Bow mounting on an aluminum boat

  • Chris
    Rochester, MN
    Posts: 1396
    #1245735

    I need some ideas on how to put a Minn Kota bow-mount trolling motor on an open bow aluminum boat. I have been looking for a conversion kit to buy but can’t find one. Maybe I am looking in the wrong place. I haven’t looked at the project yet since the boat is stored elsewhere but I want to be able to mount it without drilling any holes in the boat rail so a clamp system is needed I guess. If anyone has any ideas let me know please.
    Thanks, Chris

    amwatson
    Holmen,WI
    Posts: 5130
    #344285

    That may be tough without drilling any holes I am not so sure I would trust a clamp system after my bolted on Minnkota took a swim last year

    chris-tuckner
    Hastings/Isle MN
    Posts: 12318
    #344286

    I used to take 3/4″ plywood to cover the V. And I would drill and screw it into the aluminum.
    Tuck

    kooty
    Keymaster
    1 hour 15 mins to the Pond
    Posts: 18101
    #344288

    Get us a picture of the bow and I bet you’ll get lots of suggestions. Some of these guys actually know what they are talking about. I stress some…

    robstenger
    Northern Twin Cities, MN
    Posts: 11374
    #344293

    I did what Tuck suggested on our 14’Lund. Works great. Even put marine carpeting on it. Sometimes I will even stand up there when we are in shallow bays in Canada casting for pike. See a ton from that high.

    Chris
    Rochester, MN
    Posts: 1396
    #344316

    Ok, I guess I don’t want anything falling in so I’ll use the drill. I ran wires through the rail for nav. lights which was a royal pain in the rear and don’t want to have to attempt it again. I also didn’t want to put holes in it but what the heck Thanks for the input!

    Chris

    pyake
    Posts: 167
    #344319

    I agree with others in that I would attach permenantly vs clamp on mounting. Bow mounts are heavy and apply a lot of force to your boat. You want a mount that is very solid. You don’t want the trolling motor to fall off of the boat while trailering on a bump road.

    I would trace out the outline of your bow on a piece of cardboard. Cut the cardboard outline out longer than you think you want the mounting base, then place your trolling motor on top to see how long it needs to be to fasten the trolling motor and cut the final lenght of the cardboard. Take that cardboard back to your boat and make sure that you have enough room to stand and cast behind the new platform. Remember, your foot pedal will require a little room to move on the casting deck. Once you are happy with the layout, trace the pattern on some treated plywood and cut to the same shape. If you have aluminum gunwales, you should be able to fasten the plywood to the top surface of the gunwale with sheet metal screws. If you use sheet metal screws, I would use blue permatex on the screws to keep them from vibrating loose. Most aluminum boats that do not have a triangle platform on the nose have a metal nose piece. You may have to figure out how to get the plywood to fit flush over this, or trim the point off so that it fits flush behind the nose piece.

    It may not look pretty, but it should be functional and solid. Somebody suggested carpet and that will definately add to the appearance. You could also build a little cubby below the platform for storing life jackets if you like.

    heitda
    Eau Claire, WI
    Posts: 272
    #344320

    My 16′ older boat had a steel or aluminum plate welded across the bow after it was purchased that makes sure the trolling motor doesn’t move and has a solid mount. No rust or rotting wood to deal with either.

    Chris
    Rochester, MN
    Posts: 1396
    #344324

    Very good description on your instructions Tmusky suggested the use of cardboard for a template as well so it must work pretty good. I would like to have the casting platform but cannot afford to upgrade my motor therefor I need to minimize the weight. The area will have to be just big enough for the trolling motor and maybe a little further back so I can move the battery from the back to the front and have it cover the battery. (I will mount the battery on top of the very front bench seat) The foot pedal cable should be long enough to reach the back of the boat so I can control it from there. Cosmetically it won’t look great but won’t be an eyesore either. Can’t wait ’til I can upgrade!

    Thanks Pete, Chris

    mrcrappie
    mn Dodge co.
    Posts: 1133
    #344401

    Chris, I have a couple pre cut front pices/with carpet. Get a template & get ahold of me. I can help ya out. Doug

    Chris
    Rochester, MN
    Posts: 1396
    #344473

    Thanks Doug thats a pretty sweet offer cus it will save alot of time and I’m lacking a few tools. I’m gonna try to get it done this week if I can find the time or it may have to wait ’til spring break Mar. 11-21 It’ll be great to have time to catch up on the honey-do list and maybe a bit of fishin. You up for it? Silly question

    mrcrappie
    mn Dodge co.
    Posts: 1133
    #344490

    Hey, No problem, I have 2 different sizes. I’m hoping one will fit. Just let me know where & when. Doug

    mark johnson
    Posts: 1
    #2040486

    Hello everyone,

    I have a 12′ sea nymph aluminum boat that I want to mount a minn kota trolling motor to and need some help. I am planning on having some aluminum plate cut to fit the bow of the boat and was thinking 3/8″. Do you think I can get away with 1/4″ plate? It will be cut to fit and welded to the boat. Any comments are appreciated -) The picture isnt my boat but it along the lines of what I want to do

    Attachments:
    1. Bowplate.png

    Hot Runr Guy
    West Chicago, IL
    Posts: 1933
    #2040491

    I’d consider using 1/8″ plate, with a piece of 5/8″-3/4″ plywood glued and thru-bolted underneath. 1/8″ plate would be easier to bend 90-degrees and wrap around the outside edge of the gunnel.

    HRG

    rvvrrat
    The Sand Prairie
    Posts: 1840
    #2040494

    Proof that info on the internet “lingers”…pulled up a 16 year old post! I looked at some of the responders and said hey, these guys are back? Then saw the post date.

    Jason
    Posts: 820
    #2040669

    Anything thicker than .090 thick aluminum is over kill in my mind. As long as you form some edges along the perimeter it will be plenty solid. Pm me if you get in a bind.

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