I am purchasing a home that is just being finished. It appears that there is some fairly minor concrete spall on the driveway that the builder says was from salt over the winter. He said he will replace the area or cover that entire driveway with a sealant that he said will stop the damage and prevent all future damage. Thoughts?
If you are purchasing a new home, you obviously want a new driveway, have him replace the bad section at his cost. 
Quote:
I am purchasing a home that is just being finished. It appears that there is some fairly minor concrete spall on the driveway that the builder says was from salt over the winter. He said he will replace the area or cover that entire driveway with a sealant that he said will stop the damage and prevent all future damage. Thoughts?
Whatever he does… get the “future damage clause” in writing 
big G 
replace!!
Is it new concreat last year? They have some good patches now days but if the concreat got sealed U half 2 strip it all off if 2 get the patch 2 bond 2 the old creat if he coveres the whole thing . And remember a patch is still just a patch 
Since I repair the stuff for a living…have him replace it if it is a brand new home. The spalling will not stop even with a sealer and the sealers will wear. The only one made for traffic is about $80 a gal and will only last one year in a drive lane. The spall may not be from salt, but may be from shale in the mix. Where did the concrete come from (batch plant) To save hassle, I would have it replaced if it was me and it was a brand new home.
What do u mean spall is the top popping is that what u mean if it is. Its caused from pouring to late in the year and the mouisture freezing in it before the concrete is cured all the way or they used a five bag mix when they should of used a six bag mix or from salt which they should know never put on in the first year and always shovel drive way first year its curing right away. If it is the top popping make them replace other wise u r screwed will continue to get worse hope this helps
Post deleted by Tony Apisa
Thanks for the responses. I will have them replace it. Is there a sealer I should apply to the exterior concrete? Builder recommended something called Acryl Pen. I had never heard of it.
I am a pavement contractor. If it truly is spall in your driveway, is it spalled crack or control joint spall?
Crack spall is like rust on a 72 Maverick. You can paint over it, bondo over it, chicken wire over it, but it continues to rust underneath and eventually through any patch. This is true of all spall but especially spalled crack. It will NEVER stop until cut out and replaced. My question to your contractor is HOW did it spall in 1 year? Did you put SALT on it? Anywhere?
If the answer is yes, replace the whole drive. One should never ever ever salt concrete less than 2 years old. If you do you’ll see the top inch of concrete pop (crater) a little more each subsequent winter until it looks like the surface of the moon. My $.02
Good luck!
If he will replace it go for it. sealing should stop it but needs to be done every year. Some spawling is normal. But is is in in a only a small area usually to hot when the did it or added to much water. Agree with dog2th as I also do concrete. If he will replace it why not.
11 years of commercial concrete experience here.
“popped” or spalled concrete is caused by a ton of things that others have listed above. 9 times out of 10 is it from excessive water in the mix when poured. There are way too many crews out there pouring concrete at 6,7, and even 8 inch slumps. Slump testing is done to ensure that the proper amount of water is in the mix. Long story short, The less water in a mix, the better. Most State and City concrete is to be poured at a slump no greater than 3″.
Even longer story short: Dirt, Water, bad aggregate all do the same thing. They create voids in the concrete. Moisture sets into the cured concrete and expands and contracts in the weather. Salt speeds up the process. So, if its happening to one spot,…it will happen to the rest. Try and get the entire thing replaced and set up an independent testing company to be there to take samples. Its a couple hundred dollars to do so, but it keeps the contractor from pouring to wet, and ensures you have good concrete. When I do side work, I always set up a tester. That way, I’ve shown I poured properly with good concrete.
Sealing the concrete isn’t as important as applying a curing compound. Especially in dry weather.
Matt put it best. Explained perfectly.
I saw a show on tv the other day showing why California contractors go thru a certification process by the state before they BID any job over $500 and the horror stories that went along with those who took the low bid.
A note to all: The low bid is not the cheapest. Check references in the future.
Matt’s all over it ,Great advise!
I’m a Commercial Site Superintendent for 15 years, and grew up in this business, not a know it all but been around projects of 10 Mill or so.
If it is cut out, epoxy dowel it back in, if with-in the expansion joint area. Otherwise if they use expansion joint, seal the joint to aid in freeze/thaw movement changes over time.
There is a lot more to the thinking, and area of placement for other consideration to the repair, but in general in residential construction good advice!
My 2 cents, Back to you Matt.
I also have a relatively new concrete driveway that is showing issues. Does anyone have a referral for a company that seals concrete driveways? How much does it typically cost?
When I had a project in Trussville AL. I had a contractor down there that did a superb job!
OOps sorry, I have no idea where you live.
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
