Post auto warranty

What is the best( post) auto warranty for bumper to bumper coverage without alot of hassled trying to get your velicle fixed ? Thanks

The BEST is to pay yourself LESS than the same amount you would fork out to some other company and create your own account. You will be surprised how fast you have the money to pay off any repairs and then some.

setb up a account for repairs,do regular maintnence-oli changes-tune ups-trans services etc

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The BEST is to pay yourself LESS than the same amount you would fork out to some other company and create your own account. You will be surprised how fast you have the money to pay off any repairs and then some.

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agree

I think they are all scams, I hear they frequently go out of business, and youre out of warranty…

Do you have your vehicle serviced at a dealership? Find out which extended warranty they sell. A lot of times if they sell the warranty and you have the work done with them the deductible is less. Working at a dealership I have seen warranties more than pay for themselves on just 1 repair.

Old thread, I know, but wanted to throw in my .02. Purchased my 2016 Silverado in 2019 with 30k miles, along with that I added an extended warranty ($2500) don’t ask me why I did, my wife even questioned the decision after we got home. Hadn’t used it since and frankly forgot about it. Flash forward to 71k miles and last week’s bitter cold, engine light pops on, my scanner gives me code P06DD. A little googling says it’s likely the Oil Pump. A little more googling starts showing me the work involved and costs of replacing said oil pump(I typically prefer to do most of my own repairs). I start discussing with my wife about it and figuring out what we’re going to do when she says “what about that extended warranty you bought, would it cover this?” ***Oh…I forgot about that!!***

Long story short the Chevy service center I brought the truck to just called and said the truck is being worked on (16 hour job) and also found the alternator with a bearing going bad. All in I’ll have the original $2500 purchase, plus the $100 deductible. The Service Advisor I worked with said the last one they did was $7500 just to replace the pump. Haven’t gotten the final tally of everything but I’ll say this extended warranty saved my A$$.

The Service Advisor even raved about the warranty company, he stated they are incredibly easy to work with and rarely have issues with them.

So if you’re looking for an extended warranty, CNA is an incredible company to use.

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I was leery of getting extended warranty on my wife’s vehicle but glad we got it. We have Route66 and they are replacing her engine with a Certified Remanufactured engine with like a 3 year warranty at no cost to us. Trouble is the motor is on backorder and no idea when it will get fixed so its buried under 2 feet of snow at the dealer.

I just had warranty work done, axle, intermediate, cv boot.
Then water pump and both exhaust intakes. I’m at 98k on my truck and now she would be ready for trade in if I wanted to pay these ridiculous new truck prices.
But I am happy my bumper to bumper goes to 150k

My dealer has a life time warranty available with new truck purchase. Bought the truck in 2016 and warranty was $4000. Haven’t had to use it yet but I usually run my truck too 115,000. 60,000 on it now.

My last 3 vehicles have all come from a Luther dealership. They have an Advantage Warranty that can extend the manufacturer warranty for a reasonable cost when you buy the vehicle. I have always done this through 100k miles and the cost of the warranty was between 400-700 bucks depending on the vehicle.

It pays for itself with one major problem. Just last week I had an anti freeze leak on my F150. The cost would have been $425 to fix it but my warranty covered the whole bill. There is usually a deductible of $100 but mine is gone now because of their “vanishing deductible.”

Beyond 100k miles I am not sure if there is a warranty available. I don’t keep my vehicles that long.

Extended warranty paid for itself on my truck …

That said I also have had plenty of trucks and cars that I have owned between 100K and 285K miles (wanted 300K until they stole the cc) … anyway plenty of really good mechanics out there that work at a fraction of the cost of a dealership.

In this market and a typical market buy a vehicle well and sell it before it’s out of warranty while it’s still worth good money

Slipbob nick wrote:

In this market and a typical market buy a vehicle well and sell it before it’s out of warranty while it’s still worth good money

I typically do this. But when I bought my truck for 22k and put 98k on it, last week they offered me 29.5k for it. I dont want to buy new. I’d rather buy a 98

Slipbob nick wrote:

In this market and a typical market buy a vehicle well and sell it before it’s out of warranty while it’s still worth good money

Not sure that is the best route to preserving cash and cash flow unless you are comfortable selling the vehicle on your own.

Right now the used car market is upside down. Anyone turning in a leased car right now has to be crazy.

My daughter leased a Subaru at the perfect time. She went from a 2001 Civic to a 2020 Subaru SUV.

Her payments are very low, you don’t pay tax on the part of the vehicle not purchased, no repair bills … well the residual was already better than 3 year old SUVs on their lot back then … and now she stands to make more that 5K if this crazy used market price point hold and she decided to flip it and move on.

I told her we are buying out her lease if she won’t.

Most lease companies will also negotiate lease residuals (either way) based on market dynamics at lease end.

I usually buy a truck that is 1-2 years old with low mileage and buy a Route 66 extended extended warranty from my credit union (TopLine) My current truck is covered thru 120k bumper to bumper. I had one on my previous truck as well( drove to 175k) which I did not use which could be seen as wasted money but my current truck more than made up for it, as I fell victim to the 5.3 engine collapsed lifter issue ($5400) among several other 1k+ repairs.

No issues getting Route 66 to cover any of the repairs. I am not mechanically inclined and just surrendered to the fact that these new trucks are generally pretty reliable but when they break…..

I’ve never won this lottery so I’m not sure that I’ll ever play it again.

Krh129 wrote:

I had one on my previous truck as well( drove to 175k) which I did not use which could be seen as wasted money

Typically if you do not use the extended warranty you get the money back or at least a portion of it.

