While we’re on the topic, what is the best way to get the old races out? Mine needed replacing last year, and I had one I could not get out! I was tapping from the back side with a punch, but the troublesome one didn’t have enough of a lip to seat the punch on, so it would just slide off the race when I’d tap it with the hammer.
I ended up just buying new hub assemblies because they’re not too expensive and the ones I had were old, but I figured some of you may have some tips for next time!
Been there, done that and it sucks when your punch keeps slipping off.
What I’ve done in the situation you’ve mentioned is probably not an option that most people have.
If memory serves me correctly, I’m pretty sure I turned down a 6″ piece of 4140 steel (or some other fairly tough steel) to a few thousands under the bore size of my hub, then used that as my punch.
That was quite a few years ago already and I’m sure I took that piece of stock back to work where it came from by now. 
You would have to get one of the races off first in order to do use such a punch on the other one.
Just need a bigger hammer. 
I’ve got a buddy that works on cranes all over the world. Said he has hammers like most people have sockets. 
Put a torch on it.
-J.
Take a dremel tool with a small cut-off wheel and carefully remove some hub material where the race seats against the hub to slightly increase the lip area. Do it it 2 spots 180 deg. apart. I always use a piece of drill rod with a squared off edge. The best option would be as Joel suggested.
I could not find my seal remover tool so I tried this and it worked great.
I took the hub off, removed the outer bearing and race and then put the hub back on the spindle.
Then I put the washer back on and the nut threaded a ways on the threads.
Then I simply popped the hub out a few times and wella, the seal was off.
Quick and easy way if you do not have a seal remover or cannot find it like me.
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I could not find my seal remover tool so I tried this and it worked great.
I took the hub off, removed the outer bearing and race and then put the hub back on the spindle.
Then I put the washer back on and the nut threaded a ways on the threads.
Then I simply popped the hub out a few times and wella, the seal was off.
Quick and easy way if you do not have a seal remover or cannot find it like me.
Excellent idea Tom!
Question on the oil bath system.
I talked to a guy today that managed a local boat shop; he said that Ranger had issues with the oil bath bearing seals going out on their trailers. I never thought to ask who made then for Ranger. Does anyone know of this and why was it an issue?
I did a quick searech on the internet and learned quite a bit.
Seems many are having slight issues.
Sounds like condensation is normal to a slight degree.
Another said to use thread tape and that will solve the moisture issue.
It also stated that it is normal for the oil to have a milky color.
In regards to one putting too much grease into the hub with BB’s, I do not believe my seals would blow out.
I do not know how many trailer companies have seal protectors that go on fist before the hub to help keep that seal from blowing.
My trailer, a Shorelander does have these seal protectors so that will of course help protect the seal.
How many others have these seal protectors on their trailers?
Thanks Tom!
Hummm,,,,,, I’ve got to watch these pretty close now! The warranty is for 5 years with a no-touch statement. 10 year w/ extended warranty, I think I should buy that for a hundie and change. 
Looks like I need to do a whole lot of research now! 
Thanks! 
Just an amusing commentary on this thread. Tonight at the Sports show. Brand new Alumacraft on a Shorelander trailer. Seems to have lost a bearing buddy with…well let just guess less than 100 miles. Yes the other side had BB as well as every other Shorelander trailer at that dealer.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtK-Rz6gC6o
Just sayin’….. 
-J.
I simply do not understand why people have issues with these. I have had 4 boat trailers and my sled trailer and they all had BB’s.
We also run them on our race trailers with no issues.
Never one issues to date and thats many miles over many years.
Could there be an issue, maybe but I have yet to see any.
My guess at the BB missing in the video, just maybe they put it on crucked or they did not have it seated.
No way that should come off in a 100 miles. 
If the installer did not get it seated all the way around, then it would throw it for sure within a very short trip.
I have been doing some research on why they fall out.
Seems many times it is a tire low on air, out of balance or the nut was not tight enough. Some of them also did not have the nut tight enough and the hub wobbled.
IT seems to me after researching this is that the issues were manily from not doing something correctly.
