Has anyone used the new E-3 sparkplugs

About 9 years ago I bought a new 5220 Cub Cadet chainsaw thinking cub was a fairly good brand. I used it all the time and blew a piston and replaced it with new rings and its to the point now where half the paint is gone off the body Ive worked it so much. I bought a new carburetor and put that on and it seemed to run pretty good but not like it did when it was newer. A guy at the parts store asked if I ever used the new to me E-3 sparkplugs and I said no. Cub had one of the big chainsaw companies make this model for them, their an Itialian saw company known as EMeck and from what I was told they make a lot of saws for different companies and are one of the big boys.

So I put in a new E-3 plug and it started right up and it also made it easier to adjust the high and low speed gas screws. Before I started it I put the plug in the sparkplug boot and pulled the starter rope and the spark was noticeably bluer, the bluer the spark the better it runs.

I then tried to start my log splitter with Champion plugs in it and the right temperature plug and beings its so cold blooded it didn’t start. So I went and bought 2 new E-3 plugs, one for each cylinder, hit it with a little ether and hit the ignition and it fired right up and ran like a champ.

These plugs are about twice as much as an NGK or AC plug but they work. NGKs were through trial and error over the years, were my go to plug but with the results of the new E-3’s I’m putting them in all my gas engines, Including both my motors for my jon boat. Anyone ever tried them and if so what were your results.

I recently purchased one for a stubborn starting cold blooded Strikemaster auger. It appears to start easier and run better. Previously used a hotter champion CJ8Y
Too early to say if it will work better or not. But it looks promising.

Interesting to hear the experiences. I’ve see these plugs advertised, but to be honest I wrote them off as a gimmick because there’s been lots of past attempts where “improved” spark plugs were invented by altering the shape of the electrode and also by making the plug slightly hotter for a given rating. Anybody else remember the “Splitfire” plugs from back in the 1990s? Same principle, different electrode and tests showed that the plugs were amped up from the plugs that they were cross-referenced to. None of these seem to last very long.

I’d be interested to hear if this improved starting and performance lasts. Also, would you have gotten the same result by just replacing the plug with a plane Jane Champion? I.e. did the plug just need to be changed anyway?

Will be interested to hear how these are performing at the 1 year mark.

Grouse

Grouse it was a new NGK plug for the chainsaw at the start of this years cutting season. The splitter had last years champions because the repair shop is about a mile away, and the suggested plug for this 18 horse, CJ6’s also. I clean and regap my plugs a couple times a year so they perform better. I didn’t run a feeler gauge through the E-3’s right out of the package but the gap looked a littler bigger between the electrode and the ground prong, maybe a 30 too 35 thousandths. There seemed to be a right off the bat noticeable difference in the diameter and color of the actual spark, they say their guaranteed for life but we will see. I’m not a throw away guy unless its necessary, you should see my garage with all the old motors and parts, so I know I’ll reclean the plug and regap it for next year and will watch for any color change in the spark, also no Resistor to store power or points to question which will cause weak and a change in color of the spark, the CJ’s were firing with a hint of red, just from last year…I run my equipment and its not there just too look at it.

Why am I thinking pistons with holes burned thru them or valve eroded to uselessness?

Too hot of a plug has its share of problems too.

the E-3 plugs have been out for a while now,and I have replaced several coils,wires,and coil packs because of them.
the problem with them is because of the extra electrode ground straps ( where you adjust the gap) and the higher resistance due to this

this makes the coil collapse at a higher voltage than normal,and the coil is left with no reserve so to speak for the next firing cycle especially in a multicylinder engine that uses only one coil and it already is about to fail anyway

the demand put on the coil overheats it and it will fail eventually,I have seen spark plug wires burnt clean thru due to the higher voltages,and yes,I know wires will fail overtime,but the ones I have replaced had less than fifty thousand miles on them.

I have also seen the plugs themselves ( e-3) with holes blown out of their own porcelain towers above the nut area when an aftermarket “hot” coil is used to replace the OEM one.

now,if E-3 is making a single electrode plug,I would bet they are building in the higher resistance in the plugs center electrode to accomplish the same thing without the extra electrodes for use in small engines as their coils have a hard enough time jumping one gap as it is.

I am not cutting E-3 down,its a good idea,but you need to replace the OEM parts with parts designed to fire that kind of plug.

Thanks Iowa and will watch for those things.

mossydan,pay attention to the inside of the plug wire boot,and where it seals the porcelain,you may start to see what looks like a pencil lead track on the boot and plug,this is a dead give away of one of two things,one,the boot is bad itself,or the voltage demand put on the coil is high enough that the electrode is not able to absorb the hotter spark and it is arching from the tip of the plug to the nut,especially on short length plugs.

this does occur on stock parts quite frequently,but usually it is because the plug is shot,and the extra resistance is causing greater coil collapse and higher voltages,by then,the engine is overdue for a complete tune-up.

Or just watch it run at night when its dark and can see any arcing? that’s what I do, plus carb for the saw is right out of the package and the carb for the splitter was gone through last year. I wish I could buy straight 10 weight oil for the splitter and can’t, only multi grade here. Got any suggestions on types of thin oil for splitters that have two cylinders?

Tom I always run non ethanol high octane in my saws and splitter and I run the carb a little on the rich side especially for the valve problems and have an adjustable choke cable.

if you are asking about hydraulic oil, case IH hytran is a ten weight if I am not mistaken,but its pricey,most hydraulic oils have the weight listed somewhere on their labels.

now,if you are talking about engine oil in a ten weight,any of the farm stores should keep it on hand,or your local parts store should be able to order it for you in about any of the major brand lines,they may want you to buy a case for their trouble,but at least that way,you should have plenty on hand,( twelve quarts)

I can weld, did for 8 years, so I’m about ready to disconnect the pump from the motor shaft and run the pump via two pulleys with an idler pulley that I can engauge after the motor starts and warms up, getting around the stiffer hydraulic oil, that would solve all the problems.

I’ve got an Ingersole garden tractor that was so cheap I about stold it for the price. It has a Briggs vanguard engine in it and isn’t connected to the hydraulic oil pump until its engauged. You don’t even have to choke it at zero and it turns over about 5 times and runs like a gem. It has a mower deck and snow blower on it and had a wiring problem. Guy wanted it out from behind his garage, all of its in very good shape and I got it for $200 bucks, you guys know what kind of deal that was, quality is on the level of a Case, better then a Deere in my opinion. Everything raises and lowers hydraulicly, very nice tractor/mower, not even a rip in the seat.

Ya I probably should change the hydraulic oil and filter as it probably needs it anyway and will call Tractor supply and Theisens about the 10 weight, thanks. The splitter has a lovejoy coupler and the better rubber coupler in between the coupler ends.

This is fun talking engines and the problems that come with them. You guys should see my early 70’s Cub Cadet lawn tractor. Came with a 16 horse in it, wore the engine out and replaced it with a Kohler 20 horse. Beings the 16 was worn out and couldn’t find an electric clutch for it below $250 dollars which ran the rear tiller is why I made the change. I extended the frame that holds the tiller and mounted an 8 horse Briggs on it. Connected everything with pulleys and a belt and put on a spring loaded idler and believe it or not, it runs better the when it was original. Tills so nice you want to take your shoes off and walk in the dirt.