River Anchor? Please help

What size/type of anchor(s) should I buy for anchoring a 17ft’ jon boat in the tailwaters of the Mississippi? Are richter anchors the way to go? Thanks in advance for the help.

I almost bought a richtor anchor, but they seem to do too good of a job of grabing hold of stuff, atleast on the river, from what I seen from other people’s experince. I know I need a to get something myself that works for my boat. I’m between the “navy” anchors and waterspikes.

It really depends. How deep, how much current? Rictors are great anchors and hold most anywhere for most boats. Waterspikes are excellent, but tend to get swept before hitting bottom in heavy current. The old 3 claw river anchors can be great if there is anything for the anchor to catch, and the user lets out enough rope. Navy achors can also be excellent once to get to the 20# class.

Much depends on the current and bottom structure. If the current isnt bad, I prefer the waterspikes because they are lighter and hold well most everywhere. If its snaggy with lots of current, I like my old river anchors because they grab well, and dont cost a fortune to lose in a snag. Heavy Navy anchors usally stick like glue.. but they are back wreckers. Rictors are very good all around anchors.. but put some good rope on them, and a length of chain to help fend off abbrasions on the rope at the anchor.. not cheap to replace!

Waterspike! A biggun!

If you can find some railroad rail. blow hole in the middle with a cutting torch, 20 inches weigh about 40 pounds one off the back and one off the front and you can achor up cross current anywhere. ps if you lose one no big deal. my 2 penny’s DK

17 ft jon…. 15 lb navy should do a fine job.

-J.

I’m with Jason on this one. Waterspike all the way!! The biggest problem is not using enough anchor rope length when setting an anchor and getting the anchor to lay down and grab. You cannot go wrong with a Waterspike, they are light, collapse for storage, mostly snag free being able to reverse the pull design to release the hold.

I bought the big water spike and 100 feet of braided anchor rope. I have two feet of chain between the rope and the anchor. It has held my 16 foot Lund in heavy current and heavy wind on Pool 2 just fine.

I thought about the Richter and then I thought about dropping that kind of money onto the bottom of a river. I think I’d use cinder blocks first

Rootski

It is up to you but the rail road rail is not a good idea DNR sees you with that you might be subject to a big $$$$ fine… I beleve It is illegal to have RR rail in your possession

2K’S

Rootski has the right set-up. Get plastic/rubber-coated anchor chain (to cut down on the noise) and 100 or more feet of a quality nylon rope. Have those attached to a water spike (a big one, get one that is rated for a boat longer than yours) and you’re not going anywhere in current, waves, wind, or all of the above.

Remember guys, its a jon boat. You could tie off a snagged jig on fireline and hold……

I have both the big and small water spikes and big/small Richtors. 15 and 30 lb navys too. If it was a bigger/heavier boat, then maybe a spike. But still not my first choice for the river.

15 lb navy will do fine and the price is right for that boat.

15 lb Navy will work fine and is the cheapest route. If this was anything other than a flat I’d go with a 28 lb Navy.

never heard about this. talked to many of wardens on the croix never had a problem ever. still makes a hellva achor. Wonder if its a felony?

Dang I love my Richters!

I run (2) 25 pounders in my boat, 1 bow & 1 stern. Run the bow anchor only 75% of the time in the river however.

I AM careful where I drop them though. I won’t drop my anchor into an area that shows significant amounts of timber on the bottom.

I figure even if I lose 1 per year to the river, that is still worth it. They just flat out work.

Waterspikes are good as well, I just think they take alot more rope to get them to grab properly, compared to a Richter.

I have been running a Richter for over 5 years now…It’s my main anchor for the river and I run a 17′ Lund

Rookie,

Save yourself some money for cranks and try this one.

http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_61006_200003001_200000000_200003000_200-3-1

It’s always held my 620 and 619. My waterspike basically looks like a pretzel after being forcefully removed from being stuck so many times. This lil’ fluke is really light and does not slip. Add 18 unches of chain and make sure you let out enough line to get a nice angle to your boat.

I would think the smaller version would hold you boat quite well. Kurt

I’m using a digger anchor with 100′ of rope on my 1800 pro v and really like it. Never a problem getting it unstuck from the bottom.

digger

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I’m using a digger anchor with 100′ of rope on my 1800 pro v and really like it. Never a problem getting it unstuck from the bottom.

digger

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I have this same anchor. Works AWESOME. Pull yourself up to the anchor… give it a tug and comes free. IMO, one of the best all-around anchors out there. Comes free of rocks/boulders in the river as well as lets loose any weeds when fishing the larger lakes.

This is what I am told take it for what it is worth… It is a belevable story… sum time ago in an land far far away…. no…

What I am told is It is illegal to possess RR Rail what was happening is people were steeling rail that was in use and selling it for scrap, (I think you can see the problem here “well sir it was here last night” now the train is in the ditch) It weights no less than 70# per yard so that was a good clean way to bring home a pay check for some people so the RR’s got together and went to legislation and past a law forbiding the possession of Rail without a permit. As far as a felony that would go an the $ value of what you are in possession of like any other case, I beleve it might be $1000.00 in WI

Now there is the history lession of the day, Google it if you are more intrested and let us know what you find

2K’S

If you know anyone that can weld, homemade anchor the only way to go! a piece of round steel about 20 lbs or so and some 1/4 inch flat steel weld it on and bend the tines up, if you get hung up on a snag simply cleat it off and power up, the tines bend and your free, return to shore and bend it back up under anything you can find. This is all anybody uses on the river up at Lockport Manitoba if you do not want to b e running to the store to replace expensive anchors, believe me, I’ve learned my lesson

This one sounds pretty simple and cost effective as long as space is not a issue. How about I make you one. Patent it, have Brian K, and Jason H sell it, Become a millionaire and fish everyday

2K’S

Thanks for all the help guys!

This is by far the best anchor I have ever used. River or lake it will hold as long as you have sufficient line. I would also suggest a nylon spring lead by the anchor. I have a 40lb one and it holds my 21ft bass boat in heavy current or 8′ waves. With a Jon you would not need anything that heavy, maybe 20lb. Just my 02 and have tried and lost many.
http://www.clackacraft.com/accessories/anchors.htm

Just imagine how happy your back would be after hitting 30 some wing dams in a day…….. Tried that once with a rather large river anchor. Don’t think I’ve stood up straight since.

used to run jaw crusher for a quarry we pulled up old lines that went to the quarry, priviate rail. I will use those bad boys as long as i can lift them