GM question for you mechanics

I need to replace pads and rotors on the rear of a 99 GMC Jimmy. I did the front earlier this year, am I safe to assume the rear are the same as the front as far as disassembly and reassembly?? I hate starting a project then find out I’m missing 1 important tool. Even worse when I got just over an hour of daylight to work with and no garage.

They should be the same as long as the rear also have disk brakes. As long as they are disks and not drums they should be the same as far as i know Good luck and keep your hands warm

I do believe the rears are rotors and pads with a internal park brake shoe. If so… the rotors can be hard to get off due to the park brake shoes , 1st you need to back off the park brake shoe to remove the rotor, from then on it basic as the front .NOT forgetting to set up the parkbrake shoes when done.

Yes they are disk, hopefully that E brake don’t be a pain.

Don’t you need a special tool to screw the caliper back in on rear brakes?? I don’t believe you can just squeeze them back in like you can with the front…. Not sure on GM but that is the way my Nissan rear brakes were.
Whatsa

Not on the GM rear disc brake anymore. They all use an internal drum park brake; the twisting and pushing was for calipers incorporated with the park brake.

I have a similiar question…maybe someone can help me as well. 99 grand prix, 200k. Same scenario as mentioned above…rear disc w/drum inside. Changed rotors and pads a couple of days ago….not calipers. Ran the car several miles and pulled into the garage. Rotors are HOT and I mean HOT! Assumed calipers were shot, so replaced calipers last night. Drove a few miles…same result, but only on driver side. What else could be causing this? Do I need to push a bunch of brake fluid through that line….maybe some debris plugging on the return? Caliper still pushes back in fine w/ clamp, but will not return on own once pressure is built up?

Any suggestions? I am frustrated w/ this one.

cnass, I would bet your flexible hoses are shot internally. They come apart on the inside and act kinda like a check valve, holding just a little pressure on the caliper. The worst part of changing them is getting the hard lines loose.
Hope this helps.

Thanks for the response. You talking the short 12 inch or so from the caliper to the frame, and would you just replace the one?

My guess also would be the brake hose on that side is colapsed ,very common on high milage GM’s.

Remember when bleading brakes with ABS not to pump fast and open the bleader to relief pressure b4 pushing piston in, sometimes when doing ABS bleeding you push fluid up into the ABS controller and it causes ABS issues, also when bleading brakes blead the brake the furthest away from the resivor first , working your way to the nearest.

Jeff

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Thanks for the response. You talking the short 12 inch or so from the caliper to the frame, and would you just replace the one?

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Yeah them’s the ones, might a well replace both as they’re both the same age and sure enough if you don’t the other one will collapse on you in the middle of nowhere don’t ask how I know…
Good luck with ’em

Easy fix and well needed. No inside pad left on the left and rotor was half way through the fins Just over an hour, not bad for doing it in the driveway.