Ball Joints

  • Nitrodog
    Posts: 848
    #1266546

    My 2004 F-350 4×4 needs ball joints, any idea how much this will cost? Thanks

    Jeremiah Shaver
    La Crosse, WI
    Posts: 4941
    #851534

    I had the front 2 done on my ’03 Dodge Ram last year, included some bushings of some kind and 4 new tires….cost about 1200…tires were roughly 500 of it though.

    bigpike
    Posts: 6259
    #851540

    Kinda funny you mentioned this, as of today I need new ball joints on my 98′ F150. Depends on the joint. The upper is more expensive $150 per side roughly but easy to install, the lowers are cheaper $60 per side but more labor intensive to install. Atleast on my truck. Your’s might be a little different price wise but I’m guessing its pretty close. Not real happy about this seeing I just replaced the same joints 40,000 miles ago. I am guessing the last guy that installed them went with cheapo parts. Good luck it wont be that cheap for you to replace them….

    huskerdu
    Posts: 592
    #851541

    I did my own in a day,(6 HRS) not the most pleasant job! You will need a ball joint press for removing and installing,(large inpact is nice also) may as well do the brake pads while the front end is apart.

    hairjig
    Cudahy, Wis.
    Posts: 937
    #851549

    Bring a very large wallet !!

    Chris
    Rochester, MN
    Posts: 1396
    #851563

    I need to replace them on a 96 Exploder. Uppers are more $ than lowers and my quote was $750 for the OEM quality (parts and labor) and $870 for the higher quality parts.

    Ouch…

    trumar
    Rochester, Mn
    Posts: 5967
    #851564

    Quote:


    My 2004 F-350 4×4 needs ball joints, any idea how much this will cost? Thanks


    If that truck has the vacuum seals for the 4×4 on the spindles housings you want to replace those while apart also.

    I cant give you exact cost on joint replacement ,but I do know its not cheap .I do know while apart do the uppers and lowers at the same time, saves $$$ in the long run.

    prodrive-al
    Elkhorn, WI
    Posts: 182
    #851569

    2002 F-350 SRW, had upper and lowers, and axle u-joints done 6/09. Used all heavy duty greaseable parts and it was about $950. Didn’t do any tie rod ends, truck had 85k on it at the time. Definitly $$$ well spent, couldn’t hardly keep it on the road before, now drives like new…

    big_g
    Isle, MN
    Posts: 22456
    #851584

    Chilton labor time guide, says 5.5 hours to do all, uppers and lowers…. not too bad IMHO. A little less if it’s a Dually ???

    big G

    mule170
    Bemidji
    Posts: 299
    #851586

    Should be right around $1000 for uppers and lowers. Make sure to replace the vacuum seals. Alot easier and cheaper when everything is apart.

    andyboecker
    Central MN
    Posts: 9
    #851614

    Ball joints are expensive dude, as long as you have the front end all torn apart you might as well do replace the u-joints up there too, It is a minor cost now to avoid having to to it in a few months when one of them goes to hell. The cost all depends on where you take it too. Good luck!!

    Mike Klein
    Hastings, MN
    Posts: 1026
    #851714

    figure 600 a side upper and lower at dealer. knock about 100 a side off not at dealer. most newer parts have grease fitting unlike original.

    deerdragger
    Posts: 346
    #851774

    If you have a moderate amount of mechanical ability (ie: you replace your own brakes), doing these yourself isn’t that big of a deal. Yeah, you’ll need a ball joint press – but you can pick that up for about a hundred bucks – and you’ll be set for the next project. Call around for parts, depending on the store you’ll probably be able to find ball joints for a cheap as 20 bucks each. That’s what I paid a few months ago for my Expedition (lowers, not uppers).

    Get a little greasy, break a little sweat, and save yourself HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS.

    Yeah, point-and-pay makes sense sometimes, but think of what you could do with the dollars saved…

    And you would be AMAZED at how easy it is to find step-by-step instructions online – for just about any make/model. I quit buying Chiltons/Hanes manuals about 3 years ago. It’s all out there for free.

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