rebuilding Lund fishing boat—questions….

  • jonzimmy
    Rochester, MN
    Posts: 47
    May 4, 2007 at 5:27 am #1254669

    Renovating a 16 Lund fishing boat, have a couple quick questions:

    1/4 or 1/2 inch plywood?

    Treated vs non-treated plywood?

    Any suggestions on who could take out a dent and re-paint in the rochester, MN area?

    thanks!!!

    troutsrus
    Lytton Iowa
    Posts: 268
    May 4, 2007 at 10:20 am #567737

    I put a new floor in my Tyee and it was originally 5/8. You should use treated , but dont have to.

    trumar
    Rochester, Mn
    Posts: 5967
    May 4, 2007 at 11:21 am #567746

    Quote:

    Renovating a 16 Lund fishing boat, have a couple quick questions:

    1/4 or 1/2 inch plywood?

    Treated vs non-treated plywood?

    Any suggestions on who could take out a dent and re-paint in the rochester, MN area?

    thanks!!!

    Progressive Truck on Bandel rd..5/8 treated and let it dry a bit first, flat on the floor

    farmboy1
    Mantorville, MN
    Posts: 3668
    May 4, 2007 at 12:53 pm #567781

    Quote:

    1/2″ minimum.

    treated.

    The new treated lumber requires the use of different screws. Make sure you pick up the right stuff, but I would go stainless in this situation.

    And I think 1/2″ is a little light. I would go 3/4 or 5/8″. Take a sheet of 1/2 and span it between a couple 2×4 at the same distance as your boat, and verify how much flex there is.

    Good luck, it is a big job

    larry_haugh
    MN
    Posts: 1767
    May 4, 2007 at 1:02 pm #567791

    You should consider using Marine plywood. Its different than treated. Treated lasts but not as long. (Speaking from exp)
    I just did all my decking and was able to get 10X4 sheets special ordered through Lowe’s in shakopee.
    timing and prices were very reasonable.
    Marine plywood is not common up here.. Though I heard Menard’s might have started carrying it.
    Good luck

    dank
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts: 1123
    May 4, 2007 at 1:22 pm #567807

    We just re-did our flooring on our lund and used treated 5/8′. my recommendation would be to measure twice, cut once. Make sure any screws that you are putting in are stainless or aluminum too. Good luck and posts some pictures when you can.

    david_scott
    Twin Cities
    Posts: 2946
    May 4, 2007 at 1:32 pm #567813

    DO NOT USE TREATED! It WILL eat up the aluminum!!

    You can use Marine grade ply.. I recommend 3/4″ if you want it to last, No less than 1/2″.

    Exterior grade plywood I prefer to use. Treat the wood with a few coats of good water sealer, and completely laminate the bottom side with fiberglass and resin… this will keep the wood from rotting on the underside where ventilation is at a minimum, and moisture tends to build up.

    If your carpeting the decks, use good exterior, or marine grade adhesive(glue) in generous quantities, it is very water resistant and will help repel the water from soaking in to your flooring.

    Its a lot of work, but it will last.

    puddlepounder
    Cove Bay Mille Lacs lake MN
    Posts: 1814
    May 4, 2007 at 1:43 pm #567817

    treated will last, but do you want to smell that nasty treated plywood for the next 10 years. also, check to see if the chemicals in the treated plywood will react with the aluminum. imagine this, 85degs, fish are committing suicide and you need to take a break and have a few beers and take a dip. you climb back in the boat and what are you smelling??? that nasty treated plywood. every time that floor gets wet, you will be smelling that nasty treated plywood. regular exterior plywood will be the cheapest route, and marine plywood, is the do it right the first time and be done with it choice. don’t go cheep you will be sorry 5 years down the road…………..tom fellegy

    amfyoyo1
    Iowa
    Posts: 156
    May 4, 2007 at 3:01 pm #567847

    I used treated and it lasted 2 months longer than my marriage. 15 years.