Yes, Tom – that is true. But if you are the person that just drove off the dealer lot with a new boat and get home to find no BB. You might think like I do. Bad install or not.
Never lost a $1.99 dust cap. I’m sold.
-J.
I totally agree with you Jon as I also would be upset if that happened to me.
I just believe that if a person is not up on his game when doing the hub, then yes, they should install the dust caps.
If any maintinence is missed or not done correctly, then there goes the BB into the ditch.
Another thing a person should check with a caliper is the id of the hub and the OD of the BB housing to make sure it has not worn and is off and will not fit tight.
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Just an amusing commentary on this thread.
Great video! I felt the tittie twister from here!
I can’t stop laughing at that video. Jon’s I told you so voice is great. 
On a side note, what is an approx. cost to replace the bearings, seals and races on a single axle trailer?
DT
Depending on where you buy them about $35-50.
Thanks.
DT
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I did a quick searech on the internet and learned quite a bit.
Seems many are having slight issues.
Sounds like condensation is normal to a slight degree.
Another said to use thread tape and that will solve the moisture issue.
It also stated that it is normal for the oil to have a milky color.
On another board there are a few guys wanting to change there trailers back to plane bearing and getting rid of the oil bath. They are having such issues with seals going out and water intrusion.
Goes to show no system is infallible. Me I have been running BB since they first came out. I have lost one the first set I put on, installer error I believe since then never an issue. My Shorelander trailer is a 2000 going on 11 years and have only packed and replaced seals, never have replaced bearings yet. When ever on the road every gas stop I check the hubs for heat, do the same on any trailer I am pulling.
When one reads about all the issues with these different hubs, the old dust caps are probably the best for no issues.
These other systems do help keep the bearings longer if they are maintained and watched very closely.
Maybe Jon is correct in that they are not worth it in the long run.
I think there is always someone who has problems just like getting a lemon car/truck etc. So what ever works best for that person is what they should go with. For me I’ll keep using BB. After having multiple trailers and my boat trailer which has had them on for 35 years with no problems I will stick with what works for me. The real key is proper maintenance and inspection, can’t say enough about that. Good luck all with your trailering and may none of you break down. 
Well, the other day, I noticed that my hub looked a little funny. Thought I just lost one of my rubber Bearing Buddy caps. Turns out, the whole Bearing Buddy fell off. And I guarantee that it was installed correctly. I have no idea when it fell off, but I am sure glad it didn’t hit a car behind me!
So, back to dust caps I go. If you could use one Bearing Buddy, send me a PM
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Well, the other day, I noticed that my hub looked a little funny. Thought I just lost one of my rubber Bearing Buddy caps. Turns out, the whole Bearing Buddy fell off. And I guarantee that it was installed correctly. I have no idea when it fell off, but I am sure glad it didn’t hit a car behind me!
So, back to dust caps I go. If you could use one Bearing Buddy, send me a PM
I can help you Ryan. There is one sitting on the work bench in the garage.
Pop cans make great dust caps in a pinch.
Crap Ryan! I had the same deal late last year and could have used a single. Then my neighbor took the other one because he lost one! Maybe we should start up a website for single BB’s kind of like that mitten one? 1 7/8’s by chance? Anyone have another one?
LOL, I’ll pull it off this evening and hang onto it
Got a set of new Bearing Buddy Bras, if anyone wants them. Size 19B. Pick up in either Crystal or the Brooklyn Park/Maple Grove area, as they’re too cheap to ship.
Gimme a shout if you need a spare Buddy. It’s a model 1980. Free!
Model: 1980
Hub Bore (mm): 50.41
Outer Bearing Cone: L-44643, L-44649, L-44640
Outer Bearing Cup (race): L44610
Plastic water bottles fit on my hubs quite well( so I discovered when I lost one this spring). No duct tape required. I cut the bottle in half, removed the lid, and carefully tapped it in place on the hub. Once the cover went back on the bottle, I could not get it off. Made it 100 miles home. 
This thread jinxed me!! Lost ONE BB last nite.
First one i’ve ever lost…
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