Full Choke for Pheasants

I recently picked up a minty 1951 Browning A5 Light 12 with a vent rib barrel and full choke. I want to use it pheasant hunting but was wondering if a full choke is good for upland birds? It’s only chambered for 2 3/4”, so I was thinking of packing it with #6 shot and taking it with me late season here in Iowa. Just looking for opinions and advise. Thanks!

I would highly advise not using a full choke for flying birds. The size of the pattern is just too small for a moving target. And if you do happen to hit one, you’re gonna pulverize it. Full chokes are for wild turkey hunting, not upland.

A modified or improved cylinder choke is what you want. I use the exact same shell you described (#6 shot, 2 3/4 length) for pheasant hunting with an improved cylinder choke. I limit my shooting distance to about 30-35 yards. Anything further and I don’t even raise my shotgun.

I think a full choke depends on the skill level of the shooter and whether the birds are breaking at distance or holding tight. The birds can be hit hard in areas and they getting pretty darned jumpy towards the late season and will flush 60 yards ahead of the shooter. Shooters” skill levels can be as different as chokes and they aren’t a one size fits all.

You want to pattern the gun, Steve and do it using three or four shot sizes and brands of ammo. For late season I’d personally be shooting 5’s.

Thanks Jimmy! I will do that. The gun doesn’t have removable chokes, so it is what it is, but it’s not a gun I’m gonna modify, it’s too nice.

Use full choke for waterfowl so don’t see why you couldn’t for pheasant. I started with a full fixed choke Rem 1100. My only pheasant mount was taken using that and left the body in good shape. Definitely want to let them get out to 30+ yards though.

That will work. I shoot a mod with 6s basically all season.

Late season birds will occasionally get a full choke and 5s or 4s, especially if they’re getting up a ways out.

Don’t overthink it – that gun will get the job done! Those a5s were built for what you’re asking about and is all people had back in the day.

I use full as well For most my bird hunting.

My side by side is choked modified and full. I seem to drop more bird with the full choke. Admittedly my sample size isn’t very big

SR

Shooting lead through a full choke is ok.
I would be hesitant shooting steel through that 1951 fixed full choke barrel.

Steel wasn’t a thing back in 1951. I’ve seen barrels split because of this. not saying it’s a 100% guarantee something will happen, just saying I’ve seen it happen. Never with lead, steel was the problem.

Newer screw in full chokes, some can handle steel, others will say “No steel right on the choke tube right on the choke.
Your gun, your choice.

I don’t hunt anywhere in Iowa that requires steel shot, so it’s gonna be PB.

If you’re used to modified and moving to a full I doubt you’ll notice much difference at all. You’ll hit birds harder and miss cleaner. If that makes sense

If I was gonna pick I go with IC or mod. But full choke will be fine. I’ve heard a lot of choke barrels from back then are a little looser than stated, so it could be more like an improved modified which is .025″ constriction versus a full at .030″ constriction.

I have an old Belgian a5 with a fixed modified barrel. If I had to shoot full choke, this would be the time of year and I’d be shooting 5’s or even 6’s, and like Jimmy said I would pattern it.

Yea DO NOT mess with steel shot in that barrel! Not worth even experimenting

Change the loads to get the pattern you want. A slower heavier load (lead etc) is gonna hold a tighter pattern at longer distances. Put in a super fast steel load and that pattern will open up much quicker.

Full will be fine. Pattern it like has been mentioned. Probably can save money and avoid some of the higher performing pheasant loads, like Federal prairie storm that tends to hold a denser pattern.

My first shotgun was an 870, 30″ fixed full choke. Used it for grouse, pheasants and ducks. For pheasants a couple rounds of 6 shot followed by 4 shots in the magazine.
Steel shot will either split the barrel or blow the choke by opening it up and may produce a slight bulge in the barrel at the beginning of the choke. I inherited the same gun from my dad. I don’t know what year it is or what fixed choke it is because I’ve never shot it since. It was a deadly slug gun for him.

When I chased Chinese Chickens with my old Springer, I belonged to 4 clubs that put out birds. We always chased the birds that others had missed and never had them stock any purposely. My tool of choice was a Rem 1100 20ga with a fixed modified choke. That one one bird-killin’ machine. I would take clients out and always let them have first crack at the birds. The 20ga had no issues taking birds out at a distance (out to possibly 35yds).

That said, would I take a 12ga full choke…?? HECK YES.

You just need the discipline to let the bird get out a ways or you will tenderize them. See how a #7-1/2 shot 1oz or 1-1/8oz trap load patterns out of your gun. Otherwise, a 1-1/8oz field load of #6 shot. Don’t go for the “Heavy Game Loads” because they really aren’t needed. When push comes to shove, try to “over-lead” the birds instead of going for a solid body shot.

My opinion mind you…..