Hummingbird 1157 install questions

  • Tillerman1
    minnesota
    Posts: 16
    #1295015

    Has anyone installed the 1157 side imaging unit on a Lund 2025 Pro V? Did you use the two transducer option with a y cable or were you able to place the single transducer so it will read both left and right? If so do you have suggestions? It looks to be a tricky installation on straight transom aluminum boats.

    jhalfen
    Posts: 4179
    #857108

    Do you mean an 1197, which is a Side Imaging unit, or the 1157, which is not?

    Rigging an 1157 will be a no-brainer, as the sonar is only looking down.

    jhalfen
    Posts: 4179
    #857114

    If you did mean an 1197, here’s one Pro V install with a Y cable. In this instance, the Y cable is used to link a standard high speed transducer (for 2D work) and a HD-SI transducer that is mounted above the bottom of the transom to protect it from debris.

    Whittsend is running a 997 on his Lund. He’ll probably chime in shortly.

    mojogunter
    Posts: 3301
    #857149

    I had a 2025 with a 1197 unit on it that I just ran the single transducer. It worked perfectly with no issues with SI. You will be fine.

    Tillerman1
    minnesota
    Posts: 16
    #857159

    Thanks guys. My mistake it is a 1197. The guys at the Hummingbird booth at NW Show said the livewell screens may interfere. I will probably leave my Lowrance unit in for high speed running. Does the new Hummingbird Lake Master chip run any faster than the Lowrance LM chip?

    Thanks
    Tillerman1

    jhalfen
    Posts: 4179
    #857163

    You won’t notice any performance issues at all with your Lakemaster-Humminbird chip in your 1197. I’ve run at 40+ mph with a really tight zoom and the processor has kept pace perfectly.

    whittsend
    Posts: 2389
    #857191

    Try to get your SI ‘ducer lower than all other junk… You can add a bump out bracket and/or mash the livewell intake screen to help matters if you are concerned about it.

    Your install will be similar to my Lund Explorer 1800.

    Livewell screen might be a little bit of an issue. I did mash the intake and have not had any problems to date with the livewell pumps. SI shots that I get are awesome. I do not use the extra high speed transducer, although I do have other rarely-used transducers still mounted on the back of the boat (higher than my SI ducer). I did mount mine fairly close to the centerline/bottom of the transom with zero issues to date.

    Whitt


    Wade Boardman
    Grand Rapids, MN
    Posts: 4453
    #857196

    Quote:


    Try to get your SI ‘ducer lower than all other junk… You can add a bump out bracket and/or mash the livewell intake screen to help matters if you are concerned about it.

    Your install will be similar to my Lund Explorer 1800.

    Livewell screen might be a little bit of an issue. I did mash the intake and have not had any problems to date with the livewell pumps. SI shots that I get are awesome. I do not use the extra high speed transducer, although I do have other rarely-used transducers still mounted on the back of the boat (higher than my SI ducer). I did mount mine fairly close to the centerline/bottom of the transom with zero issues to date.

    Whitt


    I am getting interference from something on my transom. That intake screen may have to go (or get mashed). I’m 99.9% certain that’s my problem. Seems odd though since it only blocks maybe 1/5 of the transducers field of view.

    whittsend
    Posts: 2389
    #857213

    Ruger – do you have any screenshots to show what that interference looks like??? I’d be interested out of curiosity…

    Mike

    Wade Boardman
    Grand Rapids, MN
    Posts: 4453
    #857273

    Quote:


    Ruger – do you have any screenshots to show what that interference looks like??? I’d be interested out of curiosity…Mike


    I don’t Mike. I’ll get you some this weekend.

    KirtH
    Lakeville
    Posts: 4063
    #857303

    I have mine mounted on board, and I had some interference from my pick up, I doubled up the thickness of the board to space mine back further about an inch, problem solved

    whittsend
    Posts: 2389
    #857312

    Moreyes… Same question to you… Any screenshots of the interference problem that you used to have before the alteration?

    Thanks,

    Mike

    KirtH
    Lakeville
    Posts: 4063
    #857453

    No I dont, the right side was black on the screen the other perfect

    Wade Boardman
    Grand Rapids, MN
    Posts: 4453
    #858198

    Mike, here are your screen shots. It looks like when I’m horizontal, it works OK. When I’m “plowing water” with my bow up, I get interference. Once in a great while it’s great. However not all the time. The issue is on the left side.

    Also you’ll see when I’m in a mud area vs. hard bottom sandy area, it seems I need to crank up my sensitivity to about 13-14. Thoughts?






    whittsend
    Posts: 2389
    #858463

    Wade, thanks for posting… I occasionally get my left side showing slightly darker than my right. I’ve always thought it might be due to the ~1″ of intake that is in the way, but its never been enough of a problem to take action.. You are right, softer bottom areas and/or deeper areas tend to show the problem more often than hard bottom areas.

    I’ve never had those horizontal interference streaks, but sometimes I do need to crank the sensitivity a touch due to the (very slightly) darker left side.

    I’m sure a bumpout or removal of the intake would solve the issue. I’ve contemplated taking that intake off completely and somehow fasting the metal mesh over that hole, but it just hasn’t been a big enough problem to date to justify any action….

    Mike

    Wade Boardman
    Grand Rapids, MN
    Posts: 4453
    #858470

    Mike, I am thinking I will be removing my mesh intake cover.

