Wire connecter

  • Josh Runksmeier
    Pequot Lakes, MN
    Posts: 279
    #1357476

    I am rewiring a small boat trailer will the melt-on but-end connecter be necessary or can you get away with the regular ones and wrap with electrical tape? Just wondering if being completely waterproof is that important . Never done it before .
    Thanks
    Josh

    BBKK
    IA
    Posts: 4033
    #1399105

    Solder and heat shrink. That goes for anything that touches water!

    Ralph Wiggum
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts: 11764
    #1399112

    If you don’t solder and heat shrink them, I would use the melt on connectors. The regular ones will work, but they will fail much more prematurely.

    TheFamousGrouse
    St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 11832
    #1399124

    Spend the extra $3 on the waterproof heat shrink connectors. They look just like the crimp on butt splice connectors, but each end where the wire goes in is heat-shrinkable.

    Crimp as usual, then hit the ends with a heat gun.

    If you want the belt + suspenders approach, do the heat shrink crimps and then put a separate length of heat shrink tube over the whole splice. That’s bullet proof.

    See my comment in the other trailer wiring thread about using “bullet connectors” instead of crimp splice connectors. A great way to make future replacement of lights a quick/easy process without compromising reliability.

    Grouse

    mossydan
    Cedar Rapids, Iowa
    Posts: 7727
    #1399217

    I solder everything because it always works. I pre slide heat shrint tape over the wire(s) before the soldering. A sure fire way to make the best connection for the longest is buy some liquid tape and after soldering put a few coats over the soldered connection thats good and thick, then slide the heat shrink over that, the right size heat shrink tape and its about bullet proof for durability.

    onestout
    Hudson, WI
    Posts: 2698
    #1399226

    I use the melt on/heat shrink with the liquid sealer inside for everything, I don’t use the standard connectors anymore or even have any around. Those things are bullet proof and quick. I used them on many vehicles and they go through a lot more abuse with salt spray than a trailer will and have always held up.

    poomunk
    Galesville, Wisconsin
    Posts: 1509
    #1399231

    My soldering is questionable at best, just did my trailer wiring and did the same as grouse said. Heat shrink butt splice (filled them with dielectric grease) crimped, shrank and then put another piece of heat shrink over the connector about 2″ longer than the splice.

    Just dont forget to put the second heat shrink tube on before u splice.

    trumar
    Rochester, Mn
    Posts: 5967
    #1399238

    If you use the heat shrink connectors make sure you buy the good ones,they are adhesive-lined to create a water-resistant and corrosion resistant connection, making them ideal for marine applications.

    Harbor freight sells them >>> heat shrink connectors

    Josh Runksmeier
    Pequot Lakes, MN
    Posts: 279
    #1399302

    Thanks for the info. Looks like the heat shrink and grease are a must. It is a boat that don,t get used much but when I do I don,t want any problems.

    TheFamousGrouse
    St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 11832
    #1399356

    Quote:


    Thanks for the info. Looks like the heat shrink and grease are a must. It is a boat that don,t get used much but when I do I don,t want any problems.


    If you don’t want any problems, replace all lights on the trailer with LED lights. If you’re like me, you’ll baulk at the price when you buy them, but pat yourself on the back every time you use the trailer once they’re installed. They work so much better and are so much more robust than the old crappy bulb units, it simply cannot be believed.

    Grouse

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