Gap between tub and shower tile

In the bathroom at my house, there’s an abnormally large gap between the edge of the tub and the start of the shower tile. It’s anywhere from 1/2”-3/4” and I’m pretty sure it’s due to shoddy DIY work by the previous owner who remodeled the bathroom.

A year or two after buying the house, it started cracking so I ripped it all out and put in new caulking using sanded siliconized acrylic latex caulk from Menards. It looked nice when it was done but I’m having the same problem of it cracking after a year or so. It also seems to separate in some spots at the seam where the caulk meets the tub.

What can I do to get this fixed right so it doesn’t crack and need to be redone every year or so? Am I using the wrong kind of caulk?

I thought about trying to put in a real thin strip of tile all the way around the tub seam so there’s a smaller gap but the gaps width is not uniform around the whole tub so I’m not sure that would work. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

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I wouldn’t lay a 1/2″ tile but look for a shower and tub water proof caulk. I can’t remember the brand I used, but I did my bathroom 2 years ago and it’s still holding tight. I just got it at the menards. Or call a bathroom and shower remodel place and ask them what’s the best caulking you can use. They will typically have any color you need.

Is this on the back wall of the tub? If so the wall is likely flexing in and out with use and the changing seasons due to the tub being improperly installed. And without fixing that issue first it will continue to crack. Is there access behind the wall?

PVC base might work in that application

I’m guessing the tub is on an exterior wall which is pulling out in the winter time. It is cracking because the upper tile”surround” looks like it was not installed correctly on to the tub flange. Most likely the upper surround will need to be removed and installed correctly otherwise this will continue every winter.

munchy wrote:

Is this on the back wall of the tub? If so the wall is likely flexing in and out with use and the changing seasons due to the tub being improperly installed. And without fixing that issue first it will continue to crack. Is there access behind the wall?

thanks for the help guys.

the cracking is on pretty much all 3 sides of the tub but most prevalent where it makes the most contact with water (so the end under the showerhead and the long side of the tub closest to the showerhead). I can access behind the wall on the showerhead side, granted its more visual access than physical. its pretty tight with the water softener located back there.

no, it is not on an exterior wall.. all walls of the tub are on interior walls.

Eelpoutguy wrote:

PVC base might work in that application

thats a really good idea. I might try to see if I can find something that will work. So you’re saying essentially just trim it out with the pvc and then water proof caulk the smaller gaps like you would a normal smaller shower gap?

1/2-3/4″ is too large of a bead for TEC. Tuck in 1/4″ foam rope and then caulk. Would be good to lay in a thin back bead and let it set, then top coat over it.

From the pic, it looks like the surfaces are moving independently. if so, you will always get a crack near the top or bottom from the two surfaces moving.

Randy Wieland wrote:

1/2-3/4″ is too large of a bead for TEC. Tuck in 1/4″ foam rope and then caulk. Would be good to lay in a thin back bead and let it set, then top coat over it.

thanks randy. you mean like backer rod? I thought about doing that last time I re-did this but it seemed like the backer rod would stick out too far.. like there wasn’t enough room to jam it into the gap without it looking like it was protruding out into the shower once finished.

That foam rope I think is an excellent idea. You can find it in all sorts of diameters. I use it to seal up window A/C units because it will pinch down to get through a tight area then expand to fill the void. I really like that idea Randy gave. Probably buy multiple sizes to get the right fit.

CaptainMusky wrote:

That foam rope I think is an excellent idea. You can find it in all sorts of diameters. I use it to seal up window A/C units because it will pinch down to get through a tight area then expand to fill the void. I really like that idea Randy gave. Probably buy multiple sizes to get the right fit.

I like it as well. Randy – Would you try to cut it in half so its more of a semicircle shape and then it could be flush with the face of the tile? The part I’m having a hard time visualizing is how to caulk it if the full circle of foam rope is installed and you essentially have a half circle protruding from the wall that you have to caulk over.

supercat wrote:

I’m guessing the tub is on an exterior wall which is pulling out in the winter time. It is cracking because the upper tile”surround” looks like it was not installed correctly on to the tub flange. Most likely the upper surround will need to be removed and installed correctly otherwise this will continue every winter.

This, the tile walls are not installed correctly and not overhanging the tub flange which itself can cause water issues behind the wall. I would also be curious as to what waterproofing method was used. Lots of reasons why tile is not overhanging, from improper tub install to improper tile install or both.

Johnny wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>CaptainMusky wrote:</div>
That foam rope I think is an excellent idea. You can find it in all sorts of diameters. I use it to seal up window A/C units because it will pinch down to get through a tight area then expand to fill the void. I really like that idea Randy gave. Probably buy multiple sizes to get the right fit.

I like it as well. Randy – Would you try to cut it in half so its more of a semicircle shape and then it could be flush with the face of the tile? The part I’m having a hard time visualizing is how to caulk it if the full circle of foam rope is installed and you essentially have a half circle protruding from the wall that you have to caulk over.

I always have 1/4″, 1/2, and 1″ in my trailer. cut it as needed to whatever shape.

1 question though. did they lap the backer board over the tub/shower flange? If not, you’ll have long term water issues

I wonder if something like this might work if Randy’s idea doesnt.
https://www.grainger.com/product/HOMAX-Hybrid-Caulking-Strip-Tub-444D75?opr=PDPRRDSP&analytics=dsrrItems_22NV37

1 question though. did they lap the backer board over the tub/shower flange? If not, you’ll have long term water issues
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Randy Wieland wrote:

1 question though. did they lap the backer board over the tub/shower flange? If not, you’ll have long term water issues

thanks for the help randy. thats a great question and I’m not sure how to tell that without ripping out the tile. How far up do those flanges typically go? the fact that the gap isn’t uniform makes me think it does overlap the flange and they did a bad job of setting the first row of tile.

I will be at this house for another year or year and a half so if I can avoid ripping out the tile, that’d be preferred.

All tub manufactures have different tile flange configurations.

and yes, trim it out with PVC and caulk the transition areas.