I’ve seen warranties save thousands for people while also being a waste of thousands for others. It’s a crapshoot, but the odds are clearly in the favor of those issuing the warranties. They are making substantial money on warranties or they wouldn’t sell them. It’s like going to a casino. They payout, but they also know their income will dwarf that.

The biggest factor is knowing how long you will keep the vehicle and to plan accordingly while sticking to that plan. Buying an extravagant warranty only to flip the vehicle relatively soon is just hurting your wallet twice.

When I bought a new truck in 2018 the dealer sold me an extended warranty to go to 120k miles. Just before the factory warranty was over at about 49.5k miles the transmission made a slight noise, that I thought was the alternator. I was very busy and didn’t get in until 50.2k miles but I wasn’t too concerned since I had the extended warranty. The dealer said it was the transmission making the noise. Maybe it was the pump. The dealer said that the warranty was void because the truck had a plow on it. I made it well known that the person that sold the warranty to me knew I was putting a plow on the truck. We talked about it, and I had to delay picking the new truck a couple days up because it was going to snow, and there wasn’t time to get a plow on the new truck. In the end the dealer did refund my $2750, and I brought my truck to an independent mechanic, and he said that was a common slight noise and he wouldn’t take it apart and just drive it. I put another 50k miles on it with no issues and traded in a year and a half later. That mechanic did say that there are some really bad after market warranty companies that will never pay for a repair that should be covered, but they always deny coverage. Worse yet they have asked to tear down the motor or whatever the issue is and then still deny the claim and tell the policy owner they are on the hook for the extra work taking it apart. The example he gave was a rod bearing that was knocking, so they said take it apart. It was the oil pump that failed and they still said they wouldn’t cover it. If you are getting a warranty read the fine print, and do as much research as you can before you sign any papers to see what is covered, and what if anything voids the warranty.

instead of buying an extended warranty i just bought a Toyota

Post Script – ill be sure to pull this thread up down the road when this comment bites me in the arse lol

Extended warranties are like vehicle insurance… you don’t need it until you do. Unlike vehicle insurance, extended warranties are not required. To the question of “the Best one” having dealt with them from a dealer standpoint, the manufacturers are the “best” as far as easy to deal with… the worst are the ones that call you and harass you, they have an option to put LKQ parts in your vehicle… aka Used parts, such as engines and axles. I have never heard of a Manufacturer warranty installing used parts. Also, most dealerships sell their own “self-insured” plans… they are typically good too when returning to the dealership… most have a clause the repairs need to be done at the selling dealership, when with-in 50 miles or so.

buckybadger wrote:

The biggest factor is knowing how long you will keep the vehicle and to plan accordingly while sticking to that plan. Buying an extravagant warranty only to flip the vehicle relatively soon is just hurting your wallet twice.

This is probably the most important item to consider. Most new or newer vehicles come with a factory certified warranty already. I am not one to drive a vehicle forever just because I don’t want to, so once my warranty is done, I’m done driving it and I move on to the next vehicle.

As previously stated, sometimes it pays off, sometimes it doesn’t. Mine have always paid off.

I believe most manufacturer warranties can be purchased anytime while under the factory warranty (typically 3 years/36,000 miles) without penalty. Most people typically purchase the warranty when financing the vehicle… most lenders also like it when the vehicle is covered for at least the length of the finance terms. Also, if you do buy a extended warranty and change your mind on the vehicle and get rid of it prematurely, call the warranty company and cancel and you will get refunded a pro rated portion.

gimruis wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>buckybadger wrote:</div>
The biggest factor is knowing how long you will keep the vehicle and to plan accordingly while sticking to that plan. Buying an extravagant warranty only to flip the vehicle relatively soon is just hurting your wallet twice.

This is probably the most important item to consider. Most new or newer vehicles come with a factory certified warranty already. I am not one to drive a vehicle forever just because I don’t want to, so once my warranty is done, I’m done driving it and I move on to the next vehicle.

As previously stated, sometimes it pays off, sometimes it doesn’t. Mine have always paid off.

For those who don’t drive a new vehicle beyond factory warranty…that then opens the can of worms towards leasing vs. buying. Pre-Covid, if you put on less than 15k miles a year and did not own vehicles beyond their factory warranty it almost always was cheaper to lease your vehicle. Covid economics have thrown any supply and demand curves for vehicles array. At some point this will likely be true again.

buckybadger wrote:

I’ve seen warranties save thousands for people while also being a waste of thousands for others. It’s a crapshoot, but the odds are clearly in the favor of those issuing the warranties. They are making substantial money on warranties or they wouldn’t sell them. It’s like going to a casino. They payout, but they also know their income will dwarf that.

This is the right answer. Not gonna fault anyone for buying one to avoid a major cash outlay on a repair, but the companies selling them make far more money than they lose.

buckybadger wrote:

They are making substantial money on warranties or they wouldn’t sell them.

They stopped selling the lifetime version of these so maybe that means it’s a good deal… At 136k but the only issues I’ve had so far is to replace leaking transmission cooler and two windshield wiper motor replacements. The transmission cooler would have been ~700 I think they said, not sure how much windshield wiper motors are.

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This thread had me curious so I checked with my dealer and online for what options were available on my 2017 with just under 60k. For another 60-75k mile bumper to bumper warranty (getting me to 120k-135k on my truck) with a $100 deductible it was $3000-$4400. Personally I don’t think that makes a lot of sense, as the cost alone covers 1-2 smaller repairs IF they were to happen. Add in that I’ve gotten to 60k with no issues (not a lemon) and I had basically the same truck previously get to 160k before I traded it in with no issues. Like Crappie I will go knock on wood and cite this post in the future when it bites me.

It is an mechanical insurance policy. If you like the idea of paying something upfront and not having to foot the unexpected bill … get one.