Brake pad and rotor service…vent

Kind of have to chuckle at this one I guess.

I knew I needed new pads and rotors in the rear of my 2004 Suburban. I called a local auto parts store and found out new rotors and pads for the rear were about $160.00. So, realizing I had a busy night ahead of me with other things around the house, I called a local “chain tire service store” to see what the cost would be for them to install their set on my truck and he quoted me $400+ dollars and I said “Thank you” and was about to hang up and the guy asked me if I was shopping around or something? I said I was simply seeing if the cost was worth my time or not to put them in myself and I realized that the cost was too much and I was planning to do them myself. He said “Well what would it take to get you in here for us to do it for you? A couple hundred bucks?” I said “yeah probably.” and then he comes back with a price of $200.00+ dollars. So, I asked if they were to sacrafice the quality of the parts? He said no.

So I showed up and there was no surprises at all and I was happy, yet frustrated at the same moment. Why the price was not that way right off the bat? Now I feel like I will need to barter every visit?

Anyone have this happen to them?

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“chain tire service store”

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Tires plus is the worst along with Firestone as far trying to Dupe the cutomer….IMO

I didn’t think the corporate chain stores had the ability to alter prices for products and services–a franchise maybe.

Glad things worked out well for you.

CR

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I didn’t think the corporate chain stores had the ability to alter prices for products and services–a franchise maybe.

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Thats what I thought.
MAkes me wonder how often this happens…and I am sure this has bee n this way for many many years as well.

Could it be one of those “side jobs” done on company time and with their parts?

I’ve been very happy with our local Tires Plus and Midas. Both have stood behind their service guarantees.
I have a 91 Chevy 2500. Midas has put in the 5th muffler (First one paid for, 4 replacements over 12 years) no charge. Tires Plus has done numerous tire rotations, alignment checks and brake pad replacement at no charge under the original guarantee.
Both shops have a “Meet or Beat” best price guarantee on products. So I think even the franchise shops have a little wiggle room in their pricing.

-J.

I’m pretty sure this sort of thing happens way too-often. I recently purchased a used S-10 pick-up that needed a new rear brake line, master cylinder and front brake pads. I did shop around at the chain places. The lowest quote I received was just over $350. I’ve replaced rotors and pad in my driveway but since this needed the master cylinder and rear brake line I figured I take it somewhere with a hoist as a hoist is needed to get at the rear brake line.
On a tip from a friend I took the truck to a local mechanic/body shop man who not only got all the parts and provided the labor but he only charged me $175 for the entire job. Not bad considering the master cylinder alone cost over $90. Add in the cost of the brake line, front pads and fluid probably came close to what the guy charged me. I am very satisfied with the work he did so much that I am going to give the guy the majority of my mechanic work. The best part is his business is located less than a mile from my office and I have to walk along the flood wall to get there.

Anyone needing work done on your vehicle in the DBQ area just send me a PM and I’ll send you in the right direction.

I do a lot of free brake jobs for the family, I can’t bear people paying those crazy prices, Start at $400 on go up from there. $200 isn’t bad at all for what you had done, if time was a factor, I wouldn’t feel bad at all paying that.

Overall I think it’s a scare tactic, because they can, “It’s your brakes! you should have a professional do them” Yeah a whole lot of rocket science involved in a normal brake job…

And you know anytime you take your brakes in, the line comes, Oh yeah you’re going to need new rotors…..

Long ago I was broke just out of high school, my parent’s offered to pay to get my brakes done, I decided after seeing how much they wanted, that I would figure out how to do them myself, even though it wouldn’t have cost me anything. Been doing all my brakes ever since. I can whip the brakes out on my truck in under a half hour taking my time.

Not that I am a fan of local tire shops, but its like this. If they are busy, the brakes are $400. If the shop is a ghost town, then they can discount. Kind of like if a guide charges $275 for 4 hours, then actually takes you fishing for $200, because they had a slow period, do you feel you were being overcharged originally ? More than likely, he did not have another client waiting on the dock. Anything can be challenged or requested for a discounted price. Some people ask, some do not. My shop is so busy right now, I do not have to discount anything. When it is slow, then the specials go on. It goes in cycles really. I will say a $200 swing is quite big on a brake job though…

big g

I bid construction work the same way. If we are really busy, and don’t need work, I will bid it to make money. If I need something to keep the guys busy, I am not going to make much profit. Just keeping things going I guess.

I’ve done my own brakes for quite a few years, and one of my brother in laws owned his own parts business, so I got all my parts for cost. I could get NEW rotors for less than half the price what some chain stores wanted for turning my old ones.
He sold his store, so there GOES my discount..
Jack..

