outboard problems

I was out on the mississippi Saturday first time this year. I have a 1993 marainer 60 hp. I put in At Everts I let the motor run for about 15 min before moving. I thought I outa let her warm up a little bit. So then I backed out and started to the dam so far so good. Then I gave her the berrys and I thought nothing to this winter river fishing. Then with out warning boom shut down. Started right back up so I started going again. But not as fast. And everything was ok until I bumped up alittle more the it shut down again. So I decided to fish were I was and let wind blow me around and the current. I was having fun just being there but, wondering if it was just to cold for my motor. And if so what do you guys do to set up your boat for winter river fishing. Thanks any and all input will be read.

YOUR COMPETION GOT STRONGER TODAY, DID YOU

No warning buzzer or anything, it would just shut itself down?

Just Starting…

I really hope that I’m wrong…but what you have discribed is a light seize up of your piston/rings.

Do you know if the water was coming out of the powerhead?

It “SOUNDS LIKE” it was staying cool enough at idle, but not getting enough water to keep the block cool when applying power. The rings “stuck” to the cylinder walls….then after shutting down release…which is why it started again…but because of the scored walls/rings, wouldn’t give you a top end (or even a good middle range) because of the blow by.

If it is what I’m thinking, it’s going to cost you new rings at the very least and piston/rings/boring at the worse.

It’s not the end of the world as far as cost/parts… but you know boat motors…nothings cheap!

Good point Ritt! You should have heard some type of overhead buzzer(?)

A cheap compression test will tell the tail for you.

I would also recommend a compression check to rule out any scoring or ring damage. I would also recommend synthetic oil to anyone running outboards this time of year. It is not affected by the temperature. Is it oil injected? That may be the problem. Oil gets stiff, and some injection systems cannot handle the oil when it thickens.
Tuck

CHECK THE FUEL FILTER AND YOUR GAS LINE BUBBLE. MOTOR IS OLD ENOUGH WHERE YOUR ENTIRE FUEL LINE CONECTIONS & BUBBLE. COULD BE SUCKING AIR.

GUNDY

there were no buzzer sounds

You did not say how it ran on the way back. Could be any of the things mentioned. The stater comes to my mind. This happeded to me only in the summer, motor would run a low RPM and accelerate for awhile then kill out. Would restart after a couple of minutes and then do the same thing. Could also be old gas or water in gas. If it would be the rings, you are risking more serious damage if you try to run it anymore, get it checked out.

was water comming out of power head? do you mean the weep hole that the water pump is pushing water out of. if so yes it is pushing water out of it. And quit strongly. Just replaced impeller in august. used several times after that so it is installed right. And Tuck it is oil injected. So it is possible that I ran the motor with out oil because it was to thick. Tonight I will do a compression test. Any Idea what my compression should be 90-145psi I’m guessing.
The only thing I dont under stand is would it run real ruff after restart

Another system to check is the fuel filter.

If your fuel filter is getting “corroded”, it can accept enough fuel to run at idle and even mid-range. However, when you open her up, your will starve your motor for gas. If the filter is getting “plugged up”, it can allow some gas to pass through, but not full usage. That is why, when you hit the key again, she fires right off.

JS…if in fact your motor DOES have a over heat alarm, I’m thinking that it maybe more electical than an over head situation.
However a compression check is cheap and would rule over heating and a few other things out.

More on Fuel…check the entire fuel line right to the tank. I had a gas can that had a small air leak in the “guage seal” and it acted exactly as you described.

Thanks Gary I will replace my filter. One thing I should mention I have only owned this boat for a year and I did buy it from a dealership used of course. So I sure hope I am not finding out the hard way by not having some one profisionally winterise it. such as the dealership i bought it from. I figured they check all these things before they sell them right? How often should a person replace a filter.

I have to pipe up that I don’t think you have a mechanical or electrical problem here.

If a motor runs fine at idle, but dies once you give her the juice………then she ain’t getting the juice (gas).

Clogged fuel filter screen will starve a motor for gas.
Pin hole in a gas line will starve gas.
Loose hose clamp
Poor connection from the gas tank to the line or from the line connector to the motor.

The easiest way to check this is pull your plugs. If they are “bone dry” you are starving for fuel.

As for trouble shooting this. Start with the beginning (at the motor). Check your filter, check your hose connection to the motor and start working your way to the tank.

Even a kinked or pinched fuel line could be the simple fix!!! It is amazing at times what can happen to a boat over the winter. However 90% of the time it is the filter that gets corroded with “old gas”.

I would suspect fuel system, especially if no alarms went off. Boat fuel is subject to moisture same as a car.

Will the gas hose bulb pump up to pressure and hold there? I agree with the others who have responded. It sounds more like a fuel system problem with the info given so far.
Fuel line pressure, fuel filter, bad gas, old plugs. If you go through the process of elimination, start with the basics.

Thats a good point tuck, I took the new rig out the other day for a spin, no oil buzzer was blarring, so back on the trailer she went. A phone call later, removed the old oil, dumped in amsoil and back out the next day. No problems.