i have a older johnson moter and wish to repaint thr cowling which is fiber glass.could anyone help me on how to prep this for painting and what i need for a primer and paint seeing that it’s fiberglass?
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painting moter
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February 18, 2006 at 7:25 pm #421848
Smokey, the prep is the most important when painting, if its not preped right the paint might start peeling. Are you going to use paint thats rated for the motor. If you get in touch with Evinrude they probably have the primer and paint for that motor. First thing you want to do is remove any chrome or aything that might get scratched. Then wipe the cover down with a good thinner, denatured alcohol or laqure thinner is a good cleaner. The reason you want to wipe it down is to get rid of any motor oil residue or anythinmg the primer and paint won’t stick too to keep it from peeling. Then sand with 200 grit by hand or a palm sander. If there is any deeper gouges or scratches you can use body filler for them. Sand smooth just like you would if you were doing body work on a car. Evinrude might have a special primer for thier marine paint, check with them to see if they do. Primer and the paint being used has to be compatable. If theres no special primer then you can use a grey or red oxide primer with a light sanding with 200 grit between coats of primer depending on the buildup of primer you want to have to make a smooth finish for the paint. Next is mix the paint and any hardener if required to the recomendations that is on the paint can or that your dealer says is sufficient. When thinning the paint with reccomended thinner it sprays better out of the sprayer because it atomizes better so you get a nice smooth coat that lays flat and even and glosses right. The best way to paint the cover is with two coats of semi thin paint. Its better to put two thin coats on than one thick one. After the first coat is applied wait the recommended time befor the second coat. If you can, take a tack cloth over each coat of primer and paint with a wiping down of the required thinner for the paint to remove any tack and dust. Spray the second coat on and then let it dry and take the propper time after it feels dry to let it harden properly, It takes time for the paint to properly harden, that should do it for you.
February 19, 2006 at 12:29 am #421886mossy dan.. you can come paint my van anytime!
If you want a superior paint job, follow his steps.
As he said, be sure to clean the surface before applying anything. If it has chips, scratches or dings its easy to fill them with body filler(bondo) or glazing compound if they are tiny scratches. I dont think your going to have much problem with any oil based enamel paint sticking as long as the surface is clean, and scuffed. A coat or 2 of clear gloss at the end would really protect the finished product.
February 19, 2006 at 2:02 am #421905Ya Dave, clear coating at the end will protect the paint too. A good clear coat of a good brand is a good protective measure and it helps the paint from oxadizing and fading. If you use a clear coat and this applies to paint too put it on until it looks wet and not much more, paints and clear coats are made to go on at this thickness and not too much more or it causes chipping plus its easier to get runs. Heres a trick that you can do if you want it glossy on the clear coat and even the paint without the clear coat. After it starts to harden and to the point where you would leave a finger print but not a deep one, spray a semi fine mist of laquere thinner over the clear coat and it remelts the clear coat and makes it real glossy. This also works real well with just straight oil based paints too with a laquere mist spray wash at the end. If you ever decide to repaint your center cowling and lower unit this works there too and makes it really shine, i’ve done it and it makes it look like its new. Don’t ever wash the primer though because it then becomes too smooth and the paint dosen’t hold and stick like it should.
February 19, 2006 at 2:43 pm #421969I did my old ’76 Evinrude last year. I picked up a new rubber gasket from the local dealer and some stickers on ebay. I just used canned spray paint from Menards an it looks great. I never realized how much work it was with the Bondo, sanding, primer, resanding, primer, resanding, taping for stripes, then spraying multiple paint coats and final clear coating. I swore off DIY body work after that small project! There are so many curved parts on a old hood!
Give your self a month to get it all doneFerny
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