Transducer Question

I’m thinking about putting another transducer in my boat and using the same unit. I know I have to get the right transducer for my unit.My Question is. Do I have to use the toggle switch from lowrance at $100.00 +S&H or can I use an (on -off -on ) switch if the connections are made the right way? $100.00 for a switch seems like a lot to me. any and all info greatly appreciated. Jim

Well I think Gianni would be able to answer the why’s better than I, but if you’re thinking of going to your local hardware store and buying a regular toggle switch…it won’t work. Because the transducer is sending Radio Frequency signals you need a switch were the connections and the switch is sheilded to avoid loss of signal and picking up interferance. Also, (I haven’t been in this for years now) because it’s a transmitter, the switch has to match (resistense wise) the frequence of the trasmitter.

Since Wade is in the electronics, he may have some options for switches. I’m guessing from the connections (what else uses sonar frequencies) on the transducers, you are looking for a highly specialized switch available through the brand of locator you’re using.

This is what I’m hoping for. I know there is someone out there that knows more about this than I. I’m hoping for some options on the switch. I depend on it too much and don’t want to mess it up.If there is no options I will get the switch from lowrance. Jim

My answer is going to be a little bit wishy-washy, because this depends pretty heavily on the unit in question. I have an old flasher (I think that Pharoh order it’s development) that uses a pretty crappy unshielded two-wire cable. Needless to say, it will show me the bottom and an occasional fish, but not too much more. For that unit, I would guess that I could put a switch in the line, and any noise or impedance mismatch probably wouldn’t affect it’s operation too greatly.

On the other hand, the Eagle unit that I bought last year has a heavily shielded cable and connector for the transducer. The reason for the extra shielding is that the unit is sensitive enough to pick up anything and everything, including (usually) the thermocline during summer fishing. If I were to put a standard switch in line with the transducer on this puppy, the switch noise and radiated susceptibility would cause all kinds of stuff. Worst case would be capacitive coupling across both transducers, not sure that would make for a pretty picture. Basically, it might still work to show bottom and some stuff, but I’d bet you would have to crank the sensitivity down to the point where you’d be missing a lot of good stuff that’s worth seeing.

If you can try it without cutting the cables, you might give it a shot. All you’d be out is the cost of the switch (about $1.50, I’d think).

I think I will go with LEI extras- switch unless someone knows where I can get a like part by another manufacture besides LEI extras .I just thought that someone else might know where I could get the like part. Thanks to all. Jim

“impedance mismatch” Do you think I could think of these words the other night?

You still might want to PM Wade at Jollyann Marine…there’s a slim chance that someone else makes a switch…but very slim. Good Luck!

Thank You –Info is what I needed. Jim

Let us know what you decide, and how it works out for you.

It will take a little time as the water here is hard. I’ve decided to go with the LEI extras switch . I run my trolling motor from the driver seat . This should work out just fine only having one unit to take care of. This is one place one does not want to pinch pennies. I have located the right ducer and switch thanks to some info I got here. Thanks Guys. Jim ps Wade you was right I had the wrong one. Thanks Guy

Glad to help James. Hate to see a guy order the wrong part! Best of luck with this task.