPS. Not sure why he would need a Garmin GPS as well.
so the depth of the water is not a factor when hovering over structure? or at what point do you need a different type transducer? thanks again.
The H-Birds have a map offset that can be setup if the coordinates are off some from the map chip ( not all mapping chips are dead nuts ). It is not unusual to have this with any mapping chip software.
Have you been able to try it up in the 40’s mid to upper MPH? I’m interested in waters a bit more adverse as well.
I’m just curious?
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so the depth of the water is not a factor when hovering over structure? or at what point do you need a different type transducer? thanks again.
SI only has one type of transducer, on mine depth has not been an issue
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Have you been able to try it up in the 40’s mid to upper MPH? I’m interested in waters a bit more adverse as well.
I’m just curious?
Are you talking SI or 2D? In 2D I have run up 60mph with no issues
SI works best below 10mph
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Have you been able to try it up in the 40’s mid to upper MPH? I’m interested in waters a bit more adverse as well.
I’m just curious?
Are you talking SI or 2D? In 2D I have run up 60mph with no issues
SI works best below 10mph
X2 I am not as fast as Moreyes …upto 50 MPH not one issue reading bottom in 2D with just the SI ducer and no extra high speed ducer.
Ok, did HB change the transducer since the 2d came out in the 987’s w/ the SI and a year ago with the addition of the DI?
The transducer for DI and SI are the same as when they where introduced, for your model I would rec. going to Humminbirds website and look up your unit and look up the transducer. But on my 1197 it was just a software update.
I did not find a 987 on the Bird website 
Moreyes is right it was just a software update for DI. No other changes are needed.
The 987csi was the first that came out with 2d and SI.
Then with a software upgrade last Jan, they let us pioneers for this technology in on the DI that everyone else was raving about!
I down loaded the Jan update and on the water first of last year the DI I Love!
Mine since it was new will lose the fot reading if I go over wave or turn the boat in water other than rather smooth. Sometimes it will return and most of the times I have to come down off plane to get my depths back.
My speeds from say upper 30’s to low 50’s, is when I have the issue.
I’ve gone through all the transducer adjustments as well.
Got a picture of it mounted on the transom sounds like it is coming out of the water
I’ve been all over this in the last year and 1/2.
I provided Pics to Jason H. on the Humminbird board here as well as the other HB boards. I did adjustments and it had gotten some better but I still have issues. 
Can you say you never lose depths for a time? Never means never. 
In a bit of rougher water or in somewhat of a turn I will especially will. These chances of losing it are increased with speeds greater from 35 through 55 mph. To add it will almost always happen then as well.
Either way, are you in an aluminum or fiberglass boat? And why should it matter. Yea I know the odvious answers. 
This is just an item I keep trying to work through and resolve to get it right. I think I should not have the higher speed issues that I have for depth. That’s my opinion since 1996/1997 when I bought into the new software of SI and DI that was added to 2D. 
I relay on the depth as much as anything when navigating the waters from Canada to Mexico!!! 
The rest of the fun items that HB allows me are just, well, that is what helps make the trips fun! 
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I’ve been all over this in the last year and 1/2.
I provided Pics to Jason H. on the Humminbird board here as well as the other HB boards. I did adjustments and it had gotten some better but I still have issues.
Can you say you never lose depths for a time? Never means never.
In a bit of rougher water or in somewhat of a turn I will especially will. These chances of losing it are increased with speeds greater from 35 through 55 mph. To add it will almost always happen then as well.
Either way, are you in an aluminum or fiberglass boat? And why should it matter. Yea I know the odvious answers.
This is just an item I keep trying to work through and resolve to get it right. I think I should not have the higher speed issues that I have for depth. That’s my opinion since 1996/1997 when I bought into the new software of SI and DI that was added to 2D.
I relay on the depth as much as anything when navigating the waters from Canada to Mexico!!!
The rest of the fun items that HB allows me are just, well, that is what helps make the trips fun!
Denny, I expecienced the same things you are talking about (losing bottom lock). I installed a $78 high speed transducer and a Y Cable. I did this mainly for the reason that I fish the river year round. The odds of hitting a stick or chunk of ice is high and the thought of trashing a $234 transducer is unacceptable for me. So I installed a $54 high speed 2D transducer and now have no issues loosing depth at high speed (48 MPH top speed). Except for the time a stick or something broke my transducer mount. Somewhere I’ve got pics oh how it’s mounted. I’ll try and find them.
To answer your glass vs. tin question. In a glass boat, you can install a Thru Hull puck vs. having a transducer hanging off the back of the boat.
I have tin Crestliner 182 TS the only time I loose bottom is if my transducer gets kicked up. Which does happen in really rough water running to fast.
The reason tin can make a difference is most tin boats have rivets that cause turbulence which can effect the transducer reading at speed.
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The H-Birds have a map offset that can be setup if the coordinates are off some from the map chip ( not all mapping chips are dead nuts ). It is not unusual to have this with any mapping chip software.
I don’t suppose you remember how to do this?
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I’ve been all over this in the last year and 1/2.
I provided Pics to Jason H. on the Humminbird board here as well as the other HB boards. I did adjustments and it had gotten some better but I still have issues.
Can you say you never lose depths for a time? Never means never.
In a bit of rougher water or in somewhat of a turn I will especially will. These chances of losing it are increased with speeds greater from 35 through 55 mph. To add it will almost always happen then as well.
Either way, are you in an aluminum or fiberglass boat? And why should it matter. Yea I know the odvious answers.
This is just an item I keep trying to work through and resolve to get it right. I think I should not have the higher speed issues that I have for depth. That’s my opinion since 1996/1997 when I bought into the new software of SI and DI that was added to 2D.
I relay on the depth as much as anything when navigating the waters from Canada to Mexico!!!
The rest of the fun items that HB allows me are just, well, that is what helps make the trips fun!
Denny, I expecienced the same things you are talking about (losing bottom lock). I installed a $78 high speed transducer and a Y Cable. I did this mainly for the reason that I fish the river year round. The odds of hitting a stick or chunk of ice is high and the thought of trashing a $234 transducer is unacceptable for me. So I installed a $54 high speed 2D transducer and now have no issues loosing depth at high speed (48 MPH top speed). Except for the time a stick or something broke my transducer mount. Somewhere I’ve got pics oh how it’s mounted. I’ll try and find them.
To answer your glass vs. tin question. In a glass boat, you can install a Thru Hull puck vs. having a transducer hanging off the back of the boat.
Thanks Wade,
I’ve thought about doing that, but I think I’ll wait till I plant a new one on the dash and move the 987 to the bow.
I’m thinking though I’ll still wait and see what the 2012’s (10 to 12 inch screens, maybe an I-piolt connection) will do. However I’m not waiting much past that, I think anyway.
In response to a ducer kicking up, I’ve never had that happen on the HB, but the Lowrance is an other story. Even broke it!
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The H-Birds have a map offset that can be setup if the coordinates are off some from the map chip ( not all mapping chips are dead nuts ). It is not unusual to have this with any mapping chip software.
I don’t suppose you remember how to do this?
Not off the top of my head…..The manual explains how…. I`ll have to dig my manual out and then let you know
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The H-Birds have a map offset that can be setup if the coordinates are off some from the map chip ( not all mapping chips are dead nuts ). It is not unusual to have this with any mapping chip software.
I don’t suppose you remember how to do this?
It is under the chart options.
WHEW….Thanks Mojo I thought I was going to have to read the manual. 
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