Electronic Upgrade for my 1999 Alaskan 16 ft

I need some advice on electronics. I have a Lund 16 ft Alaskan with ancient electronics. I am trying to get myself motivated to do more open water fishing. I have come to the conclusion that I am an electronics hound and enjoy using electronics on hard water where I am well equipped with electronics. So I want to upgrade the boats electronics.

So this is what I am thinking?
Humminingbird 898 HD side and down imaging and HD Lakemaster chip combined with a Terrova with i-pilot trolling motor and a Hummingbird 597 up front. I am not thinking of doing this all at once (Maybe the 898 and the Terrova this year)

This is were I am coming from Zercom LPG 2000 (actually not too bad of a unit) and an older MinnKota trolling motor with electronic foot pedal which I hate.

My hope is that the new toys will motivate me to spend more time on the water. I know that electronics by themselves will not make you a better fisherman. Some of my buddies suggest that I just by a new boat. I should note that I use this boat for duck hunting and the hull works great in shallow water. If it all works out who knows maybe I will buy a new boat and I can transfer the electronics to the new boat.

Based upon what I listed is there anything that I should be aware of or overlooked. I will fish for just about anything that bites and I almost exclusively catch and release. So I will fish rivers and lakes (not too big of bodies of water unless calm and safe)

I should mention that I have not looked at Lowrance and I suppose I should but I have a Lowrance H20 GPS that I hate and Lowrance customer service was very poor. How is Lowrance doing these days? One expert that I spoke with said Hummingbird has made Lowrance a better company. I don’t want to start a Humminbird vs Lowrance debate. But if there is a model that I should investigate I will. But it would have to have the ability to communicate with the trolling motor like the Humminbird and MinnKota does otherwise I am not interested. I really think this ability to communicate and control the boat is awesome

Thank you
Bob

Why don’t you just wait for the wireless box / transducer unit that will allow you to use your smart phone or tablet as a depth finder.

All you will have to do is download “the app” – that will be free. It will be more that you need – at a price that will be shocking to the industry.

Coming soon to a retailer near you..

Hmmmmm…

Dog

Great post. I’m in sort of the same position. I have a 16-foot Crestliner tiller with ancient Lowrance electronics. Basically it tells me how deep it is and that’s about it. So I’ve been lusting after better electronics for some time. Unlike you I won’t be in the position to upgrade quite as nicely as you’re thinking – though…damn, I’d love that spot lock/electric anchor Terrova. But will be looking to do a modest upgrade and was wondering what’s a more ‘midrange’ Hummingbird I could try.

The 597 isn’t compatible with i-link as it has no Ethernet connection. If you know for a fact you won’t be running the link off the front of the boat, then no worries. I personally would look at the 788 just for the networking options. I do believe that Lowrance’s structure scan HD is better than HB, but customer service, user interface, and accessories are outperforming Lowrance at this time. However, I really like the expandability of the HDS units. But, they don’t link with ipilot.

I’m in the process of rigging my boat piece by piece, and have started with the 798 with mounts at the console, bow, and stern, as well as one in the ice kit. This one unit serves all purposes, wherever I want it. Eventually I will have a larger unit at the console, like you, to run the SI. I, personally, put more stock in networking.

I would not worry much about the networking. I have a 998 on the dash and an 858 that can be at the bow or dash. The big let down is they can only share the gps. Even if you did go with the 788 that would be your only benefit. You would be able to see way points on both units. For me it is nice because I didn’t have to mount a second gps puck. But the 788 and below have internal gps antennas so it will not be an issue.

From what HB told em when I called to share the transducer data the units will need to have the same transducer, meaning the 998 could share data with the 1198 and so on.

Let me add some additional information based upon responses thus far. Thank you everyone for your input I really appreciate it as I am not as comfortable with boat electronics and sadly neither are any of the retailers I have dealt with which leads me to want to purchase online why should I give the business to local retailers if they know nothing about the product.

I am thinking the 597 is for some one or my self to use when up front in the boat. I was also thinking of using this as a GPS when winter ice fishing on a ATV or snowmobile. ( I would not even care about using this as a GPS if someone would make a GPS that would run Lakemaster chips) Hummingbird really needs to make a handheld GPS that will work with Lakemaster chips.

If I went with a 700 series product I could network with the 898? What type of information can I network?

I was told that the map data would not network with other units and that you would have to buy a chip for each head unit. Now if I could network Lakemaster map data with a 500 or 700 series this would save me the expense of buying another map chip. If the 700 series will run the Terrova from the Lakemaster data in the 898 I could see some value in that. It just keeps getting more expensive !! hahahaha

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If I went with a 700 series product I could network with the 898? What type of information can I network?

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From Humminbird……

Find the content you want – faster. Humminbird® high-speed Ethernet lets you share sonar, GPS, waypoints, and more between compatible units.* Ethernet networking instantly puts critical information at your command, anywhere on the boat. Compatible with new Humminbird® 700 HD, 800, 900, and 1100 Series™ models, plus Ethernet-equipped legacy models.

**Ethernet-equipped models include Humminbird®858c, 898c SI, 998c SI, 958c, and all 1100 Series™ units.

Your Map data will not be shared on the ethernet network.

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If I went with a 700 series product I could network with the 898? What type of information can I network?

I was told that the map data would not network with other units and that you would have to buy a chip for each head unit.

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I just hooked my 858c and my 998si together a few months ago. I was under the impression that I would be able to share the 2D sonar but my 858 kept giving me a message saying it lost the sonar source. After a quick call to HB support they informed me that sharing the sonar would require the 2 units to run the same transducers, which they do not.

