Food plot question

  • darrin_bauer
    Inactive
    Menomonie Wi.
    Posts: 260
    #204328

    I have a 1/2 acre grass field surrounded by woods on a ridge top that I would like to plant in clover, peas, and a little chicory. Do I till it up first then apply roundup or roundup first then till followed by another application of roundup? What do I use for fertilizer and when in this process should I apply it? Soil test shows it is low in nitrogen and Potassium and PH is around 5.5 so lime is also in the works.

    robstenger
    Northern Twin Cities, MN
    Posts: 11374
    #79017

    What I like to do after the soil samples is brush hog the plot or knockdown the weeds as much as possible Then either clear or rake the “loose” weeds/grass off the plot. I then spray the remaining weeds with round up or similar weed killer. Wait a week for the round up to do it’s work and then disc it up . I typically will then throw in my lime and disc it again to get the lime worked into the soil. I then will drag the food plot to firm up and level the seed bed. Then your plot is ready to plant or put your seed in.

    Here is a quick Lesson on Fertilizer. Fertilizer basically is noted by 3 ingredients (N-P-P). Those symbols stand for Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium. When you buy fertilizer it can be bought with greater or lesser amounts of these key ingredients. Usually you will see fertilizer with 10-10-10 or 20-5-10 or something similar at the store. That is letting you how much of N-P-P is in every bag. Most Woodland Soil is low in Phosphorus and Potassium. The first application of fertilizer should be made when the game plot is planted with moisture in the near future. If you plant in the spring and for maximum growth, a second application of 1/2 the rate of the first application should be applied approximately 3 months after planting or date of first application.

    I will typically spread (broadcast)my fertilizer right after my seed is planted and then drag or disc the plot to ensure good soil contact or to bury my seed and fertilizer depending on what type of seed I’m using. Some seeds call for minimal seed depth, while others call for the seed to be buried a few inches. Follow directions on the seed type.

    I hope this helps a little!

    bob_bergeson
    cannon falls
    Posts: 2798
    #79019

    Good reply Rob, I would like to add that maybe you use roundup at least 2 times this summer about 6 weeks apart then till and plant your clover and chicory. But plant in late july or early august. use about 50# of oats as a good cover crop /food source for this fall. my best luck for weed control has been with fall plantings of clover.

    bob_bergeson
    cannon falls
    Posts: 2798
    #79030

    Quote:


    Great advice, so I don’t plant the clover in early June like I was planning, why is that?


    I have just had better luck controlling the weeds when i plant them in late july. (just before a rain) the oats will act as a nurse crop and protect the delicate clover seedlings from the direct sunlight. if we get a drought the clover will be shaded by the oats. and remember that oats are very palatable to the deer keeping them from eating the clover as soon as it sprouts.

    flatlandfowler
    SC/SW MN
    Posts: 1081
    #79042

    Some great information there.

    Just to add a few things that will be helpful for you
    1) The way that Roundup (glyphosate) works is that it inhibits essential enzymatic processes that the plants use to process its nutrients for food. It is a contact herbicide which means that it needs to come in contact with the plant and thus does not need to be taken up through the root. Because of these attributes glyphosate works best when temperatures are higher than they are now and when the plant is processing nutrients quicker. Therefore you will see minimal affect when using glyphosate this time of year. (I wrote a term paper during my undergrad on glyphosate and was convinced it would work on my plots in the spring. My father, a farmer, told me it wasnt going to do squat in the spring and he was right). If you want to spray this early in the year your best bet is going to be either a post till pre emergence herbicide or another post emergence herbicide. Dont be afraid to call up your local co-op and talk to someone.

    2) Clovers are a legume. This means that they are in a plant class similar to soybeans, alfalfa, lab lab, ect. These plants and much less reliant on Nitrogen than corn or say sorghum. These plants are much more dependant on phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen. Legumes also work to natrually ‘fix’ nitrogen through their nitrate cycle. This means that your legumes are leaving more nitrogen in the soil after their life cycle than there was when you planted them. With that being said, you must still consider the nutrient needs of your ‘cover’ crop (like previously said, oats make a great cover crop) when you go to make your initial fertilizer application.

    Just some considerations when you go to plant your clover plots. Good luck

    witte
    West Salem, WI
    Posts: 428
    #79075

    I would spray it with roundup about 10 days before you till and seed. This way everything will be dead and it will be easier to till under. RUp needs moisture to kill because it kills actively growing plants. If it’s dry and you see no results, don’t worry, first rain or heavy dew will get things going. No need to spray roundup after tilling because it doesn’t do anything to germinating seedlings. I’d till and plant in late april/early may. June will be too warm and may not have enough precip. Peas are cool season plants and will grow quick giving plenty of cover for the clover to establish a lush stand. I’d put out a nice spread of N-P-K 10-10-10 to get it all going. Easiest to fert at seeding time, otherwise before first rain. Good luck.

    bradg
    Posts: 507
    #79152

    Quote:


    It is a contact herbicide which means that it needs to come in contact with the plant and thus does not need to be taken up through the root. Because of these attributes glyphosate works best when temperatures are higher than they are now and when the plant is processing nutrients quicker.


    You are right about glyphosate being a “contact” killer in the sense that it doesn’t enter the plant at the root, but through the leaf/stem. Glyphosate is classified as a Systemic herbicide which means it needs to translocate through the plant in order to effectively kill it. That is why it is most effective when applied to actively growing plants.

    Another point to keep in mind is that there are Selective Herbicides available that are not Restricted Use Pesticides to help control weeds in clover, alfalfa, and other broadleafs. This can be a rather effective option also if you really want to get planting earlier.

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