Any recommendations? I’ve heard about the Willis knot, but cannot find any illustrations?
Thanks,
Jim
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IDO » Forums » Fishing Forums » General Discussion Forum » Which Knot for Connecting Mono to Leadcore?
Any recommendations? I’ve heard about the Willis knot, but cannot find any illustrations?
Thanks,
Jim
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Pro Jason Tomich showed me a method that really works well. I’ll see if I can explain it:
First, pull back the sheath on the leadcore, and take out about 6″ of lead. Straighten the sheath back out.
Then, in the part with no lead, tie a square knot up around the area where the lead starts again.
Cut your mono with clippers so there’s no sharp edge on the end of the mono. The reason for this is so it’ll thread up INTO the sheath easier. You thread the mono into the sheath, up until it hits the knot, which is near where the lead starts.
Now the tricky part: Keep the mono where it is, and move the knot down near the end of the sheath. The end result will be one tiny knot, and you’ll have 4-5″ of mono up into the sheath. Doesn’t look like it’ll hold, but man, it works great! I am currently using 18# leadcore, so that dictates that I use something like 10# or 12# mono. It still takes quite a bit to break your line off. I know this ’cause I’ve been losing some cranks lately!
Send me an email if you have any questions. I’ve been using it since the last part of August when Tomich showed me, and it works.
This is the best I can find for the Willis knot –
I do not use lead core but for line to line I like the Albright. This is a cool site for knots.
Hope this helps some.
Bret
Uniknot or Blood works very well and are easy to tye. Check out the Uniknot its different variations and strength makes it one of the most versatile best all around knots in the industry.
Brian spelled it out perfect. I do the same on 20lb+ salmon and have never had a breakage (knock on wood).
I also agree with Brian. I have been using this knot for years with out a break off. It works like the old Chinese finger trap works.
Yup, thats what I use, if I can’t get that knot to go, a blood knot is #2.
Jami
Thanks for all the replies guys…I really appreciate it!
One question regarding the method Brian described. How does the knot in the sheath slip over the mono without pushing it out?
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once you have the mono in the sheath, you slowly work/walk that knot down the sheath line while keeping pressure on the mono to keep it in the sheath.
While you are working the knot down the sheath, you are incorporating the mono in the sheath.. When you’ve worked the knot to the end of the core sheath, tighten the knot.
Make any sense?
Jami
Quote:
I use a swivel also. I believe they are much more reliable.
That’s what I thought too, when I saw it. I told Jason, man, no way that’s holding. But the more I’ve used it, and when I’ve caught trees and snags, that knot does NOT let anything come loose. I’ve lost a few cranks, and the mono is still stuck in the sheath.
I use a barrel swivel for a short leader. I use this “Parsons & Kavajecz” knot for segmenting or long leaders like 50 footers. Have also heard it called a nail knot. This pic is off thenextbite.com. No other way to describe it. Works wonderfully and is easy to tie. They have a 3 part article on LC trolling that is a must read IMO.
By the way, that knot where you try to insert the mono into the leadcore sheath is impossible to tie in the boat! At least it is for me.
-J.
Thanks for the replies guys. Heading over to Milwaukee to chase salmonoids later this week and will play around with some of the options described above.
By the way, the first knot that Brian described appears to be the Willis knot. The only difference being that he uses a square knot verses and overhand knot.
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