Steve, I ‘barter’ a lot with these places. Service, tires, whatever. Did it once with my wife along. Got a ‘deal’ and on the way home she said she ‘felt’ embarrased. Then a canary diamond broch pin shows up for her. I said, “I can, because I barter’. You ought to see her at a garage sale! 1/2 the time their just happy if she carrys it away so they don’t have to.

You put 200$ back in your pocket…that’s awesome-

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Could it be one of those “side jobs” done on company time and with their parts?

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You know thats what it was. But he got his brakes done for $200 instead of $400, thats a bargain.

I need a couple…4 tires for my Trailblazer…Steve…shoot me a pm with the phone number…

Maybe I can get them to pay me to get new tires??

Get a set for my Suburban while your at it Brian. You can keep any extra profit.

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I need a couple…4 tires for my Trailblazer…Steve…shoot me a pm with the phone number…

Maybe I can get them to pay me to get new tires??

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Brian.. shop around and talk to the persons behind the counter.

I recently had to get tires for my Jeep.. went to tires plus because I saw an add for Dayton timberlines for $59 per tire in the size I needed, or the price was right?? I got there and they said my sice was $20 more per tire even with the add in my hand, and the free mounting was putting the tire on the car. The estimate was $530+ for less than ideal tires with no guarantee.

I went to Discount tire and got BFG all terrain(top of the line tires for $95 each tire($40+ less per tire than anywhere else), mounted, balanced, free lifetime rotation, lifetime road/damage warranty and I waked out the door spending less than $500 while getting every possible extra warranty… and tires 10X better than tires plus tried to shank me for(and treated me badly).

The new tires stick like glue, perform great, make trailering the boat awesome… and added 50 miles to a tank of gas in a 20 gallon tank. The tires will pay for themselves in a year.

They also had top of the line ATV tires(Goodyear Mudders) for $53 each(ultra cheap) that I will eventually be picking up befoe ice fishing.

I was at the discount tire in Bloomington near 84th and Lyndale.

Not to pick but, if tire sizes are equal, I am guessing your old tires were improperly inflated. I do not know any tire tread that will add 2.5 mpg ?

big g

Rolling resistance of tires can certainly change ones fuel mileage. More than that, usually, is the actual tire circumference. Even with the same “size” tire you get large variance and that is usually the reason you think your getting better or worse mileage, what actually happens is the odometer is actually getting false information.

Something I see people do a lot is complain that shop XYZ charges them too much for repairs that they, as the individual, can do themselves much cheaper. Don’t rip the business because of this but rather understand why that is. As a business they have more to pay for than the cost of the part. Wages, taxes, insurances, lights, heat, A/C, coffee, toilet paper, the list goes on and on. The reason they have to make a profit is simple, so they are in business to stand behind what they sell and to repair what most people cannot at home. Brakes are certainly an easy thing to replace. To do it right takes more than 30 minutes by the way. By doing it right your machining rotors, cleaning and lubing caliper slides, and inspecting the hoses and lines. Not doing so as the owner of the vehicle means nothing. Not doing so as a business means a lawsuit (yes people will sue for any reason) should they charge to fix your brakes and then over look a cracked brake line that later breaks and causes an accident. Just food for thought guys.

I stand by my post. Tread “resistance” will not improve mileage by 2.5 mpg. If this is a truck, that is like at worse a 10% increase in mpg, I don’t know many trucks that do 25 mpg either. If that was achieveable, that tire & tread pattern would be the only one going on any truck, straight from the factory.

I agree with the 2nd part of your post. I can do heart surgery on myself alot cheaper than some heart doctor. Am I getting the same thing… probably not.

big g

Big g..

The difference in milage came from a difference in tire pressure. The previous tires were 30psi max, the new ones are 50psi… Slightly rougher ride when empty, but it rides like glass with the boat connected, or a few passengers. The 50psi tires also give me the ability to run underinflated at higher pressure(30psi) for a larger footprint(traction) without dropping down to unsafe pressure for operation(that make any sense?).

It takes less resistence to roll a bowling ball under load(doesnt compress) than it does a water balloon. The stiffer tires do also perform better when under load.

In the past I had a reverse effect when I switched to D rated tires(50psi) from E rated tires(90psi) on a suburban.. I lost a few miles to the gallon bt gained a better ride and traction from a more agressive tire(E’s arent for offroad).

Tire pressure makes a huge difference on fuel consumption.

Didnt mean to hijack te thread!