Air infiltration from recessed can lights

A first-floor addition to my house contains a set of 6 recessed can lights. They leak air like sieves. I can stick my hand up near the lights and feel cold air pouring in. Bummer for the temp in that area and major bummer for my heating bills.

I need to address this air infiltration problem. It was suggeseted to me by an insulation company that I use some metallic tape to seal the holes in the can lights that are admitting air and caulk the seams between the lights and the ceiling.

Is doing that sort of modification feasible, or is it a better idea to replace the cans with airtight fixtures?

Here are the ones we install 6-inch Recessed Lighting Kit with Enclosed Baffle Interior Foam tape goes along way if your not looking to replace

where i used to work, we always made boxes around the lights out of the foam board insulation and caulked and taped them, that way they were sealed tight and insulation could be placed right up against the box. I always thought it was code to have something like that?

Is there access to the space above the lights? If so, make sure the lights are rated for direct contact with insulation( should be marked with the letters IC rated) and place insulation around the lights. The tape idea should work as well. If the lights are not air tight and you have no access from above an air tight can is the way to go.

I’m with a custom home builder, and it is our policy to make them air tight without exception! Take the measures stated above. You have another factor not yet stated – MOLD to deal with if not taken care of.

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Is there access to the space above the lights? If so, make sure the lights are rated for direct contact with insulation( should be marked with the letters IC rated) and place insulation around the lights. The tape idea should work as well. If the lights are not air tight and you have no access from above an air tight can is the way to go.

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Read that post

Older light fixtures need ventilation or they can cause a fire, you need to make sure it’s old to insulate around those lights.

I just caught that same info on Tv a couple days ago too.

If you do use the tape I WOULD NOT tape the factory openings in the can themselves like stated above, they need to breathe.

There is no access to the space above the lights, other than through the holes in the ceiling for the lights themselves.

Sounds like I’m moving down the replacement route.

Thanks for the input!

U could change the bulbs so not to worry about the heat many new bulbs are cool to touch!!

If there is an attic space the best thing I have found is to buy a styrofoam plant protector for each one. go into the attic move the insulation away from the can place the flower prtector center of the can and then move the insulation back to hold it in place.

Sounds like you have a bigger issue than air tight cans From my gander u have living space above the lights. You need to stop the draft at the edge of the house not the light otherwise floor and ceiling will be cold also.

Nope, no living space above the cans. Just roof joists and a roof.

I checked the cans tonight and they are rated IC.

Knowing that, I guess I’m leaning towards using some tape, caulk and compact fluorescent lights.

Jason, does the frost melt away from these same area on your shingles on top of the roof?

sounds to me you have a lack of insulation around and above these cans….the best way is a foam box as mentioned above along with fiberglass bats or the best is blown insulation.

I have a guy in Grand Rapids that can take a photo with some hi-tec equipment and show all your areas of heat loss in a home…pretty scary to see sometimes

good luck with the fix

It sure does Bob. Perfect circles of frost and snow melt right over the cans.

Outside of cutting a hole in the side of the house, there is no access to the area above the ceiling. That’s why I’m trying to address the problem from the inside.

Is there enough room to put the spray foam. The can spray stuff. If you have the insulation safe cans. I am not sure if it would work but I know that stuff can fill the gaps and if you are useing the cool running light bulbs.

Maybe its worth a shot spray alittle in the gaps and if it fills it to much you can always cut the excess off. then put your trim back up and no more cold are rushing in.

It was just an idea i had not sure if it is a good one or not!

good luck

Could get above the lights by carefully removing the roof vents and blowing insulation from above over the lights?

Shouldn’t you be on the water??

Have you considered making an access hole, covering the cans properly and then properly insulating. May cost more, but in the long run you’ll save on your heating bill.

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Could get above the lights by carefully removing the roof vents and blowing insulation from above over the lights?

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No vents in the roof.

The area is ventilated by a small vent on the side of the house….the vent is the size of a dryer vent, if that makes any sense. It is at one end of the addition, and the 6 cans run its entire length (60′?). The insulation company we had out said it would be possible to blow insulation in that one end, but getting it all the way down would be next to impossible.

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Shouldn’t you be on the water??

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No doubt. Electrical problem with the boat this morning. It’s headed to the dealer to troubleshoot an issue that I spent the morning trying to find.

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Have you considered making an access hole, covering the cans properly and then properly insulating. May cost more, but in the long run you’ll save on your heating bill.

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I agree….yet that idea has been rejected by the war, scheduling, and finance committee.

Call Stickboy, he is probably out plowing white money, but he can surprise you with his answers

But seriosly he may have a solution

Your best solution without adding any insulation will be to caulk the rim of each can. If you are going to repaint the ceiling, you could use Kilz as a primer to help stop vapor escaping. When you shingle next, then you could add insulation. Good luck.

Reminds of the first house I had, had recessed lights in the kitchen, after a while they would shut off for a while then back on, found out after doing some research the had put non IC rated lights in and insulated over them, they would get hot then the thermal switch would shut them off. Like they where in a vaulted ceiling with no access, I ended up reaching upi thru the lights and pushing the insulation aside.

When it first happened kind of reminded me a disco hall with the lights flashing on and off

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Could get above the lights by carefully removing the roof vents and blowing insulation from above over the lights?

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No vents in the roof.

The area is ventilated by a small vent on the side of the house….the vent is the size of a dryer vent, if that makes any sense. It is at one end of the addition, and the 6 cans run its entire length (60′?). The insulation company we had out said it would be possible to blow insulation in that one end, but getting it all the way down would be next to impossible.

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Jason, you should maybe call someone like Stickboy and look into this problem and a possible problem with lack of proper ventilation?? depending on the other dim’s….x 60′ I would believe you would need more ventilation than a small dryer vent?? each 150 sq.ft of space in the area requires 1 sq.ft of vent 1/150 ratio. you need more!! call someone on both issues!

Another option since you seem concerned about insulation and such, maybe you should look at getting a heating/energy audit done, money well spent, I think they only cost around the $100 mark depending on you situation, it may have a pretty quick payback, not sure what you got for electricity out there in Eau claire, but I know Xcel energy helps their customers find someone who can do this, Even if you weren’t a customer, I would think they could still help you out.