As for the map data being shared this is not the case. You are correct that you will need a chip for each unit.

So the long and short of what a 788 and 898 would be able to share is gps position and way points. Sonar will not work because they both run different transducers which operate at different frequencies.

Hope this helps

So now I think I;m leaning back to the 597. I guess Im not seeing the value in networking data. I would think I would use the front transducer to see my bait when vertical jigging and running all of one transducer would not show this. So I guess I’m not seeing the networking value unless someone can describe to me what I’m missing?

But now if I think about it I will probably get interference between the front and rear transducers correct?

I normally fish in 20 FOW or less and have no interference between the US2 trnasducer and the 998’s si transducer. You may see a little if you get into deeper water and the beams cross but I don’t think it will be horrible. I have a 200/80 transducer mounted next to the 998’s si transducer on the back of the boat and when I run them both at the dash I see a little interference but it is minimal.

How do you determine if the Terrova will fit on your bow? Is there a template you can get to see if it will fit?

My Alaskan does not have much of a bow. How do I determine if I have enough mounting surface to install the 80 lb thrust Terrova?

Which leads to my next question how does one determine if he has enough trolling motor for his boat?. The Alaskan is not a very heavy boat but I want a little more in case I move to a heavier boat. I want 24 volt regardless I just do not like running out of power when the fishing is getting good.

I have an Alumacraft Trophy 175 and I run the Terova 80. It has plenty of power and I have yet to run out of juice after fishing a 12 hour day on the river.

I am not sure as far as the mounting goes on the Alaskan

This will tell you if your trolling motor will fit the bow,pick one up at fleet farm and try it out and return it if it don’t work out.

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This will tell you if your trolling motor will fit the bow,pick one up at fleet farm and try it out and return it if it don’t work out.

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That is an excellent idea Thank you Bob!!

Well the research continues and I was watching some instructional videos regarding networking and considering bumping up to the 700 series for the front. This would add networking capabilities between both units.

For those of you networking have you been happy with the results?

If the networking allowed Lakemaster data to be shared it would be a no brainier. Of course you could just add a LM chip up front too and be done. Its killing me!!

If I run the front unit of the Terrova transducer I will get down imaging and that is great. If I network then I could add a side imaging and work of the 898 transducer for the person up front and both be seeing the same information.

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If I run the front unit of the Terrova transducer I will get down imaging and that is great. If I network then I could add a side imaging and work of the 898 transducer for the person up front and both be seeing the same information.

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You will only get 2D using the Terrova transducer not DI.

Well I am getting closer to pulling the pin Hummingbird 597, 898 and Terrova 24 volt 80 lbs i link
I will use the 898 to communicate with the Terrova. I am assuming that an Ethernet cable runs from the 898 HD to the Terrova where does this connection take place on the Terrova?
I will use the universal transducer on the Terrova to run the 597
My boat does not have a lot of room upfront for two batteries a 12 volt would make life easier. I just would hate to spend this much money only to wish I had more power and capacity (also may consider transferring this to a new boat in the future). I am thinking that I will have to add the second battery outside the current battery compartment and secure it in some type of battery box and run good cables.
I presently have a 1999 vintage Minnkota power drive with a 45” shaft. There is an option for a 45’ shaft but am considering a 60” shaft but then I will have to accommodate this extra length within the gunnels of the boat. I don’t think I ever had any issues with not enough shaft length on the current boat. To be honest using the foot pedal was such a PITA that I just never used the trolling motor. Can any of you tell me should I get the longer shaft? Does a 45” shaft cover a lot of boats?
Now I just have to get the courage to write the check. Some think I should buy a new boat but then I would be spending the same plus the new boat. I am thinking that the boat control with the Terrova will make fishing more enjoyable with the Lakemaster HD chips especially when operating by myself.

To be personally honest, I would definitely go with the 24V system. I would hate to spend that kind of money on a new motor and then kick my own @ss because I found out that the boat was very underpowered. You may also consider placing one of the batteries towards the back of your boat and then just go ahead and run some longer leads to reach the bow.

As far as your question goes about the 45″ shaft, I think that may be a little short if you’re ever fishing in a minimal walleye chop. The shaft lengths, especially the longer ones are built as a solution for the motor rising up out of the water when the boat takes a wake or wave. If you don’t think that you have enough room for the 60″ shaft, I wouldn’t drop down to the 45″, I would actually take a look at the 54″ Terrova. That way you are still able to utilize your motor to its full potential without having to worry about the motor pulling out of the water in 1-2 footers

Get the 60 inch shaft and it takes about 10 minutes to pull the head cut the shaft and drill one hole if you need shorter. My boat works best with 54 inch shaft length.

The pin has been pulled!!
First I want to thank everyone for their input. I really appreciate it.
898
788
MK345
Terrova 24 volt 80 lbs. with quick release mount (I need to add a quik disconnect for the power leads)
Ethernet networking added
Had to get a battery charger MK345 to protect the battery investment
I decided to add the 788 to the bow and to network it.
I must say what a learning curve to figure this stuff out. What a PITA to install. But it all works. It is amazing technology. The technology alone is entertaining.

I do have an electrical question. I am running two AGM group 27 batteries for the Terrova. Each battery is housed in a Minnekota trolling motor power center.
http://store.minnkotamotors.com/products/418930/Trolling_Motor_Power_Center
A nice battery box. Each Battery box has a reset-able 60 amp circuit breaker .The manual calls for a 60 amp breaker I am assuming at 24 volts

Am I ok with a 60 amp breaker on each battery when wired in series??

First I must say the Terrova is an amazing piece of technology!! It really works. I was blown away.

Looking forward to fall fishing

Bob