Makeing blade baits

  • wwayn720
    West central Wi
    Posts: 46
    #1266307

    I was wondering if anyone makes or paints their own blade baits? I am thinking of buying a mold and was wondering if it would be worth it. I already have a melting pot as well as a few other jig molds so this would just be an additon to the collection. A few years ago I discovered that I could make some by flattning willowleafe blades and pinching a slitted egg sinker to it. There is also a youtube video on makeing blade baits from scratch were I discovered that by putting the blade in the sinker mold I could have the head attached permenently (had a few mishaps on the earlier versions). These bladed caught fish but also have some major flaws. The hooks endup being to close together and were constently tangling, the holes were drilled very inconsistently due to not haveing good pattern, and the willowleafe blades I used for the blanks would crack from being bent to much. So basically I am looking for a method to make my blades more consitent and a lot less time consuming to make.

    Another thing I was wondering about is hooks and paint paterns. In the past I just grabed whatever hooks I could find and put them on with a splitt-ring should I be cutting the eye of the hook so that it is attached direcly to the blade if so does anyone have a good hook recomendation (long shank short shank)? As far a paint patterns I am just looking for some segestions.

    One last question. Is there a spell check on this site?

    Thanks guys

    wimwuen
    LaCrosse, WI
    Posts: 1960
    #846445

    The mold is ok, but there are some major considerations. You will need to clear out the pour holes a little. You’ll want to make sure you’re using good soft lead too (no wheel weights).

    Another thing I’ve found is you need a good fast pour. A decent production pot with the bottom pour spout is an absolute must for pouring blades. Keep the mold warm, and the inserts must be warm to or the lead won’t stick well. I just started pouring my own, and the blades look good. I still have to get a little better at painting though.

    I did build a powder paint fluid bed so that should help a lot. As for hooks, I use the Mustad split trebles. I’d never use split rings, as the added length is pretty much a recipe for hang ups. Pouring blades is much harder than pouring jigs.

    Just be prepared to make sure you have good equipment if you’re going to try to pour blades. These have to be perfect so you can’t skimp on any of the components. If you use quality components, you can pour your own for less than half the cost, but you still have to paint them, and take the time to do it.

    mike_j
    Nashua Iowa
    Posts: 754
    #846446

    You can buy what looks to be the exact same mold the BfishN blades are from Do-it molds in Denver Iowa.

    timschmitz
    Waconia MN
    Posts: 1652
    #846447

    One last question. Is there a spell check on this site?

    No spell check and I need it too. Sorry can’t help with the blades.

    tom_gursky
    Michigan's Upper Peninsula(Iron Mountain)
    Posts: 4751
    #846462

    I have made blades…and been through all of the above (good advice). Many guys buy unpainted blade bodies, powder dip or (better yet) air brush them and add the hooks of their choice. (VMCs are by far the best)…
    I do not have a source for you but they are out there…places like Netcraft…

    suckerslayer
    Red Wing, MN
    Posts: 433
    #846468

    I tried buying blanks and making my own for a while but for the cost savings, time, and quality I have found it is just easier to buy them from Evert’s.

    wmahnke
    Eau Claire, WI
    Posts: 100
    #846472

    ive been pouring blades for about 4 or 5 years soft lead is the best but wheel lead does work but real dirty the temp on the mold and the blanks is very important ive tried several times using powder paint but for the price of an air brush it is well well worth it i do it for the fun but when it come down to it its worth it to buy them if u want certin patterns on them painting is were it get tricky

    wimwuen
    LaCrosse, WI
    Posts: 1960
    #846497

    I’d also like to add, that the only reason I’m making my own is because I like catching fish on lures I personally made. To me, that’s half the fun. I like pulling streamer flies for Walleyes, especially ones that I hand tied. I like pitching jigs that I molded with a half crawler in summer.

    Do I save a lot of money? No, and I buy more than my fair share of blades from Dean, I just like the added challenge of comming up with that secret new color or pattern.

    tom_gursky
    Michigan's Upper Peninsula(Iron Mountain)
    Posts: 4751
    #846516

    I understand completely…tied flies, made jigs, (still tie my own Hair Jigs)…and made rods. Make all my own arrows, even chop my own turkey feathers.

    Then get the DO IT mold, air bed for the granite powder, and start the learning curve…Its fun!

    wimwuen
    LaCrosse, WI
    Posts: 1960
    #846520

    Yep, I got a mold, production pot, good lead, and built a fluid bed. Can’t wait.

    nord
    Posts: 736
    #846613

    Send me a PM, I have quite a few blades with the weights on them, not painted, and a mold too!

    wwayn720
    West central Wi
    Posts: 46
    #846663

    Like some of you guys I like to tinker and catching fish on handmade baits is the icing on the cake. I am not worried about having them come out perfect it makes me feel better in the end when I loose them anyway. The big question here is will I get enough use out of the mold to justify buying it?

    wwayn720
    West central Wi
    Posts: 46
    #846664

    Quote:


    Send me a PM, I have quite a few blades with the weights on them, not painted, and a mold too!


    Message sent

    wimwuen
    LaCrosse, WI
    Posts: 1960
    #846667

    How many do you go through. I can go through at least 50 in a normal year between pitching to snag infested shorelines etc… If you loose less than 10 a year, I’d say no, it’s not going to save you a whole lot by time you buy a mold, decent lead, all the paint, a good melting pot (if you don’t have one). I figure you’ll need to make 100-150 blades that you’re going to use if you want to really save any money.

    wwayn720
    West central Wi
    Posts: 46
    #846683

    I just started fishing them in the last few years and just purely guessing I would say I lost 20-30 last year but quit fishing with them once the smallmouth started biting. I realize that the mold probobly wont pay for itself right away but in the longrun it will be cheeper and a lot of fun making and painting more baits. I seriuosly have an addiction to making baits icluding ice fishing jigs both teardrops and jigging spoons(as tedious as it is), trout spinners, bucktails, and others. I also tie flys and hair jigs I even turn my own musky and bass plugs on a lath. Its just in my blood and I love it.

    johnksully
    Lakeville, MN
    Posts: 678
    #936778

    For the guys that are painting blade baits. Do you need to prime the brass bodies before you paint them? Or do you just put a coat of paint on them and clear coat them? Thanks.

    eye-full
    Waterloo,Ia,USA
    Posts: 660
    #936892

    If you don’t want to buy a mold, sometimes a baitshop will rent a mold out, worth a shot. My family uses blades alot ever since back in the 70s so we have a mold for 1/8, 1/4 and 1/2 oz.

    My suggestion is make sure the lead is hot and running fast and the mold is hot. Run a few empty batches, just get it hot. As far as paint, never liked the powder paint for blades I know others do. I like spraying mine, just make sure they are light on the blade part for best vibration. Just poured 100 up a week ago, good luck.

    eye-full
    Waterloo,Ia,USA
    Posts: 660
    #936898

    Sorry ya I will put a light undercoat on, but most times I like the blade showing through a little or bare, that’s just my personal preference.

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