Trailer light help

  • Boogerbreath
    Bemidji, MN
    Posts: 432
    October 3, 2013 at 9:01 pm #1283726

    So on my last outing I noticed that my running lights did not work to my boat trailer. Blinkers did. So I hooked up my boat trailer to my other auto and everything was fine. So I narrowed it down to my truck and not the trailer. Fuse I thought. Checked all the fuses and none were burnt out. I am at the point where I will be spending money. Is this something that will most likely take a mechanic or is there another step that the average joe could do. My truck is a 2000 Ford Ranger. Thanks – Boogs

    belletaine
    Nevis, MN
    Posts: 5116
    October 3, 2013 at 9:03 pm #1198328

    Trailer lights-The sportsmans kryptonite…

    John Schultz
    Inactive
    Portage, WI
    Posts: 3309
    October 3, 2013 at 9:09 pm #1198330

    Did you test the plug receptacle on your truck to make sure you had juice? Did you also check the fuse typically found under the hood of the truck that is specific to trailer marker lights? Those would be the first two things I would check. If it wasn’t either of those, I would find an electrician or mechanic buddy with spare time and make him fix it.

    Boogerbreath
    Bemidji, MN
    Posts: 432
    October 3, 2013 at 9:22 pm #1198334

    I’m going to start replacing fuses – even if they look good.

    Mike W
    MN/Anoka/Ham lake
    Posts: 13298
    October 3, 2013 at 9:24 pm #1198336

    Yep. Start with the easy stuff.

    John Schultz
    Inactive
    Portage, WI
    Posts: 3309
    October 3, 2013 at 9:27 pm #1198337

    On a Ford F-150, there is a 10 amp fuse in the main fuse box that controls the running/marker lights for the trailer. Sometimes, when it is blown, you can’t tell by looking at it. Trust me on that one.

    Test the wires coming into the receptacle and see if you have power in the wires. Power in the wire but not in the plug and I would replace the receptacle.

    minnesota_tom
    Grand Meadow, MN
    Posts: 204
    October 3, 2013 at 9:27 pm #1198338

    This may not help you problem, but I was having similar problems with about every trailer I own when hooked to the ’03 Yukon I had. I drilled a small hole in my bumper, attached a short wire with a male plug on it and then plugged that to a female plug with a battery charger clamp that attached to the hitch on my boat or whatever trailer I was using. Simple and cured all of my problems. This may not help you, but it’s sure an easy way to make sure you are grounded.

    Boogerbreath
    Bemidji, MN
    Posts: 432
    October 3, 2013 at 9:30 pm #1198339

    BAM! Thanks everyone. I replaced all the fuses inside the cab and under the hood that were light related and it now works!!!! They all looked perfectly fine. Thanks IDO member SHOCKERS for the tip.

    Boogerbreath
    Bemidji, MN
    Posts: 432
    October 3, 2013 at 9:35 pm #1198340

    Thanks John – you had the same idea!

    TheFamousGrouse
    St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 11664
    October 4, 2013 at 2:02 pm #1198442

    For future reference, whenever your chasing a problem that might involve fuses, use a multi-meter to test each one of them as you pull them out.

    If you don’t already have a multi-meter, buy one because as long as you have trailer lights, you’re gonna need one. It’s incredibly useful to get one with the audible tone for a continuity check, so the meter beeps where there’s continuity and that way you don’t have to look down at the meter needle every time and can keep your eyes on what you’re doing.

    I’ve had exactly the same thing happen where the fuse looked good, but was blown or cracked where it wasn’t visible. The multi-meter testing is way faster than trial/error replacing.

    Grouse

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