14′ boat floor

  • esoxrox
    Posts: 75
    February 16, 2014 at 4:53 pm #1356988

    Long story short I sold my pro v last year thinking id get a new one this year well….. That’s not happening I now am the proud owner of a 14′ alumacraft F4. I want to make the floor flat. I have already removed the two middle benches and plan on stiffening up the sidewalls. Any suggestions on what to use. I think wood would be too heavy for the 20hp motor. What else is there? Please help.

    gregory
    Red wing,mn
    Posts: 1626
    February 16, 2014 at 5:10 pm #1389138

    a guy could always skin it with aluminum.

    carphunter
    SE IOWA
    Posts: 68
    February 16, 2014 at 5:20 pm #1389139

    I used 250 density foam between the struts under 3/16 diamond plate aluminum. I shimmed the foam up flat with cedar shims and glued them in place under the foam with construction adhesive. Made cardboard templates till they fit 1/8 from the sides. Laid them on the aluminum and cut it. Laid it in place and screwed it down with stainless screws and cup washers. I caulked the edges with 100 percent silicone. I thought it turned out well. Took me about a day and had less than $450 in it. I had the boat for 5 years before I sold it. Good luck.

    Jeff Bennett
    Lake Puckaway Wi.
    Posts: 1180
    February 16, 2014 at 6:01 pm #1389145

    I did a flat floor in my old crestliner 16 footer with 5/8th plywood and it still went 20 miles per hour with an old 18 hp. It slowed down some but not too bad. I put the indoor-outdoor carpet in it to save weight alos.For the bracing up front for the side just used allum. flat stock and bent so it was on the floor bolted down and up on the sides to the top rail. To get the shpe of the v -bottom just make a card board template to lay down on your plywood. Depending on the width of your boat you might be able to use 1/2 inch plywood to save more weight. Hope this helps.

    dvocelka32
    Duluth, MN
    Posts: 40
    February 16, 2014 at 7:31 pm #1389161

    how about something like this?!!??!! I ripped treated 2×4’s to lessen the weight and made a floor with 1/2″ particle board. Even made a flat deck from the middle bench up to the front of the bow.

    Hope this helps! My 25hp Evinrude rips this thing!

    Dane


    Stickman12
    Posts: 17
    February 16, 2014 at 8:20 pm #1389169

    I’d steer clear of the ACQ treated plywood and lumber when its contacting aluminum. Overtime it will corrode. Two metals (copper from the pressure treatment and aluminum boat hull) shouldn’t be wet together. That’s why there are sacrificial anodes in different locations on your outboard. Marine grade plywood is a better choice. If you’re worried about it rotting treat it with CPES from Jamestown distributors. My 2 cents.

    bclii
    MN/AZ
    Posts: 478
    February 16, 2014 at 9:14 pm #1389176

    Quote:

    I’d steer clear of the ACQ treated plywood and lumber when its contacting aluminum. Overtime it will corrode. Two metals (copper from the pressure treatment and aluminum boat hull) shouldn’t be wet together. That’s why there are sacrificial anodes in different locations on your outboard. Marine grade plywood is a better choice. If you’re worried about it rotting treat it with CPES from Jamestown distributors. My 2 cents.

    Slo is right on the money here! Stay clear of green treated!

    crawdaddy
    St. Paul MN
    Posts: 1500
    February 17, 2014 at 12:07 am #1389186

    I have a flat floor in my 14′ alumacraft jonboat, and it was done with marine grade lumber. I think that is the best due to the fact that I haven’t seen any rot associated with moisture. The frame under the floor was done with aluminum which doesn’t add much weight.

    Steve Plantz
    SE MN
    Posts: 12240
    February 17, 2014 at 7:39 am #1389223

    Not sure where you are at but you should talk to Schoenmann Boat Works in Rochester, I had them do my floor in 2005 and it is still rock solid. I ordered my floor precut from Lund and had Schoenmann install it for me. They put a fiberglass wrap on the floor, this is something they do on all the new floors they install. If boat companies would do this in the first place we would never have the problem of floors rotting out in the first place. If you would rather do the work yourself I am sure that Mark Schoenmann would be willing to talk to you and tell you what you need to do to do it yourself. http://www.schoenmannboatworks.com

    I also agree with what others have said about plywood, DO NOT USE TREATED PLYWOOD! Go with Marine grade plywood.

    FishBlood&RiverMud
    Prescott
    Posts: 6687
    February 17, 2014 at 8:35 am #1389245

    I used all aluminum to support every piece of this rebuild.
    Here’s my 16′ Alumacraft Lunker.
    Not a 2×4 in there. Drops the weight considerably.
    All 3/4″ marine grade plywood.

    Holds up to 10, 10′ rods in the rod compartment
    Up to 5, 6’6″ exposed storage.
    More storage than probably any new boat 20′ or less.
    Older picture, but i’m running 4 batteries. 70# trolling motor. 40HP motor. 7 rod holders. Downrigger. 2nd seat, ETc Etc…

    esoxrox
    Posts: 75
    February 17, 2014 at 8:46 am #1389257

    Fish blood, that’s what I’m going for, any specifics? Where did you add aluminum and how did you do it?

Viewing 14 posts - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.