    In medical ultrasound metal objects are a nightmare as they prevent 100% of the signal hitting them to penetrate beyond them. It’s entirely possible that I am getting “scatter” or a “reverberation artifact” that when it hits the metal, the returning signal interferes with the normal signal coming back in the immediate area. It’s called a side lobing artifact. They should make this as a mesh insert that slides into the hose. Not bulges out of the hose. I am thinking I’ll just do that tonight and see what my signals look like after removal.

    whittsend
    Posts: 2389
    #858475

    Good idea… “squashing” the metal on my intake helped to some degree I think, but I still (very occasionally) notice the darker left side. Sooner or later I’m going to talk myself into making it a non-issue. A plastic mesh would be a good alternate option too, if its more so the metal causing interference and less the actual physical blocking of the signal/return by the plastic intake bumpout.

    I’ll have to look around the house for some sort of plastic mesh that I can zip tie in place around the plastic intake piece.

    Wade Boardman
    Grand Rapids, MN
    Posts: 4453
    #858477

    Quote:


    Good idea… “squashing” the metal on my intake helped to some degree I think, but I still (very occasionally) notice the darker left side. Sooner or later I’m going to talk myself into making it a non-issue. A plastic mesh would be a good alternate option too, if its more so the metal causing interference and less the actual physical blocking of the signal/return by the plastic intake bumpout.

    I’ll have to look around the house for some sort of plastic mesh that I can zip tie in place around the plastic intake piece.


    Some screen from a screen door/window perhaps. Mesh bagging off a turkey/chicken from the store. Mesh bagging from a bag of onions or apples perhaps. I’m with you, I’ll have to start looking around.

    When a sound wave hits metals, it scatters in various directions. Think of high velocity hose water hitting a hard object. Those signals can interfere with other signals going out and returning. The biggest problem is metal will send the outgoing signal into oblivion and there will be no returning signal for the system to interpret. Hence the “shadow” on your monitor.

    whittsend
    Posts: 2389
    #858495

    Will the sound waves shoot through a hard plastic (the plastic bumpout on the intake area) to any degree, or is that another potential problem area? I’d assume its not as bad as metal, but still not great….

    Wade Boardman
    Grand Rapids, MN
    Posts: 4453
    #858499

    Mike, I’m going to try and keep my screen as shallow as possible. Plastic will not be as destructive to a sound wave, but it is still an obstruction. I would think if you zip tie a screen over the hole, that’s about the best you can do.

    whittsend
    Posts: 2389
    #858511

    I thought about trying to remove/cut off the external plastic piece, but I assume that this piece holds the intake tubing in place somehow (haven’t investigated it too far, maybe the connection is more internal??) — might not be such a good idea unless I want water pouring into transom due to a disconnected intake line…..

    Wade Boardman
    Grand Rapids, MN
    Posts: 4453
    #859615

    Quote:


    I thought about trying to remove/cut off the external plastic piece, but I assume that this piece holds the intake tubing in place somehow (haven’t investigated it too far, maybe the connection is more internal??) — might not be such a good idea unless I want water pouring into transom due to a disconnected intake line…..


    OK Mike, I’m at a loss. I took the screen off last night and left it on the shelf. On my boat, it just screws off.

    While on the river I noticed the same shadow, so……………….I don’t know what to say. All I can do now is mess with transducer location. I really thought I had it there. I am still going to modify the screen. Why not make sure that’s not an issue. I’ve got an idea how to do it. I’ll post pick when I’m done.

    jhalfen
    Posts: 4179
    #859659

    Any chance that the transducer is not mounted perfectly square to the transom? If it is mounted at even a slight angle, maybe the shadow you’re catching is from the corner where the transom meets the hull.

    How to diagnose this……off the top of my head…measure off 12 inches from the center of the transducer mount to either side (12″ left, 12″ right), and mark those spots with a pencil. Now, measure from the outside corner of the transducer to the nearest mark (left corner to left mark, right corner to right mark). A transducer that is mounted square to the transom should provide the same distances from the outside corners to the marks you’ve made on the transom. If one side is smaller than the other, then you’re not square, and perhaps this shadow is really from that transom/hull junction.

    If that doesn’t make sense, blame it on the fact that I’m only on my first cup of coffee for the day.

    Wade Boardman
    Grand Rapids, MN
    Posts: 4453
    #859665

    Quote:


    Any chance that the transducer is not mounted perfectly square to the transom? If it is mounted at even a slight angle, maybe the shadow you’re catching is from the corner where the transom meets the hull.

    How to diagnose this……off the top of my head…measure off 12 inches from the center of the transducer mount to either side (12″ left, 12″ right), and mark those spots with a pencil. Now, measure from the outside corner of the transducer to the nearest mark (left corner to left mark, right corner to right mark). A transducer that is mounted square to the transom should provide the same distances from the outside corners to the marks you’ve made on the transom. If one side is smaller than the other, then you’re not square, and perhaps this shadow is really from that transom/hull junction.

    If that doesn’t make sense, blame it on the fact that I’m only on my first cup of coffee for the day.


    It makes perfect sense. Of course I’m math brained. Thanks Prof. Halfen.

    scott-k
    Red Wing
    Posts: 539
    #860304

    Great discussion! Curious, what solved the metal mesh issue…
    Apologize for jumping your post, but wondering if the puck with the SI unit is enough. I’ve had a few people say the high-speed puck is needed too. This confuses me about the speed at which the unit will gather information.

    reddog
    Posts: 803
    #860333

    Ruger.

    My 997 does the same thing, to a point. It works well at SI speeds if Im coming out of a slow speed start. It also reads perfectly at high speeds. Its when I come out of a higher speed run, or medium for all that matters that I get the interference. If I have the interference, I simply take it out of gear, and let the boat settle down a little and them resume imaging at SI speeds and all is well again.

    I attribute it in my case to be some sort of water disturbance or air lock/bubbles between the transom and the transducer, because when I allow it to clean out, it works great again. The only reason I say that, is because it does work at high speed also. If it didnt, then I would continue looking for the problem.

    heres what mine shows at high speed.

    I dont know if this helps or not, but thats what happens with my unit.

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