Gear head question…

  • roosterrouster
    Inactive
    The "IGH"...
    Posts: 2092
    #1271400

    …(I say “Gear head” with all due respect cause I most certainly am not…)
    2003 Ford F-150 w/140,000 miles. I was driving to Mille Lacs to jig for perch last week (Not in the biting mood might I add…) and went to set my cruise control. It didn’t work. When I hit “set” the green light on the dash that says “Cruise” quickly flashes but then goes away and the speed does not stay at my desired speed. It never locks it in…Ideas fellas’? …RR

    trumar
    Rochester, Mn
    Posts: 5967
    #949227

    Its so hard to diagnose over the phone fer say… but my first guess would be the cruise module is NOT holding the on position.

    Check wire connections on the module.

    Where are your cruise controls located ? Turn signal lever or steering wheel center?

    trumar
    Rochester, Mn
    Posts: 5967
    #949234

    I just found this on the internet …….

    Self-Test Diagnostics

    WARNING:
    This test is a key on engine off (KOEO) test only that is conducted in park only with emergency brake fully engaged.

    1. Enter self-test diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. Five additional flashes at this point indicate a defective speed control servo. Release the OFF switch.

    2. Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.

    If the ON switch is not depressed within five seconds after entering the diagnostics mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over.

    The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.

    Note:
    There will be a slight delay when the last button is pressed and the lamp flashes.

    3. A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the static test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.

    If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:

    – 2 flashes – BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).

    – 3 flashes – De-activator switch is open or circuit defective.

    – 4 flashes – vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective

    4. Immediately (.25 second delay) after the static test, the speed control servo does a dynamic test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the dynamic throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the throttle returns to the idle position.

    5. Return the ignition switch to the OFF position and proceed to the Symptom Chart. ——-

    trumar
    Rochester, Mn
    Posts: 5967
    #949236

    Also found this ……

    CC switch is located in front of the brake reservoir – as part of the unit. Part of the switch is colored orange or bright red.————— There was a recall for this ford f-150 cruise control switch.This problem was noticed by many others too.But this recall was for the ford f-150 2002 cars.And your car is 2003 ford f-150.But still the problem is same.Like which was mentioned under recall.The car till 2002 year model,this repair was done by ford dealer for free.But for 2003 models they will test the switch,if there is short problem they will replace the switch or they will disconnect the switch and connect additional jumper between the main switch and the cruise control switch.So if the switch gets short,it will actually not get faulty,but that external jumper will get short.And you can easily replace that jumper,that is no at all costly.But switch is bit costly/.On some cases,but not in all, the same problem was caused by brake shift interlock switch was causing the problem. So at the dealer,they will confirm this possibility also.As this problem was faced by many other too.So you confirm with your dealer,if they count your car year of 2003 model under recall,if possible.

    t-ellis
    Colorado Springs, CO
    Posts: 1316
    #949237

    a bad fuse? seems there is a fuse or relay for everything in newer vehicles and is often the culprit.

    super_do
    St Michael, MN
    Posts: 1089
    #949240

    2010 F150?

    Newexplorer
    Posts: 53
    #949241

    I had a problem like that on 04 jeep.. Vacuum line broke/cracked in several places . replaced all lines. good to go.. hope this helps..

    roosterrouster
    Inactive
    The "IGH"...
    Posts: 2092
    #949298

    Thanks guys for your input! I will check these things out…RR

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