    hoistafish1
    Long Prairie,MN
    Posts: 402
    May 4, 2007 at 3:42 pm #567863

    i redid my lund with 3/4″ treated 3 yrs ago, but instead of carpeting, I rhino lined the floor, same stuff they use in truck beds. I’m very happy with the way it turned out and it looks and feels the same as the day I installed. No smell that I have ever noticed!

    rvrat
    st cloud,mn
    Posts: 1571
    May 4, 2007 at 4:24 pm #567895

    Im no expert but what ive heard is two years ago or so they changed the chemical in treatd wood..That is why you need triple coated zinc or stainless screws when building decks, docks etc with it. It will eat through regular screws, so I would make sure before the plywood had direct contact with you boat…you know it wont affect it…good luck what ever you do

    ilbfishn
    Winona, MN
    Posts: 70
    May 4, 2007 at 4:34 pm #567900

    Arsenic was banned in treated wood in 2004. With higher copper content it is advised NOT to use around aluminum.

    warrenmn
    Minnesota
    Posts: 687
    May 4, 2007 at 8:56 pm #568021

    I’m not positive but I think marine grade refers only to the voids that can be in the ply of the wood.

    http://www.glen-l.com/wood-plywood/marine-plywood.html

    I also would think twice about treated as the chemicals I think are a type of salt. When I redid the floor in my 1960 Lund I used marine grade then thought to myself, why? You should recheck the thickness, 1/4 is no where thick enough and its likely 1/2 or 5/8.

    WarrenMN

    Tom P.
    Whitehall Wi.
    Posts: 3524
    May 4, 2007 at 11:00 pm #568079

    Brude Willis……My motto son is be prepared.

    jonzimmy
    Rochester, MN
    Posts: 47
    May 5, 2007 at 2:10 am #568111

    Thanks everyone! I ended up tracking down some marine grade plywood from Pine Island Lumber yard—pine island, MN. Also, was reffered to Kingsley Auto Body (SE Rochester) for taking the dent out–bringing the boat there next week. Will post pics when this is all said and done. Any more tips—keep them coming!

    gary_wellman
    South Metro
    Posts: 6057
    May 5, 2007 at 2:36 am #568114

    Glue the carpet down.

    Also, if you want to do it right, put a little fiberglass resin in the screw holes. This will keep the holes from any rotting and also helps secure the screws from backing out or coming loose.

    lastly,
    measure 3 times……..cut once!

    Vol02
    Andover, IL
    Posts: 28
    May 7, 2007 at 3:59 pm #568636

    Just thought I would add some info I found since I was not sure of the difference in Treated or Marine grade.

    Besides this Marine grade is made with 100% waterproof glue.

    PRESERVATIVE TREATED PLYWOOD

    These may be used for ground contact or other applications subject to decay or insect predation when pressure-preservative-treated to relevant standards, such as those of the American Wood Preservers Association (AWPA). V600 panels meet Exposure 1 glue bond classification. V611 panels meet the Exterior classification.

    MARINER PLYWOOD

    Another APA Custom Product, V-281, is Mariner Plywood. Mariner Plywood is a high-grade, high-performance, hybrid Exterior grade plywood panel manufactured in accordance with an APA developed Custom Product Specification. Mariner Plywood may be manufactured with Douglas-fir, western larch or Group 1 southern pine.

    Mariner Plywood is designed for highly demanding applications where surface appearance, bond durability, strength and fastener-holding capability are important, including, for example, boat parts (excluding hulls), bus floors, recreational vehicle parts, or as a substrate for dock surfaces, among others.

    As with Marine grade and other PS 1 plywood grades, Mariner Plywood is not decay resistant, but can be preservative-treated as a secondary process.

    P.S.
    As stated above never use Aluminum fastners or some galvanised with the new treated woods. The copper content is alot higher than the old stuff.

    Use Hot Dipped Galvanised or Sainless Steel fastners.

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