Bilge pump question

Hey guys any help here would be appriciated, my bilge pump quit working and yes I have checked the fuse. I have a mayfair 500 GPH I think made by Johnson. There is a black and brown wire coming from the pump and I’m pretty sure I can trace the black to my negative on the battery but I can not trace the brown. It must go up to the switch on the panel I asume. All there is is Just those 2 wires as theres no 3 way or protector fuse to the battery( as I have read on the internet thats they way it should be) any help on how I should hook up a new pump.

Thanks guys,
Wahly

I kinda have the same question.. it for my live well. my pump is only 22 years old.. and I am wondering if my unit “snaps in”… like the guard is screwed to the boat and then the pump snaps into the guard..also I am wondering if the pump is actually bad.. it just didn’t turn on this year.. no squeeking or nothing..

any opinion or a way to check if the unit is still good.. I would like to know..

No tricks here. One is pos (brwn) the other neg (blk).
Switch should be wired to the fuse block. Just plug the new one in. Change connectors if needed. -Mark

If you have a Bass Pro or Cabelas catalogue you could use for referance on which type pump you might have. Some of the Mayfair bilge or livewell pumps are replaceable cartridge pumps. Which come in 500,750 or 1000gph. It is common for these to lock up or just quit working. I replace mine it seems every couple years & keep a couple backup cartridges for in case measures. The cartridges have 2 ears sticking out that you twist counterclockwise to remove which leaves the outer case mounted in the boat & have 2 wires pos. & neg that feed them power.

Most of the newer pumps have the housing screwed or rivited to a plate then the motor is snapped into place with a twist and a locking tab. If you look down at the pump and see if it has a tab on the side near the top by the motor then you should beable to pull the motor. Just gently pull the tab out to the side of the housing and grab the motor and twist counter-clockwise I believe and lift out. Sometimes the impellar wheel gets jambed up with sand. Just turn it by hand and blow it off and test it with it in your hand to see if it works. Some of the wiring harnesses will have a grounding block near the pump. The newer Lund boats are this way. They have male and female connctors to make it easy to swap out the cartridge. Before you do this it might be wise to check the power at the switch they do go bad often. Fleet farm sells Mayfair and have decent prices if you need to get one. If you have power at the switch cut the wires by the motor and check for power their. if you have power at the wires then the motor is bad. I hope this helps you out.

old rat…yep…that’s a good name for a guy with a 22 year-
old livewell pump.

btw .. I remembered last week, why I don’t use the front live well.. it leaks.. into the boat.. but under the cap.. ..so we had a northern in the well, and I just let it run instead of automatic.. and the guy I was fishing with goes.. BOB.. Uh.. the boat is sinking cuz there is water coming up the drain.. “

and he is like.. panic.. and I flip two switches, stop the front live well fill, and hit the bilge that still works afer 22 years.. MAN I AM REALLY MAD THAT THE LIVE WELL PUMP WENT OUT IN JUST 22 YEARS.. ,

and in about 10 /15 minutes.. we were all good..

no big deal…

Thanks White tip & Rigger, your answeers helped. I found the housing attached to a plate and removed the pump and its not a replacable one. tested the wiring and have power, so bad pump. Searched Amazon and found the Rule 25D 500 GPH pump which looks like I will order that one with the replacable carterides. Should be back on the water fishing in couple of days.

Thanks

Glad to hear you figured it out. The replacable cartidges are nice to have.

While on the subject of pumps.

Each spring when I test them for the first time, I listen for any off noises…squeeking, whining ect. If there is a noise that doesn’t sound right, I’ll pull them out far enough to work on them without disconnecting the wires. Couple drops of 2N1 oil, run them a bit and a couple more drops.

An ounce of prevention….

Good sound advice Briank, I’m going to add that to my spring list of tune up to check.

Thanks

If your fuse blows repeatedly when a (bilge) pump won’t operate:

1) check to see if there is material (pebble, cigarette package wrapper) jamming the pump’s impellor

2) or, nudge the impellor away from the pump motor on the shaft just a bit.

Ranger positioned the bilge access on my ’96 690 VS beneath a battery tray, so it is more than a pain to get at the pumps.

I guess that my deal is How do I change the dopey thing out.. all I have is a round screw off hatch opening to get to it.. I’ll have to see if it snaps in or not.. other wise its not a two hand thing..

advice is appreciated..

Rat, I’m not sure what boat you have. I have a 2001 Lund.

The pump is attached to the boat by two sheet metal screws. Once those are out, then it’s a radiator hose clap that holds the hose on that takes the water to the discharge outlet.

Although I can reach one hand in through the access hole right above the bilge, my other hand can help some what by going in through the battery compartment.

If it’s the snap out cartridge style…same thing, just don’t have to remove the two screws that hold it in place.

(note: if your battery terminals are exposed. Take off your watch and other metals for safety reasons)

I have a brand new Kingfisher Bass boat ( number 3 for 1988 August of 87..)

and the units are straight down from the back opening.. and they are right above the pad.. but there is no way to get there from anywhere else .. at least not that I can think of .. you can get your whole arm in there.. but I have no stinking clue how you get that out.. and I have the patience of mad man on 400 cups of coffee with extra mocha.. this is just not my type of work.. I am a try it once and then beat your head on cement type of guy..

there is a screen on the outside of the transom but I think that that’s just the screen to prevent weeds from going inside the pump.. but I really don’t know for sure..

Sorry Rat, I thought we were still on bilge pumps. The live well pump gets REALLY complicated!

Besides a screw driver and a channel lock you’ll need a flashlight and possibly a neighbor kid.

Some aireators were installed directly to the transom. If this is the case you would see a plastice round tube that goes clear through the transom from the screen to the pump. If it is one piece this is what you do. First take off the screen, you will notice a big plastic nut, unloosen this. This nut is what holds the pump onto the transom. There might be some silicon on it as well. Pull the hose coming off from the tank off the pump, this will be a hose clamp tighened down on the pump outlet. If the hose is being stubborn leave the nut on the other side of the transom for some holding power. The worst part will be getting the hose off. Then you can look for wire connections to see if you could just disconnect or you might need to cut wires. Make sure battery power is disconnected before cutting wires. Try these steps and see how that works for you. I am guessing you have the transom mounted pump.