As I had in a previous post, I’m using up the remaining spools I have of the old Shakespeare cajun braid. Been using power pro and 832 with favorable results. I found fire line and spider to fray and deteriorate much faster.
I keep all my brain sprayed with Blakemore Reel Magic. It has done wonders for extending the life and longevity of the lines.
Kevin23,
breaking at the jig and fraying there is a classic sign of knot slippage or if fishing in rocky bottom areas light braid is about the least abrasion resistant line you could use. Regular 6lb mono would hold up better.
we tried braids drift fishing for steelhead when it first came out and it did not last a day. Instant cutoffs in snags. Attach a mono or flouro leader. Improved clinch knots and braid do not work. The Braid is to slippery and will not hold at all. In light poundage’s slippage causes friction and breakage. Try the Palomar knot. If you try 832 or slick 8 or nanofil you can pull clinch knot out by hand. I have had great success using nanofil on my dropshot rod I am using it in the 14lb test with a 6 ft flouro leader and have not had any breakages of the nanofil. It is so slock I had to increase the number of wraps in my leader knot to get it not to slip.
Mwal
Oh its solid rock, broken concrete, old steel cables, hundreds of catfish lines.. getting snagged is unavoidable. Getting snagged is not the problem, breaking off is not the problem, breaking off 30+ feet up is the problem. There is no way to avoid getting snagged and breaking off there, so I don’t even try. Its not like I am breaking off every time I get snagged, with the braid its pretty easy to pop a jig out. With mono and the current you are done before you even feel the snag.
I should tie up a leader, but it doesn’t last any longer than braid. Once you hit one of those old 30# catfish lines its over no matter what you have.
I just like to try new things, the old saying “don’t fix what isn’t broken” never sits right with me… I’m always looking for something better.
Are you getting lots of Wind knots? Have you taken a q tip and run it thru your guides and across your roller bearing on your reel looking for cotton fibers that snag. That is sign of cracked or worn guide that may not be visible to the naked eye. Breaking 30 feet up consistently is odd. There has to be something in your equipment or wind knots etc causing it. Has this happened with only one batch of line or have you re spooled from different spools with the same results? I am curious. I have had issues with a certain rod and cracked guide and q-tip found the bad guide so I replaced it.
Mwal
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So what is nanofil? Braid, mono, fluorocarbon?
Mike….nanofil is another superline. It has a narrow diameter and is white in color. It has all of the attributes the other braids and super lines have. It does not work on casting equipment due to its super slick surface.
The smaller diameter nanofil is dandy for sunfish and crappies and the line up to about 8 pounds is really nice for jigging walleyes. Beyond 8 pounds, the heavier lines get stiff, no memory but simply stiff. And frustrating.
One down-side to nanofil is the lack of scuff resistance.
I have two crappie rods spooled with 3 pound nano that I use just for tossing real light jigs and I have two walleye rods spooled with 6 pound nano just for vertical jigging. These are my favorite two walleye rods with spinning reels when it comes to jigging.
Just looked on ebay and nanofil is pretty cheap. Thought that stuff was like $20 a spool? There are a couple auctions ending soon for $12-13.. for the 8 pound nanofil.
Yep, checked the guides and the reels. Its not the problem. Only happens with PP yellow. Did 2 spools of PP green when I first started with braid, probably 6 or so years ago and never had a problem. But it was so hard to see against the muddy water. I switched to yellow a couple years ago and loved it, so far it has only happened with PP yellow 10/2. I used some old stren 8# braid early last spring for blade baits and did not have this problem. I did not like that line because of how stiff it was, it was also very loud and left yellow dust all over my gear.
My every-day plastics rod is a team daiwa fuego with fuji silicon carbide guides, I don’t believe those could crack or get worn down from braid very easily.
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I keep all my brain sprayed with Blakemore Reel Magic. It has done wonders for extending the life and longevity
This explains a lot 
You don’t need to over analyze it kevin33 might have got some bad line I have some fire line that’s ten years old on my trolling rods and still holding strong. Although I still think it is operator error
And I’ve got a buddy that ran a spool of 10/2 pp yellow and it’s still on his rod after 5 years . Not one problem
I had no idea there were so many different lines on the market. We use braid for small diameter and a certain break strength. According to this many lines are way under rated and consistent quality is almost non existent.
http://www.paulusjustfishing.com/4linetesting.htm
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I keep all my brain sprayed with Blakemore Reel Magic. It has done wonders for extending the life and longevity
This explains a lot
Dang auto correct 
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Was a PP guy for years but use Sufix 832 for every braid application from Crappie to Musky in my Guiding…The Gortex
fibers really prevent the line from absorbing water this time of year…a plus!
Ditto here. I have 832 on all my rods at this point.
Regardless of having gore tex fibers in 832 the stuff will freeze solid as the north pole. In fact, that seems rather gimmicky to me. What the hell do the gore fibers really do anyways? Regardless, I have been out fishing with 2 buddies and when it dips below 32 degrees they put the 832 away but my nanofil stays out. I’d say it’s about the same as mono as far as freeze up. I’ve had the 10lb. on 2 rods for the last 2 years and have ripped a bunch of hogs out of P2 on them. Line is not stiff as others have said and I can outcast any other line with it. One downside is line fray. That being said I’m often lazy and don’t retie and haven’t lost a fish yet on it.
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