Fuel sender

Hey all. Wondering if anyone knows the OEM of this old fuel sender by chance. The arm seems really short compared to all the new universal ones I’ve seen listed. Can’t quite see/feel into the tank to tell if there are any baffles/obstructions, just don’t want to order something to find it won’t fit. Boat is a 95 Lund ProV.

Thanks all
Nate

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Here ya go Nate, see if this will work.

https://www.marineengine.com/products/accessory.php?in=2560570

Thanks as always, Sheldon!

And Sheldon on his white horse rides in to the rescue!

He’s got a black one – called Lucy. It hangs out in his living room.

Iowaboy1, So he will have to bend the float rod to match what he has?

Yeah I’ll just match the new one best I can to the profile of the old one. I poked in with an old hanger and there is a baffle almost immediately in the radius of the hole. Should work well!

Once that’s in, it’s time to chase some spring walleyes down here on the lower WI river so long as it’s not too shallow.

UPDATE

Not sure what’s up with this thing. I put new clean terminals on, and when I touch the terminals, the gauge jumps from E to F, but when I attach the terminals to the new sender and move the arm, I get nothin. Tested with multimeter and got nothing either (unless I’m testing it wrong). Also there were two wires attached to the ground on the old sender, not sure why. Head scratcher.

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When you touch the wires together you are fooling the gauge into thinking its full.
With your voltmeter, check to make sure you have anywhere from 4.50-5.00 volts on the gauge wire to ground.
If you have correct voltage then your problem is on the ground side, two grounds are used for safety.
If you do not have any power on the gauge wire you have a power problem.
In either case, when you hook up the sending unit it is of high enough resistance it will kill either the ground or power if there is a problem.

I am betting that boat has glass fuses in it, they are notorious for corrosion, you may have a voltage reading until a load is placed on it, the gauge reads because of its low voltage ability even if there is a problem if that makes sense.

If you cant figure it out, PM me and I will give you my cell number and I will walk you through it, its hard for me to convey what I am trying to say in typed words.

bigcrappie wrote:

Iowaboy1, So he will have to bend the float rod to match what he has?

Yes, with universal sending units you can bend and cut the arm wire to match the old set up.

Final Update:

The first sender was a dud outta the package. Took it back to the shop and tested the new one right at their counter with my multimeter, ohm range was where it should be. Cut and shaped it once I got it home and it is working just fine now.

Turns out I spent way too much time scratchin my head the first go round!

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